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Seattle mechanic to do suspension work on 1980 720 motorhome?


kb25t17

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I need a reference for a good but reasonably priced shop in the Seattle area to work on my 1980 720 suspension.  Not a lot of miles on it, only 87K and its never been in an accident but after 35 years the rubber in the bushings is not what it should be and there is too much sway going on. I can get an RV shop to handle the stuff in the rear area if need be since it is not standard to a 720. The 1980 is an odd ball 720 with unique things about it compared to some other years. I do have a reference repair manual that shows those differences but does not state part numbers. Would appreciate any reference materials to have on hand that does show part numbers for this year and model.

 

Its a motorhome which means it needs a tall door and roof to fit inside a garage.  I don't have a place to work on it myself plus I have a lousy back. I am mechanically inclined but it is not going to be a DIY project I can take on.

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The only difference with the '80 is the wiring and the engine. The '80 to mid '82 had the same suspension and brakes. Probably badly needs new shocks and the rubber bushings on the front sway bar replaced.

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Let the flaming begin... Have you thought about a Nissan Dealer? We just rebuilt the front end on a cust 720, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, bushings, alignment, granted using aftermarket parts but we were still cheaper or equal to the other shops in area, Schwab, Midas.. etc. If its a NV dealer (not all are) they will have the racks and doors big enough for:

 

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The only difference with the '80 is the wiring and the engine. The '80 to mid '82 had the same suspension and brakes. Probably badly needs new shocks and the rubber bushings on the front sway bar replaced.

Of course it needs new shocks and rubber bushings. Would I have asked for a recommendation to a shop that does suspension work for another reason ;)

 

and the air conditioner and how its controlled. The climate control panel is unique to the 1979.5 and 1980. There is no on/off switch as such. Its all done by the combinations of positions of the control levers. Of course there is also no tilt steering wheel available...and it goes on and on with other small stuff.

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I think you can safely assume that your suspension doesn't differ in any significant manner from stock 720 2wd for your year. The rears usually got an extra leaf in the spring pack and dually adapters on the stock axle. The front shouldn't have changed at all. Any shop that can fit your truck can fix it. The suspension is nothing special. I'm sure there are some great datsun mechanics in the Seattle area, since the PNW is the datsun capital it seems, but even your local Midas could handle it. The work is bitchy, but not difficult. Just re-ask the original question to bring your thread back on topic.

 

Search the internet for a factory service manual for a truck of your year. It will be 95% correct for engine, trans, suspension; basically most everything from the cab forward.

 

I would guess Mike was referring to significant differences, not minutia. Nothing suspension or brake changed from the introduction of the 720 until 1983. The weird "switchless" ac setup stayed that way though the entire run of the chassis.

 

I would also guess that by mentioning the sway bar bushings and shocks, he was trying to ensure that you weren't just getting the big plain obvious control arm and strut rod bushings replaced.

 

Mike - feel free to tell me to shut my trap if I'm putting words in your mouth. :)

 

Anyhow, welcome to Ratsun. It's a great place, in spite of what appears to have been a bad first impression for you. Post pics, we are pic whores. Stick around, the help you need will show up.

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I was saying that the high wear items that loose their ability to control the ride quality are... the shocks, perhaps the rubber bushings on the front sway bar. But you don't need a suspension shop to turn nuts to change these was my point.

 

If this camper ran fine and lost it's stability it's likely the shocks but if it's always been tippy then maybe it needs more spring. If this is a true camper truck the suspension will already be stiff enough for the job. If a 2wd home conversion, maybe not. The Cab/Chassis option started using dual rear wheels after Oct '82. Your engine tag, located under the pass side hood hinge on the inner fender should begin with EHL 720 ??? The E signifies the Cab/Chassis option sold without a box and used by motor home conversion shops or commercial cube vans. Without the E it's a 2wd spring on the back.

 

 

...and some people can't resist telling everyone about their back injuries thinking others don't know anything about them. I get it. I also stopped offering to lift things and ask for help.

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Mike is not being a Dick but when owning Datsuns its a DO it your self. Otherwise your just going to get reamed elsewhere as most people dont work on old cars. and know them as people here but you got to do it your self.

 

Even if you own a mint 73 Mercedes240D the Mercedes Dealer dont want YOU!!!!

 

 

 

Your ?:Of course it needs new shocks and rubber bushings. Would I have asked for a recommendation to a shop that does suspension work for another reason????????????

