280zx Parts on a 510?

[jayoop]

Hey guys, quick question! A friend of mine is willing to part some of his "extra" parts off of an "extra" 280zx that's been sitting in his yard for a while (not complete, but close). I took the wheels, struts, brakes, and rotors already. What else should I look to snag off of the car that would fit on my 510 without a lot of modification? There is no master cylinder and the rear suspension is still intact along with the transmission, etc. any help is appreciated! Also, I noticed the differential is still on the car but am unsure what the ratio is. Thanks in advance!

[q-tip]

You can use the rear control arms and brakes but it increases the track width in the rear and requires that you use positive offset wheels. Tranny might be useful for someone. The rear diff I think is an r200 in the zx so it won't fit a 510 without modifications.

[jayoop]

Thanks Q!

[datzenmike]

The zx had a 4 speed and a five speed option through '79. From '80 on only 5 speeds were available as standard equipment. I would pass on the 5 speed if this is a turbo zx. The '79 5 speed is a mid ratio while the '80-'83 is a close ratio box. 

 

While all years of zx have the desirable struts and front brakes only the '82-'83 had the desirable rear brake calipers. Oddly enough the '79-'81 masters had the vertical mount bolt holes that will bolt to a 510, while the '82-'83 masers were horizontal mount. Both masters were 15/16".

 

The '79 5 speed option zx had a 3.354 R-180 diff.

The '79 4 speed came in R-180 with an R-200 on the 2+2

 

All '80 and on (non turbo) 5 speeds were 3.90 and R-200

 

All zx non turbo automatics were R-180 and 3.545

All zx turbo automatics were R-200 and 3.545

 

 

 

All non turbo cars used an EI distributor. Grab it and sell to a 240/260 and early 280z owner.

 

'81-'83 non turbo used flattop 86mm L series pistons. Grab and sell to four banger owner.

 

Turbo zx engines have the desirable high strength head bolts. Grab and sell to four banger owner with head gasket issues.

 

 

 

Probably easier for you to find out what year this car is.

[q-tip]

^and what Mike said.

[freekwonder]

You can use the rear control arms and brakes but it increases the track width in the rear and requires that you use positive offset wheels. Tranny might be useful for someone. The rear diff I think is an r200 in the zx so it won't fit a 510 without modifications.

 

Plus with the rear control arms you will have to run coilovers which are shorter than 510 struts. And you will need a way to adjust toe/camber since that gets messed up. AT least with the 79-81 zx stuff I have on my car.  Not sure about the 82-83, been tempted to switch mine over to either back to stock arms with disc brakes, or see if I can switch over to 82-83 arms if they bolt in also. 

[jayoop]

Really appreciate the help! On a side note: do you guys think de-rusting swing arms with vinegar/salt/lemon juice and rinsing with water/baking soda and again with denatured alcohol would do harm to the parts? Thanks in advance!

[q-tip]

Only if they're really really rusty

[Seansm10]

Mike do you have any comments about which way zx masters bolt up? My bleed nipples face the strut tower.

[datzenmike]

The early '79-'81 15/16" 280zx master cylinders have vertical mount bolts that line up with most Datsuns they are swapped into. The '82-'83 zx masters are horizontal mounting bolts and have a single shared fluid reservoir. 

 

The '79-'81 master should have the bleeders on the engine or right side for the very reason that the strut tower not be in the way.  Most, if not all, car masters are this way. Trucks have the bleeders on the outside as there are no strut towers. The bore size is usually cast onto the body of the master. If a truck master it will be 3/4" or 13/16".

[Three B's Racing]

The early '79-'81 15/16" 280zx master cylinders have vertical mount bolts that line up with most Datsuns they are swapped into. The '82-'83 zx masters are horizontal mounting bolts and have a single shared fluid reservoir. 

 

The '79-'81 master should have the bleeders on the engine or right side for the very reason that the strut tower not be in the way.  Most, if not all, car masters are this way. Trucks have the bleeders on the outside as there are no strut towers. The bore size is usually cast onto the body of the master. If a truck master it will be 3/4" or 13/16".

You can use a 7/8" master from the 240/280Z with the ZX front struts and rear stock drums. But if you have rear disks you need to replace the MC valve for the rear brakes with one out of any of the ZX 15/16" MC. I'm running the 7/8" master and it is much much better in feel and applied power to the brakes.

[ByStickel]

Some folks like the ZX water inlet (at the block) for clearing their alternator conversions.

 

Any period Datsun is a great source for fasteners. The more nissan bolts and nuts you can gather, the better off you are. Remove all you want, though, and it becomes awfully hard to move the car...

[datzenmike]

You can use a 7/8" master from the 240/280Z with the ZX front struts and rear stock drums. But if you have rear disks you need to replace the MC valve for the rear brakes with one out of any of the ZX 15/16" MC. I'm running the 7/8" master and it is much much better in feel and applied power to the brakes.

 

A 7/8 would be easier to pump than a 15/16, specially if you don't have a booster. I have the 15/16 with booster on my 710 and just can't imagine anything more perfect. Really like the feel.

 

Any front disc brake residual valve from any MC,  will work in the rear position. It's job is to retain about 2 PSI on the caliper. Two PSI is two PSI no matter what valve you use.

 

 

I have drum brakes on the back so I put my 710 rear residual valve in my zx master. Have a care as they look identical. They all do.

[KlassicMotion]

You can also snag the alternator and the starter too.

 

I've stripped out 3 280zx's, and I have three in waiting. I keep all the fasteners (there are a lot of bolts and screws that cross over. Sun visor screws for instance, are difficult to find at a retailer). And I keep all the factory hose clamps. The tachometer internal mechanism is needed for upgrading the factory tach when swapping out to a VG, or for the early Z cars to upgrade to a 3 wire tach when also upgrading to an EI distributor.