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itbs on KA24DE


datson4life

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Imma go with the gsxr 1000 itbs and standalone ecu, i got everything i need but i hear i a optical shutter wheel that goes inside the distributor, what is that and where can i get it?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heres a idea of the finished product, this pic is not mine its off google but it what im doing

 

itbs005_zpsgky7crq5.jpg

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The trigger wheel is used when converting to coil on plug ignition and stand alone ECU.

 

DIY Autotune markets stuff for the Megasquirt family of engine controls

Hmmmm maybe its already installed in distributor, i bought a ka swap with the standalone setup, ill check, if not ill order it cause it seems recommended

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You should be able to use just your stock DIst. only extra sensors should be a air water and o2 sensor. Might need a map and i.a.c. but thats it.

I have the air/fuel mix sensor with its tach, i forget the name, and the standalone unit uses a air temp sensor instead of maf, so that's my other questions, what to do with that one?

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Sooo...why?? Just to do it and be different

 

I mean the de is already fuel injection..

For sound and power , gonna up the compression a bit, dyno sheets claim 200hp to wheels with this itb set-up, sohc pistons and 248 cam . Initially wanted to turbo but with all tje surprise spending i had to do, plus a kid in the way, i decided for this route, plus i got all the electronics for it, should all be done with another $500, i hope lol

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I know this is old but let me clear some things up, the optical wheel is for a cam position sensor on a coil on plug setup, it tells the ECU where #1 is so the ECU can make it's timing, you have a physical distributor so that is not needed. If you are just running a stockish motor a full standalone is a huge waste of money. Contact Jim Wolf and have them flash your stock ECU for 400 bucks and invest the money somewhere else, like valve-train. Jim can adjust your air fuel to keep it in spec with the changes you have made. You just have to make sure you do not adjust your distributor too far out that you blow yourself up. 

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I know this is old but let me clear some things up, the optical wheel is for a cam position sensor on a coil on plug setup, it tells the ECU where #1 is so the ECU can make it's timing, you have a physical distributor so that is not needed. If you are just running a stockish motor a full standalone is a huge waste of money. Contact Jim Wolf and have them flash your stock ECU for 400 bucks and invest the money somewhere else, like valve-train. Jim can adjust your air fuel to keep it in spec with the changes you have made. You just have to make sure you do not adjust your distributor too far out that you blow yourself up.

Im learning as i go to play with these standalone, and hoping to learn to tune myself, other than cams yea it will remain pretty much stock, for now, but im putting the standalone to use cause i got it for a good price, next to free

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Is there a sensor to even read the optical wheel and adjust timing? I'm not familiar with the single cam motors. I am very familiar with tuning though. On a N/A motor its pretty easy. Make it so your knock sensor can retard 12 to 15 degrees as a safety measure then advance your timing. log a bunch and adjust your fuel richer around where your standalone pulled timing. if you still knock after you richen up your mix in those spots pull the timing back to where the knock sensor pulled it. Turbo cars are much more difficult. This is a great video explaining the logic behind tuning. 

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