 

get under the truck and change this simple thing first. Get soem KYBs MomoMax or Gas adjust and see what happens

Half hour job or hour at the most in the parking lot if you have a jack.

 

then get back to us

My back is bad also.

 

If your back is that bad buy a new camper rig as this rig will just be proplems later as it is old and things just wear. I have a 71 521 and it alwasy needs work and yours will too as it reachs the 35-40 yr mark

 

On the shock I mention dont cut the plastic zip ty holding it together. as you need the shock compressed bushings on then month the lower part cut the strap and poit it up to the hole where the top goes otherwise your BACK will not compress that shock!!!!!!!!!! I know!!

 

 

 

Midas Walts can change the shock even Les Schab has the MOMmax will fix this

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Please pay attention. I AM PHYSICALLY DISABLED!! I have told you this 3 times now. Don't judge what I ought to be doing based on what you are capable of doing.

 

Quit giving me a bad time about asking for a lead to a reliable person to assist me with task I am not longer physically able to do. When a person asks you for a specific piece of information it is not necessary to give them a course in DIY repairs when they can't do it. If I could do it I would not have asked the question. I have lots of repair manuals. I have the skills needed but I no longer have the physical ability to do it all. I can accept this, I have no choice but to accept it.

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Thanks Banzai510, sometimes I do use Les Schwab for tire stuff although I prefer my local Firestone dealer over them. But I am not looking for a chain where they are hiring low wage, entry level mechanics. I am looking for a reference to a smaller sized local shop run by an experienced mechanic who loves old Datsuns. It is by now obvious that no one in this forum who is currently active knows of any in the Seattle area.

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There was a guy in Seattle that worked on 510s but he wanted $300 to do my sidedraft carbs and I learned it myself and just never went back.Learned everything

 

shocks I would think after a new hire low wage kid did few he is good at it as it is basic to change a Datsun shock exp a truck. I only changed a few myself. Pretty basic.

 

Rockauto has those overload shocks with a coil spring on them. I never tried them. Maybe this would help.or make it worse

But remind you Les Schwab(mayeb others) will usually not install your own parts that you bring to them it has to be BOUGHT$$$ thru them. otherwise they say they wont garentee them (Bullshit)

 

 

We do help each other out on here but for the most part its the hardcore people that been on here for years.

Newcommers we are leary(at least I am) as once they get the vehicle fixed(sell for more) they are never seen again. Thats why we tell you how to do it. If motivated then youll get it done. If medical issues. then best get soembody you trust do it and pay them.

 

On Trucks Datzenmike is the master but hes not going to do it for you.

 

I have givenparts and help to many people over the years then only to get dissapointed.

 

Pumpkin on here was a guy that would help out alot but hes too has dissapeared.Common with Datsun people sometimes. Just the way it is.

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There was a guy in Seattle that worked on 510s but he wanted $300 to do my sidedraft carbs and I learned it myself and just never went back.Learned everything

 

shocks I would think after a new hire low wage kid did few he is good at it as it is basic to change a Datsun shock exp a truck. I only changed a few myself. Pretty basic.

 

Rockauto has those overload shocks with a coil spring on them. I never tried them. Maybe this would help.or make it worse

But remind you Les Schwab(mayeb others) will usually not install your own parts that you bring to them it has to be BOUGHT$$$ thru them. otherwise they say they wont garentee them (Bullshit)

 

 

We do help each other out on here but for the most part its the hardcore people that been on here for years.

Newcommers we are leary(at least I am) as once they get the vehicle fixed(sell for more) they are never seen again. Thats why we tell you how to do it. If motivated then youll get it done. If medical issues. then best get soembody you trust do it and pay them.

 

On Trucks Datzenmike is the master but hes not going to do it for you.

 

I have givenparts and help to many people over the years then only to get dissapointed.

 

Pumpkin on here was a guy that would help out alot but hes too has dissapeared.Common with Datsun people sometimes. Just the way it is.

