datzenmike Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Pull to stop with high beans on and get flashed by opposing traffic. (shit!) can't dim lights because in gear and foot on the clutch. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I'm doing a floor mounted switch too. And an OG signal stat for the turns. All of the factory stuff in my 210 was destroyed. My column will be pretty much naked. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Pull to stop with high beans on and get flashed by opposing traffic. (shit!) can't dim lights because in gear and foot on the clutch. Yep it's true. For all those busy intersections I roll up to with my brights on... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 Yep it's true. For all those busy intersections I roll up to with my brights on... No shit. :rofl: High beams is for backroads, yo... B) Maybe not in Canada, eh? Also, pop it in neutral, hitch the switch, back on the clutch, takes about 1/2 a second. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 This was 1970 with tungsten filaments and semi rural. Lights today are not what they were. I can't believe how much better they are now. No one builds cars with a floor mount switch, there are much better ways. You cannot do it in half a second. Or twice that. Or three times that. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 No one builds cars with a floor mount switch, there are much better ways. No one builds 510s any more either, because there are much better ways. :rofl: 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I did a thing! I installed my fuel pump. Ok, ok so it's not a very impressive thing. It's just one I have needed to do since I regasketed this motor months ago. Finally made myself get that done. I'm eventually planning to put a 720 front lip on my valence, a la Fauxbird (Photos stolen directly from 510keeper, right along with the idea of even doing this) Prior to seeing his build, it never would have occurred to me to do such a spectacular thing. Any who, I pulled a valence off my parts 720 today. Looks a little like a bag of smashed dicks, I know. But so does the rest of my car. Frankly if I used a new valence, it would be the only straight panel on the car :). That would just ruin the whole beater POS aesthetic I have going on here. I'm going to use this opportunity to practice my metal bumping, something I need a great deal of practice with. So even though a new valence is only like $30, I'm going to use this one. In the words of the great Jeremy Clarkson, "now where are my hammers!?" Actually, I already spent 20 minutes wacking it (....uhhhh....) and now it looks like a bag of slightly less smashed dicks :). Hooray doing things! 3 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Well crap. I went outside to look at how the washer fluid reservoir fit in the engine bay. I am doing research to assemble my cooling system so I was looking to see where I might choose to mount an overflow bottle, and what would look good as an overflow bottle shape. Putting my washer fluid reservoir, I utterly crushed it... :(. I caved in one whole side of the thing. It was significantly more fragile than I realized. I should have expected that though. I have crushed at least three 720 bottles and a 240sx bottle... Before I smashed it, I was thinking it would be cool to get another one and hang it either next to the washer bottle as an overflow, or hang it on the other side, add in a little symmetry. Now I'm thinking I will still get two matching ones, but I have no idea what... moving on. I also realized today that I had wired my headlight switch wrong. Headlight switch has two positions, Park lights and headlights. I realized that my park lights only came on when the headlight switch was on the "headlight" position. My headlights came on in both Park and HL positions. So I depinned and repinned the connector the correct way. Now I get park lights at Parklight, and Headlights only at HL position. So yay that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 The little accomplishments continue. Earlier I mentioned that my CHG light wouldn't ground and when I pulled the connector off the alternator it was all rusted and busted one of the tabs off the connector. Whoops. You can see how ugly that connector got. In the spirit of cheap and cuz it's there, I upgraded! Now I'm running a 60 amp '85 720 alternator, instead of the wussy '82 50 amp. I'm hardcore like that. Had to swap connectors while I was at it. Nothing special, but it's all heat shrinked and installed and what not. And one more check on my list. CHG now functions as it should. My friend pointed out to me earlier today that when my low beam headlights were on, my high beams had a dim glow to them. We traced that circuit back and forth through the car searching for where power could be backfeeding. After a couple hours of trying various things with no luck, we finally diagnosed the problem. I'm an idiot. That's the problem. You may recall that I mentioned that the headlight connectors had to be repinned to work correctly? Yes....about that....I kinda did it wrong... :) I had repinned them wrong. I moved the wires from the wrong configuration to a different and unique WRONG configuration. Yes, I'm that good. So I swapped those around, again, and hot damn, everything works how it's supposed to. I think that is only the 4th lighting wiring bit I have had to redo because round one got something wrong :). Electrical punch list is winding down though. Domelight doesnt work Parking brake switch doesn't work Door jamb switches don't work Oil pressure sender needs replaced And I think? That's all. 4 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 My overhead light/door jamb switch circuit is going to need some work. But hey, I've identified on of the connectors on my wiring harness that was a mystery. So I have a little repinning to do and then re trouble shoot that system. Moving on. Still hemhawing about my cooling system. Over the past few days, I've been scouring my parts system at work (O'Reilly auto) for radiator options. I've ordered in 4 different radiators from different warehouses to see if they might fit. I have a list of other potential radiators as well, should it prove necessary. Option 1 - VW radiator. 