DGEV 32/36 electric choke Qs...

[ByStickel]

I'm trying to figure out my DGEV on an L20B. I just read that the choke should be closed as a default, so I assume that as the temp sensor increases voltage, the spring in the choke warms up and opens the choke? Is that right?

 

And does anybody have any idea why my temp gauge would begin to register the temp increase during start-up, only to return to full cold?  I figure that, even if the rest of the wiring for the electric choke is good, that glitch could be a big problem for proper carb tuning.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[kelowg]

Voltage reg on back of gauge cluster acting up. Fuel gauge acting up too? Both are supplied by it. Choke is independent of engine temp. U adj choke housing and 12 hot heats it up to open.

[datzenmike]

I'm trying to figure out my DGEV on an L20B. I just read that the choke should be closed as a default, so I assume that as the temp sensor increases voltage, the spring in the choke warms up and opens the choke? Is that right?

When the engine cools down enough, or over night, (certainly in very cold weather) the choke coil will constrict or curl up tightly and try to close the choke. I say, try to close the choke, because the closed throttle prevents full closure. When starting a cold engine you must first depress the gas pedal once or twice. As soon as the throttle is opened the choke snaps closed. A secondary feature of the choke is a fast idle cam that drops in place and holds the throttle slightly open to increase the RPMs and speed warm up. It also makes cold driving easier. Start the engine.

 

Once started the choke heater relay sends current to the choke heater which warms the cold and tightly coiled choke. As it warms it unwinds and the choke opens. On the stock Hitachi carb this is timed to be about 8 minutes. If engine was recently run and still partly warm this will be less, if extremely cold out it will take longer. I have no idea what the weber is designed for but likely close and the back of the choke can be loosened and turned to tighten the coil or relax it to increase or decrease the warm up time. As the choke warms and begins the open, the fast idle can is also released so that normal idle is attained.

 

 

 

And does anybody have any idea why my temp gauge would begin to register the temp increase during start-up, only to return to full cold?  I figure that, even if the rest of the wiring for the electric choke is good, that glitch could be a big problem for proper carb tuning.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

By the description the temp gauge is working properly but then the connection or wire comes loose and the gauge drops. Find the temp sender on the front of the thermostat housing just below the rad hose. It will have a single Yellow/White stripe wire and just pushes on to the sender. Have a care you don't pull the end off, but check that the connection is clean and snug. 

[ByStickel]

TheWeber DGEV is the electric choke model, and there's no connection at all between the choke and the throttle linkage. I'm just trying to make sure I know what it's supposed to do before diving into the fix.

 

I asked about the temp sensor and if it increased voltage with warmer water temps, so that I can check for that at the elec choke wire in the stock harness. For all I know, it could be the exact opposite, so , I ask.

 

Honestly, I don't know why it would work, because its a single wire and i don't think the carb is grounded anyway...

 

I have found a manual choke conversion, just in case.

[datzenmike]

Not that familiar with the weber. Assumed it had a fast idle set up like most other carbs.

 

 

 

The temp sender for the gauge in the dash has nothing to do with the choke. Two separate things.

 

The choke is grounded through the body of the carb and through the mounting bolts to the intake manifold and to the head and block. It is grounded. The choke heater has 12 volts to it at all times that the engine is running.

 

The sender is a path to ground so the resistance decreases with warmth causing the gauge to read higher. If you take the sender wire off and touch it to the block the gauge will read full hot. In operation, power flows through the gauge to the sender and to ground.

[datsunaholic]

If your weber has no connection between the choke and the fast idle cam, you're missing pieces.  Plus there should be a rod to open the choke when the throttle is opened, regardless of auto-choke heating.

 

Every DGEV (electric choke) 32/36 I've owned had them.

 

The choke heater voltage doesn't change with engine temp.  It's full voltage any time the alternator is charging (essentially, any time the engine is running and the alternator works).

[banzai510(hainz)]

I'm trying to figure out my DGEV on an L20B. I just read that the choke should be closed as a default, so I assume that as the temp sensor increases voltage, the spring in the choke warms up and opens the choke?

 

WHAT!!!!!!!!!?

 

 

If you have a later model Datsun they have a wire that would give voltage to the carb choke and anti desiel selinoid. Look there first.

 

the gas gauge fuel gauge its the Volt reg in back of the instrument panel that supplies this and has nothing to do with the Carb choke

[ByStickel]

Thanks, mike.

