banzai510(hainz) Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Maybe I ordered a 71 alt and they gave me a Mishibishi alternator with the adapter Cant remember 2 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 You forgot all the corrosion & internally failed glass fuse solder joints in your drawing. Hmm, yeah, I should add that to it, huh? :lol: Maybe I ordered a 71 alt and they gave me a Mishibishi alternator with the adapter Cant remember Where'd you order it from? I'd like to get a spare... 1 Quote Link to comment
Eomund Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 @banzai. I still have the orifinal for my 72 and it's a mitsubishi. I just took mine in and had it rebuilt. Wasn't too bad. If I remember, like $120. This was like 4 years ago 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 15, 2015 Report Share Posted August 15, 2015 This was a long time ago. I just run the common 510 521 35amper in my 521. Last one was about 35$ a year ago from O rileys. seems OK 120$ seems abit much hopefully they replaced everything but if that what its called for with the connector then that's what you have to do 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Hey Hainz, you wouldn't happen to have a part number would you? Thanks in advance. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 18, 2015 Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Posting in this thread so I can find this info later. All those illustrations...are they the same between PL and L 521s? Good stuff, fredges. 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 @flatcat: I'm not sure. '69 was a weird year. I still need to update the illustrations a bit anyway.. 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 OK, so now I'm looking at going with LEDs in the dash... I'm thinking these will work? I like these, as they have the same base as my existing bulbs, But there are two styles, and a huge difference in price. Not sure which I'll get. Maybe I'll just order a couple of each and try them out...Stay tuned... *Also, got all the dash lights working now, even the high-beam indicator. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 One characteristic if a LED lamp is that it draws a lot less current than an incandescent lamp. The alternator uses the current from the IGN lamp to “bootstrap” itself, to start charging. A LED lamp may not supply enough current to do this with some alternators. I would keep the lamp type stock for the IGN light. The OIL lamp it does not matter. The oil pressure switch is just a switch. 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Good to know, thanks! I really just want LEDs for the bulbs that light up the cluster. I figure I'll get white ones, and leave the green covers in, so it's possible to go back to the old bulbs if the next owner (when I die) wants to get all period-correct. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 I used four of these LED lamps. Gauge cluster with stock, used lamps. Gauge cluster with the above LED replacement lamps. Datsun used two different type of lamp holders in the gauge cluster. One, with a metal bayonette base, and the other for lamps that just have wires folded over the crimped end of the lamp. 1 Quote Link to comment
Eomund Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 This was a long time ago. I just run the common 510 521 35amper in my 521. Last one was about 35$ a year ago from O rileys. seems OK 120$ seems abit much hopefully they replaced everything but if that what its called for with the connector then that's what you have to do The connectors are in good shape (thank god), but all the internals were rebuilt, new bearings and all the wiring respooled. Basically its a new unit... Ish 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 One characteristic if a LED lamp is that it draws a lot less current than an incandescent lamp. The alternator uses the current from the IGN lamp to “bootstrap” itself, to start charging. A LED lamp may not supply enough current to do this with some alternators. I would keep the lamp type stock for the IGN light. The OIL lamp it does not matter. The oil pressure switch is just a switch. This is funny but I've heard the same thing. I have replaced my external alternator with a much newer internally regulated alternator and never noticed it but the ign. lite hasn't worked for about three years. Battery is always charged up and no problems. This year I added a volt meter and gong to Canby I noticed it not charging but the next day it was. On a trip about every 6th start up it would charge normally until shut off for gas then no charge. Seems like when the battery gets some use or if the car sits all week it fires up and charges. But if it's been charging and I have just stopped briefly, it senses a fully charged battery and fails to charge. Yes, the two wires to the plug on the back of the alternator were reversed. I switched them and charge light now comes on and charges every time. 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 I used four of these LED lamps. I looked those up, but those won't work for me. Those are the flat glass kind, where the wire goes over the flattened end. My sockets fit the bulbs that look like shell casings with little pegs. But yeah, I'm going to order some for the gauge cluster lights. It's hardly visible at night at all now. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Although the rotor in an alternator is an electromagnet, and requires current to flow throught it to be full strength, it does have steel or iron pole pieces, and it can retain a little residual magnetism. In many cases, if the alternator is spun fast enought it will start charging. This is how a GM "one wire" alternator works. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 That must be it. 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Didn't realize how complicated alternators are, wow! Well, mine must be working, but the IGN light comes on whenever I'm idling or at low rpm. Sometimes if I take a long time between shifting gears it starts to glow. Blip the throttle and it goes out, but driving around town, the light is going on and off all the time. Doesn't bug me. Kinda looks like my truck is alive or something. :D 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 That's common. Make sure your idle is at 750-850 as a slow idle can cause this. Usually it's just tired and new brushes are needed. But all this does is bring it back to 'like new' output which wasn't much to begin with. (28 amps?) A higher output alternator will fix this. I had a '71 PL521 and a friend managed to make me a mount for the driver's side of the block (there's more room) for an alternator. because this would be custom anyway the sky's the limit on what you could use. 1 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 I looked those up, but those won't work for me. Those are the flat glass kind, where the wire goes over the flattened end. My sockets fit the bulbs that look like shell casings with little pegs. But yeah, I'm going to order some for the gauge cluster lights. It's hardly visible at night at all now. You have the sockets that are less common. If I were you I'd just find the other style of sockets. I should have some extra ones just let me know if you're going to go that route. 1 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Tdaaj currently has a whole cluster for sale for $30 with the more common flat style bulbs/sockets. His ad is posted on the facebook 521 registry. You can message him on this site too. 1 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 You may have already read this but here you go. This cluster had the bayonet style sockets that I switched out to the flat style. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/60622-how-to-brighten-your-521-green-gauge-lights-with-leds/ 1 Quote Link to comment
fredges Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Trouble posting from my phone...Put LEDs in the combo meter tonight. Need one more, as i stupidly only ordered three instead of four. You can see it's a world difference, in the before and after photos above!I had to switch the polarity to get them to work, by pulling the sockets out and rotating them 180 degrees. Seems current must flow through in a specific direction?Also, the bulbs I got were a little too tall, but I scraped off one side of the melted "rivet" on the green light covers, and that allowed them to lift up just enough to fit the bulbs. There's no heat from LEDs, so no worries. ...and I removed my aftermarket tach. Truck looks better without it, and I shift by ear and feel. Drove it last night in the dark, and it was perfect. LEDs are just right, not too bright, now I'm able to see the guages with a quick glance, instead of having to put my head through the steering wheel and squint. SAFETY++ 1 Quote Link to comment
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