1996 Jetta. Moroso filler neck in upper hose. Pros - known fitment. Cools even a KA swap. Cheapest radiator option. Cons - dog ugly. Plastic cores = even more ugly. Plain aluminum bar on top, yep still ugly. It's a Euro part...I don't want that in my Datsun... don't really want the filler neck in the hose either. Filler neck costs extra, driving cost back up. Option 2 - 1987 Honda Prelude. Pros - Copper/brass radiator - I love the idea of a "vintage" style radiator in my 510, but fitting my swap. It just feels right. Plus it's a Japanese part, so that makes me happier than a Euro part. i can polish the brass on top too :). And a lifetime warranty. Filler neck on radiator. Cons - aluminum radiators are more efficient at doing a radiators job. 1 1/8 inch inlet and outlet, which is smaller than the 1 1/4 inch hose diameter of the motor, requiring adaptation. Possibly creating a restriction that prevents sufficient cooling. Might not actually fit? More on that below. Costs a little more. Option 3 - protuninglab.com, this unknown solid aluminum radiator I found. Pros - its a serious piece of radiator. It's noticeably larger than the CXRacing 510 radiator. It's designed (supposedly) for use in a 510. It's multi core. 1 1/4 inch inlet/outlet. Filler neck on radiator. Cons - UNKNOWN, possibly (likely?) pure crap. Might leak, might not actually fit well, etc. Most expensive option. Too "because racecar" for my tastes. And returning to option 2 and the fitment question. It's going to be tight if it fits at all. Here's the real measurements of it. Top to bottom, outside to outside Side to side at the widest point (much of this is bracket and could easily be whittled down for improved fitment). Top of filler neck to bottom of radiator Normally that measurement would instantly make this radiator too tall. However, the filler neck sits back from the tank by about 1.5 inches or so, not built directly on to the tank. The hood goes up a lot in that distance, so I'm hoping it will clear. You can kind of see in this crappy pic of a prelude engine bay. I will be test fitting that radiator by the end of the week. If I'm lucky, I will have time tomorrow. Otherwise, probably Saturday night before I can. Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 What's wrong with the cxracing rad? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 aluminum radiators are waaaay more efficient at doing a radiators job. Fixed. B) Some personal anecdotal evidence... Had a rebuilt brass radiator in a B210 that seemed to overheat a bit too much. Even with a 160F thermostat it would routinely get to 205F+. Switched to an aluminum radiator, temp held rock steady at 161F. That was too cold so we switched to a 180F thermostat. Then it held rock steady at 181F. :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Alrighty. Pretty sure I'm sold on the Honda prelude radiator. It's basically the largest dimensions that could ever fit in here without modification. I had to bend my horns upward too squeeze it in. It sits slightly higher than the radiator support and that filler neck sits back some, but even higher. So I put down the hood very carefully. It closed fine. Then I got down and pushed a stick through the grill and pushed the radiator. It rocked back and forth freely. Bitchin! I'm getting one! Fan clearance is poor. So that is TBD. Unsure about the resolution to this issue. I don't want electric fans yet, because money. Speaking of electric fans, when I do get there, this radiator has a bung built in right next to the lower outlet just for a fan switch. I've already identified 2 different fan switches that would work in that bung. 1988 prelude - turns on @ 194, off @ 185. 1994 Camry - turns on @ 224, off @ 215. Where the sensor would be on the "cold" side of the radiator, I'm thinking the Prelude sensor makes more sense, but I'm really not sure. Any opinions? 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 What's wrong with the cxracing rad? It gets 50/50 reviews at best. Some get a great one, others get one that leaks from day one, just like the champion stuff. And they cost more than I feel like spending. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Fan clearance is poor. So that is TBD. Unsure about the resolution to this issue. Easy fix would be get a 510 water pump and fan. Or better yet a 620 7 blade fan. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Some personal anecdotal evidence... Had a rebuilt brass radiator in a B210 that seemed to overheat a bit too much. Even with a 160F thermostat it would routinely get to 205F+. Switched to an aluminum radiator, temp held rock steady at 161F. That was too cold so we switched to a 180F thermostat. Then it held rock steady at 181F. :rofl: While I'm totally aware this is pure truth, I'm going to attempt the nostalgia route with this. At worst, I blow the headgasket and learn a lesson. But dammit, I insist on being irrational here, :). This isn't exactly a high horsepower build. And for what it's worth, the 720 radiator is very similar in overall volume/area to this prelude radiator. I realize there are other factors. I'm just unnecessarily stubborn. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 I'm just unnecessarily stubborn. Aren't we all... ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
