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Half Pint - Z22 swapped 510 goon


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I also purchased a couple of 510 L series parts. Picked up a finned "Datsun 1600" valve cover, and a 510 oil pan and pickup tube. I got a really good deal on them too, even though the guy had to ship them from Idaho.

 

The oil pan will be used as a template to modify the Z22 oil pan so my new engine will go right in.

 

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Made a pattern template from the 510 oil pan. I will be cutting apart my Z22 oil pan and rebuilding it to fit this template

 

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I realize it isn't perfect, but I don't feel like it needs to be. I just need to generally avoid the same stuff the oil pan originally avoided.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm hoping to get the oil pan built and maybe even finish the rims next week. I have a full week off from school for spring brake. Much of that is dedicated garage time. I suppose that if things go well I might even get the engine and trans bolted in...

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Spent the last two days working like crazy on the z22 for the wagon. Going slower than I would have liked.... no surprises there though.

 

The car was stored in the back yard and the engine and trans were stored in the engine bay. I had to drag the car out and put it in the driveway then haul the engine and trans out of the car. Got that all done and moved the engine/trans in to the garage so I could get started working.

 

Came up with a new way to use my engine stand. It helped me remove the transmission from the engine and made it super easy.

 

Ran some long bolts through the arms to act as supports (they are old Subaru head bolts :) )

 

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Set the trans down on those bolts and strapped it to the stand.

 

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This allowed me to undo all the bellhousing bolts and essentially just roll the engine away from the trans on the engine hoist. It was slightly more complicated than that, but not much.

 

Needed the flywheel off so I could mount the engine to the stand to flip it over and take off the oil pan. Didn't have access to my impact gun, so I built a flywheel holding tool. I've wanted one for a while, so I just decided to go for it. This one will work on any KA/Z/L at least, and it's adjustable, so it might work on even more stuff (I hope). It doesn't work how I originally thought it would, but it still works so hey, good enough for me.

 

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Got it all ready to work. Engine on stand, trans on cart, tools nearby.

 

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I remembered to drain the oil before taking off the oil pan this time. YAY progress!!! I knew it had a headgasket problem, but this seemed a little absurd. I drained 9+ quarts out of the engine.... none of it looked like mocha though, and maybe smelled a little like fuel? Maybe the fuel pump is leaking into the engine.

 

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Pulled the pan and planned my first cuts.

 

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And away we go. After cutting, I tacked the pieces in place and put it on the engine, then dropped it in the car for a test fit. It didn't fit.

 

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Also while I had the engine in under the hood, I noticed this issue.

 

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I have about a ¾ inch gap to get my mounts to fit the rubber isolaters. This led me to doing further research on how people are fitting z motors in their 510s. I found very little beyond a DQ article saying to just use the L series pan and mounts. I understand that this “works” but the motor will be tilting the wrong way, so I would prefer to find a better option. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Oil Pan Round 2 – And round 3 and 4

 

I cut more pieces out of the pan and tried again. Round 2 goes to the pan.

 

This led to a series of cuts and curses, followed by other cuts and curses, none of which really got photographed. Finally I realized I had cut too much off, so I tacked it together with the sump where I wanted it and took it back to the car for another test fit. The fatty gap in the middle is where I cut too much.  However, I've cut quite a bit out of the capacity of the oil pan.  Front half of the pan is shallower than the same point on the 510 pan, so I'm not really sure how that is going to work out, nor what I might do about it.

 

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But the fit is nice and fairly similar to the overall shape of the 510's original pan. Here it is with that piece filled in now.

 

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Here is a comparo shot of my Z22 oil pan to the template I made from the 510. Not too shabby. Thus ended my Monday.

 

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And on to Tuedsay.

 

I cut a small slant in to the back of the pan so oil would drain forward to the sump. Then I made a template and cut a filler panel. Apparently 720 floorpan is the same gauge sheetmetal, so I cut a chunk out of my parts truck to fill it.

 

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Got the whole thing welded up. I've never welded anything like this before, nor tried to make anything water proof before. I knew I was in for a trip. After welding it from the outside, I filled it with water to see how bad it was.

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It was bad. Very bad. Like leaking from 20% of the surface area I had welded bad. Not surprised, but still bummed.

 

I got pissed and welded the hell out of it from the inside. Tested it again. Much better, but still leaking from three places. Got more pissed, tried fixing the problem, burned holes in the pan. Got more pissed, filled the holes, burned a couple new ones, sealed those. Still leaking from those same 3 places, regardless what I did. I tried to seal them 3 times before giving up for today. I failed. But here it is for your visual stimulation

 

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So I put the pan down for today and went to the engine. I was pretty sure the headgasket had blown, so I started stripping it. I'm retarded and let the timing tensioner slip out. Now I get to take the front cover off as well. I didn't get the chain block tool jammed in there very well I guess.

 

Got the head off. Two of the head bolts seemed really loose as I pulled it apart. Turns out those two bolts are centered on the gasket damage. It was blown between 3 / 4 and between 1 / 2.

 

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Thats as far as I got today on the engine.

 

I had an idea to correct the engine mount misalignment issue. So I built it. It's a piece of ¾ x 1.5 inch box tube with chunks of pipe welded inside it for the bolts to pass through, so it won't crush.