 

Yeah, what I wanted to know was if the lead to the electric choke was 'smart' and adjusted according to water temp, or if it worked another way. (I tried looking at the wiring diagrams I had, but wagons can be a mystery, as far as wiring)

 

I'll look for missing parts, but I removed the top of the carb for cleaning and all I had to do is to remove the tiny e-clip on the link from the elec choke assy. No connection to the throttle linkage.

[Doctor510]

Thanks, mike.

 

Yeah, what I wanted to know was if the lead to the electric choke was 'smart' and adjusted according to water temp, or if it worked another way. (I tried looking at the wiring diagrams I had, but wagons can be a mystery, as far as wiring)

 

I'll look for missing parts, but I removed the top of the carb for cleaning and all I had to do is to remove the tiny e-clip on the link from the elec choke assy. No connection to the throttle linkage.

YES there should be a fast idle rod there. was the carb new or used when you got it?  Wire the electric choke spade connector to a switched 12V source, NOT A CONSTANT 12V source.  There is no mystery, just that your original car came with a manual choke.  BTW, it is not related to engine water temp in any way!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

YES there should be a fast idle rod there. was the carb new or used when you got it? 

He's probably just not familiar with the carb and he doesn't know where to look for it.

 

The linkage rod is not attached to the choke plate shaft. It connects further down stream.

[ByStickel]

Y'all are correct. The car isn;t right here for me to look at, so I have to go on a pretty poor memory. Yes, there is a rod that opens the choke approximately 1/3 of the way at WOT.

 

The carb is at least 20 years old, and I believe I've finally gotten it clean, but still have work to do.

 

I need to either diagnose the missing 12V in the choke circuit or look for a manual conversion.

 

Thanks for the help!

[Doctor510]

Is there an electric choke unit mounted to the carb?

 

If so, find a switched 12V wire (one that gets hot <electrically> when you turn on the ign switch).

[ByStickel]

The electric choke assembly is there. I hooked it to the electric choke circuit in the harness, but it doesn't have power. I need to sort that.

 

I'm just kinda wiped out from all the other problems, both mechanical and electrical. I'll recover, and fix it all, eventually.

[kelowg]

Any switched ign 12 volt hot well work. Choke needs power whenever engine running.

[datzenmike]

What vehicle? 620?

 

Easiest thing? Splice the blue choke heater wire to the Red idle cut solenoid wire. It's ON when the key is ON. And it right there beside the choke.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if this is a later 620 it should have a electric wire for the stock carb. then use it on the weber.

 

On my 521 which had a wire I just daisey chain the wire from the anti desiel selinoid to the choke wire.

Means I stuck 2 wires in the female spade connector then when to the choke

 

I went to a new Manual choke weber carb later so now I have desieling proplems but managable

[ByStickel]

It's a '72 510 wagon. I do have a '78 620, which may have confused some. It does have a wire for the electric choke, which may have only been on the later cars (?), but, right now, it's dead.

 

First, I'll just run a jumper to it to see how it works.

 

While it was down, I got to looking at everything that was old/wrong with the front of the engine, so most of that is coming apart and being redone. I may get to fire it back up, tomorrow.

 

Thanks.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

OH dude that car is fucking awesome!!!!!!!!!! garage that sucker

 

there is a choke relay that will power that wire but dont know what years its started comming out exactly My 72 521 has a wire but truck was really a lte 71 build date.

 

this is a ez fix dont hack this car up

 

nice color also

 

get a manual with a wire diagram this is a EZ fix kkep it stock wiring No hacks

 

 

hget this car fixed and store it drive that 620 as a daily

[Lockleaf]

get this car fixed and drive it daily

^^^ fixed it

[banzai510(hainz)]

Lock you fixed it? what was  the fix?

Id put the stock wheels back on and just save it as is as it would but worth more

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Lock you fixed it? what was  the fix?

 

Lost in translation...

[Lockleaf]

Cars are meant to be driven. Who gives a damn that stored it would be worth more. I have never believed that cars are cool as noisy art. I hate trailer queens. I am a fan of the driven car is all.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Really I was hoping he do a KA SR swap then sell it for less cause he had no more money to complete or loses interest. Wife /GF pregnant. Loses job ect...

 

If cant figure out a elelctric choke then hope the ABOVE isnt going to be true.

 

Lots of beaters in woods still to be saved and driven daily.