datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Imma go with the gsxr 1000 itbs and standalone ecu, i got everything i need but i hear i a optical shutter wheel that goes inside the distributor, what is that and where can i get it? Heres a idea of the finished product, this pic is not mine its off google but it what im doing Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 This: http://www.amazon.com/Optical-Trigger-Nissan-SR20DET-DIYAutoTune/dp/B005V3FZXS What is it and whats its function and why do i need it, im a newb to this itb stuff but the gsxr or hayabusa itbs seems to be the easiest itb swap for the ka Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 http://m.ebay.com/itm/03-04-SUZUKI-GSXR-1000-THROTTLE-BODIES-FUEL-INJECTORS-OEM-S74-/131548253350?nav=SEARCH Gonna use the stock ka injector location, went thru a few write ups and the results seem positive Quote Link to comment
Trophy24 Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 The trigger wheel is used when converting to coil on plug ignition and stand alone ECU. DIY Autotune markets stuff for the Megasquirt family of engine controls 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 You should be able to use just your stock DIst. only extra sensors should be a air water and o2 sensor. Might need a map and i.a.c. but thats it. Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 The trigger wheel is used when converting to coil on plug ignition and stand alone ECU. DIY Autotune markets stuff for the Megasquirt family of engine controls Hmmmm maybe its already installed in distributor, i bought a ka swap with the standalone setup, ill check, if not ill order it cause it seems recommended Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 You should be able to use just your stock DIst. only extra sensors should be a air water and o2 sensor. Might need a map and i.a.c. but thats it. I have the air/fuel mix sensor with its tach, i forget the name, and the standalone unit uses a air temp sensor instead of maf, so that's my other questions, what to do with that one? Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Sooo...why?? Just to do it and be different I mean the de is already fuel injection.. 1 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Isn't that what tanker is doing with his l18? Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Sooo...why?? Just to do it and be different I mean the de is already fuel injection.. For sound and power , gonna up the compression a bit, dyno sheets claim 200hp to wheels with this itb set-up, sohc pistons and 248 cam . Initially wanted to turbo but with all tje surprise spending i had to do, plus a kid in the way, i decided for this route, plus i got all the electronics for it, should all be done with another $500, i hope lol 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Isn't that what tanker is doing with his l18? Tanker should turbo the l18 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Continued here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/65469-the-rattylowback-to-lifeussdailyka24de-521-thread/page-14?do=findComment&comment=1300685 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted November 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Final result , just missing some clamps in the pic Ill post how i did this setup in the thread linked in the above post, there are only a couple itbs step by step on google but they miss quite a few stuff Quote Link to comment
DrRocks0 Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 I know this is old but let me clear some things up, the optical wheel is for a cam position sensor on a coil on plug setup, it tells the ECU where #1 is so the ECU can make it's timing, you have a physical distributor so that is not needed. If you are just running a stockish motor a full standalone is a huge waste of money. Contact Jim Wolf and have them flash your stock ECU for 400 bucks and invest the money somewhere else, like valve-train. Jim can adjust your air fuel to keep it in spec with the changes you have made. You just have to make sure you do not adjust your distributor too far out that you blow yourself up. 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted December 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 I know this is old but let me clear some things up, the optical wheel is for a cam position sensor on a coil on plug setup, it tells the ECU where #1 is so the ECU can make it's timing, you have a physical distributor so that is not needed. If you are just running a stockish motor a full standalone is a huge waste of money. Contact Jim Wolf and have them flash your stock ECU for 400 bucks and invest the money somewhere else, like valve-train. Jim can adjust your air fuel to keep it in spec with the changes you have made. You just have to make sure you do not adjust your distributor too far out that you blow yourself up. Im learning as i go to play with these standalone, and hoping to learn to tune myself, other than cams yea it will remain pretty much stock, for now, but im putting the standalone to use cause i got it for a good price, next to free Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted December 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 I have the optical wheel installed inside the distributor aswell Quote Link to comment
DrRocks0 Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 Is there a sensor to even read the optical wheel and adjust timing? I'm not familiar with the single cam motors. I am very familiar with tuning though. On a N/A motor its pretty easy. Make it so your knock sensor can retard 12 to 15 degrees as a safety measure then advance your timing. log a bunch and adjust your fuel richer around where your standalone pulled timing. if you still knock after you richen up your mix in those spots pull the timing back to where the knock sensor pulled it. Turbo cars are much more difficult. This is a great video explaining the logic behind tuning. 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted December 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 Thanks dude, i have the plug and play setup, and its a dual cam ka, the stock harness plugs right into the standalone Quote Link to comment
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