I will likely be keeping my Datsun for a great many years. It is not just outfitted for transportation it is also my studio space work space and part time home. I have a lot more money and time invested into it other than just the mechanics of the truck as it is a commercially built motorhome powered by a Datsun 720

 

From a sociological and psychological perspective it is amazing what a paranoia tempest in a teapot a simple question about looking for a reputable repair shop has turned out to be among the long time members of this group. Get over it, this is not any kind of a weird question, you are not under attack. I am not out to get you or take advantage of you. This is not about YOU or your fellow members, you don't have to put up all these walls of defense over nothing. I just wanted the name of a reputable repair shop. You are the people who are attacking me, and for what? This kind of response to my thread serves no purpose. All I did was ask a very simple and basic question. If you didn't have the answer there was never any need to respond to my question. Or maybe you are just so bored out of your skulls that you are creating controversy where it does not exist simply to have something to post about? Quit trying to fabricate something out of nothing because nothing is what it is.

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Don't know how much of a drive it is for you to bremerton? I had these guys do the shocks and a fuel pump on my motorhome.

 

http://www.peninsulafleetservices.com

 

Labor costs were good. Can't say they specialize in Nissans at all, but they are right next to the Bremerton Nissan dealer....

 

I had a 1979 Datsun 620 mini motorhome with the Chinook shell. Brakes were terrible!!! Have you thought about upgrading the brakes at all? I believe late model D21 vented disks can be fit by switching spindles and hubs? Something to think about.....

 

The swaying problem you mentioned in your first post can be made better by having a rear sway bar installed. The bigger the better...

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Don't know how much of a drive it is for you to bremerton? I had these guys do the shocks and a fuel pump on my motorhome.

 

http://www.peninsulafleetservices.com

 

Labor costs were good. Can't say they specialize in Nissans at all, but they are right next to the Bremerton Nissan dealer....

 

I had a 1979 Datsun 620 mini motorhome with the Chinook shell. Brakes were terrible!!! Have you thought about upgrading the brakes at all? I believe late model D21 vented disks can be fit by switching spindles and hubs? Something to think about.....

 

The swaying problem you mentioned in your first post can be made better by having a rear sway bar installed. The bigger the better...

Thanks for the lead.  Its pretty far away for me travel time wise but I will keep it in mind.

 

The brakes on my rig have plenty of wear left on them. But when they need replacing i will certainly be considering an upgrade. I will have a local RV shop doing the rear end suspension. They did an upgrade for another Nissan Sunrader last year and it turned out nicely. Saw that one being sold on craigslist and they talked about the recent upgrade to the rear suspension so I shot an email off to the couple and found out more about it and what parts they used and where they had it done. Its a good independent RV shop rather than an RV dealer but its not located close to me. I don't need a specialist for the front end work since its just standard components. Guess I will just have to keep my eyes open for some local 720s and ask who the owners are going to. Quite a few vintage car specialist around in this immediate area, Volvos, BMW, VW but so far I have not seen any for Nissans.

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I just finished a big brake upgrade on my 4x4 720. 620turbo is right about the knuckle and hub being needed. I believe 84 and up will work perfectly. The rest of the details are here if you're interested - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/66968-720-brake-upgrade/.

 

Upgrading to a 1 inch master cylinder would likely help pedal feel, but I haven't gotten to that yet. The brakes are working really well though. I can lock up my 31x10.5 which wasn't possible for me before.

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I just finished a big brake upgrade on my 4x4 720. 620turbo is right about the knuckle and hub being needed. I believe 84 and up will work perfectly. The rest of the details are here if you're interested - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/66968-720-brake-upgrade/.

 

Upgrading to a 1 inch master cylinder would likely help pedal feel, but I haven't gotten to that yet. The brakes are working really well though. I can lock up my 31x10.5 which wasn't possible for me before.

Get back to me in a couple of years with how well it works out for you. Of course by then you will have made further modifications as it is your nature to do so ;)   Not a criticism, just saying you are not finished with the project and likely never will be which is not a bad thing. Me...I don't want to be doing constant tinkering on cars.

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It's a well documented 'experiment' to go from the small 620 calipers and single disc to the late 720 and D21 huge caliper and larger diameter vented rotors. Nothing custom or home made, all bolt in original parts from a newer year truck.

'77-'79 620 and '80-'82 720 front brakes.

 

datsunproject242.jpg

 

 

 

D-21 caliper and rotor on 620 truck

 

026.jpg

 

Incredible stopping power and an almost impossible amount of fade resistance. The KC 620 is about 2,750 pounds, the 720 2wd  about 3,000 pounds, 4wd about 3,500 pounds. The D-21 is even heavier.