510SSS Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Hey man for all the time you spend making a janky oil pan, when you could've just sourced one from an L-16, you know there are 2 things called engine degreaser and a wire brush, for all the work you're doing man at least you you're new Z motor wouldn't be covered in 35 year old caked on oil and it would take about 20 minutes of you're time, do what you'd like, just a thought though... :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Hey man for all the time you spend making a janky oil pan, when you could've just sourced one from an L-16 It is slanted the wrong way. I don't think it would cause oil starvation because of it, but it does reduce ground clearance and look funky. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Hey man for all the time you spend making a janky oil pan, when you could've just sourced one from an L-16, you know there are 2 things called engine degreaser and a wire brush, for all the work you're doing man at least you you're new Z motor wouldn't be covered in 35 year old caked on oil and it would take about 20 minutes of you're time, do what you'd like, just a thought though... :thumbup:Boy howdy you're a good reader. Perhaps if you return to the construction of the janky oil pan, you'll note I not only own a 510 pan, but in fact used it as a model from which to build my own. And the reasons I chose not to use it are laid out in full. I will definately look in to this "degreaser" you speak of. Your ideas are new and intriguing. I would like to subscribe to your newsletter. 4 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 For those who don't know the reference above. :) 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 I now have power to my dome light. I got that circuit figured out. I had some off stuff going on at the body connector. A red/blue wire I had on the 720 harness I thought was power to the dome light. It had no power. I traced it back through the harness and discovered it connected to nothing. It terminated at a dash connector, but there was nothing connected to it on the other side. So I pulled that whole wire out. I had a black ground wire in the body connector that I had connected wrongly to the 510 body. But when I traced that ground in to the harness, it was cut right where it would have gone in to the main ground wiring, so it was pointless anyway. I pulled that whole wire out as well. Once I got the dome light wiring figured out correctly and pinned it in to the body connector. I cleaned up some of my other work, then started wrapping tight bands around my wiring and looming it where it goes again to be sure it is all still workable. I need a new dome light assembly and new jamb switches. I'm also considering tying my rear/cargo light in to this same circuit, so both come on when a door is opened. Also thinking of adding jamb switches to the rear doors, so opening one of them also turns on the lights. We shall see. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I wired in the wiring for rear door jamb switches today. I also tied the rear cargo light into to the same ground circuit. This will allow both the cargo and dome lights to come on anytime a door or hatch is opened. Tested each new bit of wiring as I did it. Each works. I used a new technique to tie in to the existing wiring today. I took a normal butt connector and stretched it open. I used a utility knife to strip a small section of wire in the middle of the wire. I slid the butt connector over the exposed wire, slid my new connection into that and crimped it all down snug. Here's another one Then I bundled it all back up. I want to thank Engine Room for posting how he wraps wiring. I have fallen in love with his technique and now use it all the time. First wrap your wiring with tape facing sticky side out. Then go back over it, sticky side in, sticking the two sticky sides together. It creates a snug vinyl tube around the wiring. No sticky mess if you use the cheap tape like I do. Looks great, holds great, and if it needs to be removed, it comes off great. I finished off the day wrapping all the exposed harness from the body connector back to where it goes under the rear bench. 2 Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 I've been using Harbor Freight electrical tape for harnesses wrapping for like 15 years and I've never had problems with it. $5.99 for 10 rolls. Can't beat it since it appears to be better quality than the OEM's use. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I installed the wiring to be able to have a rear seat dome light. I may not install one, but the wiring is there in case I maintain my gumption. :) I bought a new oil pressure sending unit, but have yet to install it. And I'm in need of new switches for my ebrake and rear hatch. As far as I can tell, they are the same switch. And they seem to match 240z switches. Anyone know? I started a thread about this question. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/70036-510-wagon-hatch-and-ebrake-switch/ 1 Quote Link to comment
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