Z struts for B210

[Sierra]

I got this from a friend. Don't know what year are they. Only thing I know is they are from an early Z.

Can anyone ID them? Are this an option to lower and upgrade brakes on my B210.

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

No, I don't think these can be used. I believe the strut spindle angle is totally wrong on those. You want '79 and up 280zx struts for this. Bigger and better caliper and a larger vented rotors. If available, another viable alternative (and likely cheaper because no one thinks to use them) is the '81-'84 Maxima front struts. Also a humongous caliper and vented rotors.

[datsunfreak]

Don't know what year are they. Only thing I know is they are from an early Z.

Can anyone ID them?

 

You did. Early Z. The 70-78 Zs basically all use the same struts/brakes.

 

No, I don't think these can be used. I believe the strut spindle angle is totally wrong on those. 

 

What he said. No good to anyone but another S30 owner. 

[Sierra]

Double Crap!

Anywho... Thanks guys.

It least I know now that I can use also de 81-84 Maximas

[datzenmike]

The larger caliper will require more fluid from the master cylinder to move it. The stock B-210 master is only 3/4" whereas the zx and Maxima masters are 15/16". A 3/4 will have to travel farther to make up for the smaller size and will feel mushy. The B-210 has a nice brake booster so if available, get the '79-'81 zx 15/16" master.

[Sierra]

Just for shits n giggles.

Any coilovers kits that will do the lowering job at a fairly decent price? Or should I just stick with the original idea?

[datzenmike]

Cut the spring perch off and grind away all the weld so the strut tube is smooth. Any strut even the B-210. If you find any zx struts do this and slide the B-210 lower perch and coil spring on. Use a split collar under to support the perch from sliding. You can set the spring at any height you like. 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17682-my-island-74-710/page-16

 

 

 

Well Canby's over so no money but long days and plenty of time for working on the girls. (and ratsun down) Mrs. d loves the ride and handling of my goon. It's lowered on Maxima struts, not that they handle any better, but I kept the 710 spring on them and I cut one coil off which raised the spring rate from around 100 lbs per inch to near 150. To increase the damping I replaced the strut oil, which looks like water it's so thin, to 20W motorcycle fork oil. The parts goon I have is a '77 with the newer brakes than the wedge shaped pads on the '74 so I'll mod these struts and keep the newer '77 calipers. Then just swap them in already prepared.

The sedan is very high in the front... looks like someone has taken the motor out. Perhaps the back has settled slightly and made it look worse but at any rate the front wheels are cambered out at the top and are noticeable to look at. Lowering a few inches should bring them in slightly too. As with the goon I will add an extra leaf at the back to firm the rear to match.

So... stock length struts and brakes, (although '77 instead of the '74s) adjustable ride height, increase spring rate, increased dampening... and I hope to do this for under $30.


My contraption for compressing the spring... Somewhat easier if you remove the caliper.



Pail of dirt and water for counter weight...





Loosen and remove the gland nut..





Slide the gland nut up and off. Be sure the strut is clean and free of burrs as there is a seal on the underside.



The insides will not come out easily unless you remove the O ring just below the threads inside the tube. I use a dental pick for this. Go easy on it and you can re-use it.





Gland nut underside and O ring.



Have a container handy to catch any oil. Only this much came out of two struts. I used about 2/3 liter to refill the Maxima struts. The FSM suggests about 325cc to fill one, so this seemed like quite a bit less to me. One of the struts could easily be compressed with light pressure before I took it apart. Maybe it was low. I do know that with 20W oil in them they were extremely firm to compress and open by hand requiring a minute or more to do so.





Lift the strut damper assy up and out. It looks like this..



Insides pulled out. Store all internal parts carefully in a clean place.




Trim around the top of the weld holding the lower spring perch.



Hammer loose and slip off the end of the strut.



I used a 6" angle grinder to remove the weld.



When smoothed down it should look like this and will allow the lower spring perch to slide lower down the strut tube.



As noted, the calipers should be removed first to make handling easier. I removed them last and polished the rotors, they are in good shape but the pads are really well worn and need replacing.

Here are the finished 710 struts needing only new oil. Instead of $17 Bellray fork oil I'm going with cheaper ATF to try it. It's also full of anti foam and rust inhibitors and somewhere between 15 and 20 weight I think. The last item are a set of $20 split collars to make these struts fully height adjustable.



As this car will be driven by my wife and she is unlikely to be using the full suspension travel and because the spring rate will be increased by 50% and the damping returned to like new, (or firmer) it's unlikely that lowering it 2-3" is going to bottom out the strut.

More as I continue.
.

 
 

 

Well cleaned the '77 struts and painted them and the coils black. Swapped the calipers on after dismantling the pads and cleaning everything including the surface rust from the rotors. Now have to find my pickle fork.