r0p0doe Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 So I have a gear reduction starter in my 510 I just replaced because it wouldn't fire up everytime, most of the time it worked fine and would turn over but when it doesn't it just clicks and clicks with no turning of the gear inside. Also sometimes when I go to start it, it turns over and gives a loud clunk which im guessing is the gears slipping but I checked my flywheel and the teeth look fine. So back to today, I go to my car to take off for lunch and all I get is a click and no turn over. I looked at a few threads and some say it could possibly be a bad ground or the relay on my ignition could be no good but I have no way to check any of this right now, so here is a pic of how I have it connected let me know what I may have done wrong or could possibly be the problem. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Probably your ignition switch. The power to activate the solenoid goes through the switch. Try jumping the starter with a screwdriver. If it works it's probably your switch. My dad put in an independent switch because the ignition switch was killing starters and would go back in a week. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Get a starter relay and mount it on the firewall near the starter. Search, "VW hot start". I have several if you cannot find one. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Forty five year old wiring. Get a meter and pull the solenoid wire off the starter. Bet only 6 to 8 volts is getting to it. My 710 had intermittent start and that was the cause. I used that weak signal to power a relay with 12 volts directly from the battery.... never once has failed to turn over since. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 rock auto has new switches also. or find a spare andf unplug the org to the new on in your hand and get a screw driver to turn the slot. if it works then it was the switch if not then the wire resisitance is too much and I would use a blk box light relay its small and can hide it better and look more professional. I did my 521 with a Ford Selinoid and looks tacky as its so big and looks horible 1 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 rock auto has new switches also. or find a spare andf unplug the org to the new on in your hand and get a screw driver to turn the slot. if it works then it was the switch if not then the wire resisitance is too much and I would use a blk box light relay its small and can hide it better and look more professional. I did my 521 with a Ford Selinoid and looks tacky as its so big and looks horible The one I ordered from them should be here today :) Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 So I couldn't wait for the one I ordered from rock auto to get here yesterday because I didn't want to wait another day and deal with the hassle of starting it so I went over to napa and got one for a 280zx which is the same on the 510, slapped it in and still the same problem clicks but no turning over of the motor. The solenoid on the starter is good and I can get my car to turn over from the starter, so I started to trace the problem to see where I'm losing power at and I noticed this... This may be part of the issue, I tried shortening the yellow wire to the starter that would get it to turn over if it was working properly but that didn't help at all. Next step is getting a volt meter and finding out where I'm losing power at so I can solve this problem asap Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 usually when the contacks have arched(burnt) they have a higher resisitance that splice isnt stock so soembody rigged something before. soembody had a adress for vintage connectors or something. You could try to sand inside of the contacks (somehow) to get a btter resistance reading. closer to a short. The better the meter you shold be able to detect a ahigher resisitance You can pull those pins out. I use one side of a tweezer to unlock the tab then use the wire to pull it out. Take photos and record what wire goes where 1 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 usually when the contacks have arched(burnt) they have a higher resisitance that splice isnt stock so soembody rigged something before. soembody had a adress for vintage connectors or something. You could try to sand inside of the contacks (somehow) to get a btter resistance reading. closer to a short. The better the meter you shold be able to detect a ahigher resisitance You can pull those pins out. I use one side of a tweezer to unlock the tab then use the wire to pull it out. Take photos and record what wire goes where Thats splice may have been for a killswitch or something that I noticed was tucked up under the dash when I bought it a few yrs back before I got it runnig. There was actually a bunch of funky rigged stuff done on the car I did away with. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Eletrical gremlin strikes again, car wouldn't start this morning even rigging it at the starter. Didn't have time to dig into before work so I left it and will check it out some more later on today, gunna start with my battery and work my way up... Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 So after work I decided to get a lil more in depth into the problem so I yanked my starter and battery to get tested. Battery checked out good but the starter I got last week failed, guess they give you a lifetime warranty for a reason. So I got a new one slapped it in and it fired right up, I will still adress the fried wires I got going on it's only a matter of time till that gives 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 No, they give you a lifetime warranty to entice you to buy their crappy 3rd-world country "rebuilt" (otherwords, cleaned and painted silver) starters and alternators. Which have around a 35% DOA rate. 3 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 No, they give you a lifetime warranty to entice you to buy their crappy 3rd-world country "rebuilt" (otherwords, cleaned and painted silver) starters and alternators. Which have around a 35% DOA rate. I bought it because it was a gear reduction, I didn't remember it had a lifetime warranty until I took it to get tested. I'm going to look into getting a starter elsewhere I'm not going to rest on this one lasting as long as it "should"... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Nissan from the Dealer+ now expensive http://tsimportedautomotive.com/gearreductionstarters.html or find a place that rebuilds them with new parts locally some just wear out . I had some till the thing just starts separating apart 1 Quote Link to comment
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