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The fact that I never asked for advice on brakes and don't even need to do work on my brakes as they were recently replaced does not stop any of you from taking this thread over to talk about YOU and your projects.

 

Wow are you guys are really bored is all I can say about that. Go work on your Datsuns...go take them for a drive. Its summer time, enjoy it while it last instead of wasting time answering questions that were not even asked and giving advice that is not even needed.

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The fact that I never asked for advice on brakes and don't even need to do work on my brakes as they were recently replaced does not stop any of you from taking this thread over to talk about YOU and your projects.

 

Wow are you guys are really bored is all I can say about that. Go work on your Datsuns...go take them for a drive. Its summer time, enjoy it while it last instead of wasting time answering questions that were not even asked and giving advice that is not even needed.

 

 

The brakes on my rig have plenty of wear left on them. But when they need replacing i will certainly be considering an upgrade.

 

dafuq?

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KYB MONO MAX  is a good shock

 

 

Have you thought about a Nissan Dealer? We just rebuilt the front end on a cust 720, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, bushings, alignment, granted using aftermarket parts but we were still cheaper or equal to the other shops in area, Schwab, Midas.. etc. If its a NV dealer (not all are) they will have the racks and doors big enough for:

 

 

I think you can safely assume that your suspension doesn't differ in any significant manner from stock 720 2wd for your year. The rears usually got an extra leaf in the spring pack and dually adapters on the stock axle. The front shouldn't have changed at all. Any shop that can fit your truck can fix it. The suspension is nothing special. I'm sure there are some great datsun mechanics in the Seattle area, since the PNW is the datsun capital it seems, but even your local Midas could handle it. The work is bitchy, but not difficult. Just re-ask the original question to bring your thread back on topic.

 

 

 

I would also guess that by mentioning the sway bar bushings and shocks, he was trying to ensure that you weren't just getting the big plain obvious control arm and strut rod bushings replaced.

 

 

get under the truck and change this simple thing first. Get soem KYBs MomoMax or Gas adjust and see what happens

Half hour job or hour at the most in the parking lot if you have a jack.

 

On the shock I mention dont cut the plastic zip ty holding it together. as you need the shock compressed bushings on then month the lower part cut the strap and poit it up to the hole where the top goes otherwise your BACK will not compress that shock!!!!!!!!!! I know!!

 

Midas Walts can change the shock even Les Schab has the MOMmax will fix this

 

 

Les Schwab/Midas

 

Don't know how much of a drive it is for you to bremerton? I had these guys do the shocks and a fuel pump on my motorhome.

 

http://www.peninsulafleetservices.com

 

Labor costs were good. Can't say they specialize in Nissans at all, but they are right next to the Bremerton Nissan dealer....

 

I had a 1979 Datsun 620 mini motorhome with the Chinook shell. Brakes were terrible!!! Have you thought about upgrading the brakes at all? I believe late model D21 vented disks can be fit by switching spindles and hubs? Something to think about.....

 

The swaying problem you mentioned in your first post can be made better by having a rear sway bar installed. The bigger the better...

 

 

I was saying that the high wear items that loose their ability to control the ride quality are... the shocks, perhaps the rubber bushings on the front sway bar. But you don't need a suspension shop to turn nuts to change these was my point.

 

If this camper ran fine and lost it's stability it's likely the shocks but if it's always been tippy then maybe it needs more spring. If this is a true camper truck the suspension will already be stiff enough for the job. If a 2wd home conversion, maybe not. The Cab/Chassis option started using dual rear wheels after Oct '82. Your engine tag, located under the pass side hood hinge on the inner fender should begin with EHL 720 ??? The E signifies the Cab/Chassis option sold without a box and used by motor home conversion shops or commercial cube vans. Without the E it's a 2wd spring on the back.

 

 

All the above were answers to your question... basically it isn't rocket science to change some shocks or add a rear sway bar... any shop (not just those mentioned) can do this. You never replied about the engine tag even. If you can ID your truck as a regular 2wd with a camper on it then proper springs that are stiffer would be a good option. Make a decision what you want done and take it to one of the above mentioned places and tell them to do it.

 

Any extra info about brakes or suspension is just enthusiastic people trying to help a fellow 720 owner. This is what a forum is, it helps you and the information helps anyone else that reads this thread even years from now.  So chill out, take a pain med read through this again because your answer is there, simply value added.

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