 

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After putting it together I realized I have no idea what is actually necessary to center the engine. This idea may work perfectly, but it also may be putting my engine an inch off to one side. But then again, maybe that doesn't really matter. Again, thoughts on this issue? By the end of today, those 510 engine mounts and oil pan are starting to look like pretty damn good option.

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I tried welding a gas tank like that... yeah.. it's tough!! You have to go so slow... like snail slow. Even then... it's so hard to seal. 

 

It's definitely possible to do though.. just have to stick with it!

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Hooray! I got the pan to seal. It took tries 5, 6, 7, and 8 to finally get it there, but on the last round I let it sit for 20 minutes full of water and had no leakage whatsoever.

 

I started the day off carefully grinding the welds down flat on the three places I had leaks. I ground down to sheet metal and discovered that I could see a number of the holes.

 

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I filled those, then ground down again and hunted more. Each time I had a leak I would carefully grind down to flat sheet again and hunt for the crack or hole and eventually it worked. I decided that cleaning up the welds on the rest of the pan was just asking for new leaks and more trouble, so I left them alone, wire wheeled everything clean and painted it up. It should be good to go now.

 

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Taking the timing cover off the engine I had a bolt snap. Turns out it was siezed in to the cover by corrosion, not siezed in to the block. I had to pry on the cover while wacking on the cover over the bolt to get it to move. Once I had enough clearance, I cut the bolt with a grinder. Then I drove the bolt out of the cover with a drift and filed the corrosion out of the hole to clean it up. Unfortunately, I did some damage to the cover, and part of it crumbled.

 

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A large part of the outer edge crumbled away once I got it all cleaned up and the bolt out. But, upon further inspection I decided that the cover was thick enough it could handle a little modification without making any holes. So I ground the area down flat and will use a shorter bolt and call it good. I even have enough space to fit a socket on it :)

 

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Also today I test fitted the engine with the modified engine mount.

 

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The fitment itself is nearly perfect. There is a small difference in angle from the isolater to the engine mount. I'm hoping the rubber isolater can absorb the defelction when it's all tightened in.

 

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But I'm still not sure about the actual engine placement. Seems pretty far to the passenger side. Anybody reading this have an opinion on this engine mount modification?

 

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But then again, its only an inch and the motor seems more than an inch to that side, so maybe it doesn't matter. My current plan is to just put the transmission and engine back in together and see what happens.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work has continued in spite of the fact that posting has not.

 

The next day of work started here. (Dirty) Bare block still holding the rotating assembly.

 

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Got cranking with a friend of mine to get the beastie put back together. There really aren't any pics of assembly. My modified timing cover seems to have worked out perfectly. I had a good length bolt in the “bag o' fun” (the random bolts bag) so I popped that in. I installed the Z22 clutchless waterpump, but I think I am going to pull that back off and install a z24 clutch and fan. I'm not planning on installing electric fans at this time, and since I have the clutched setup, may as well take advantage of it. We shall see.

 

The z22 clutch was completely destroyed. The friction material had completely sheared off one side of the clutch plate. The rivets were exposed, but oddly there was no noticeable damage on either the pressure plate or the flywheel. Flywheel was super heat damaged though.

 

Since the name of the game here is CHEAP, I grabbed a used z24 flywheel and clutch set that I had. A little rusty but still in good nick. And measures out height wise to be within a couple mm of the z22 clutch setup, so I foresee no issues.

 

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Nothing a little emery cloth can't fix. :)

Once everything was torqued in to place (thats right, I actually used a torque wrench for once. My flywheel holding tool really shined :thumbsup: ), I slapped on the transmission and we hurried and dropped the powertrain in to place before my buddy had to take off. After dealing with my pathfinder and 720 4x4s for so long, this engine drop was fantastically quick and easy!

 

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And where the trans sits, though I think I have a jack under it in this pic holding it up some.

 

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I ordered new motor mounts from RockAuto some time back, so I installed those before we dropped the engine/trans. They fit perfect, but they are at least ¾” taller than the mounts I pulled out. Were my mounts just that destroyed, or are these mounts for something else?

 

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While I was at it, I also changed the oil light sender out for an oil pressure gauge sending unit.

 

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There ended the 18th.

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Work continued later with doing a bunch of little things with the intake manifold. I removed some of the vacuum connections that I would no longer be using and plugged them with pipe plugs. I removed the egr and fabbed up an egr block off plate. This is the second one I have made for a Z engine and boy howdy did this one go better. Apparently I'm actually learning things! Fit perfect on my first try. Got it painted up too.

 

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With the engine sitting in it's proper place, I temp mounted the intake manifold to check clearance with the hood prop.

 

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Nope, there isn't any. I have maybe an inch to the hood prop support bracket on the hood. Definitely not enough to put an air filter on of any kind, and I'm not one of the cool kids who runs without air filters. The pic isn't the greatest, but I've circled the problem area.

 

I don't want to lose the factory hood prop. I love the simplicity of it and the auto locking feature. So I decided I'm going to try to relocate it to the other side. I want it to line up under the factory hood brace on the drivers side.

 

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Before I started this project I had thought I would be covering one of the bolts for the wiper motor. Since I have a 720 wiring harness, I decided I would just try to switch over to a 720 wiper motor so I didn't have to mess with that part of the harness. 720 has 5 wires at the plug, 510 has 4 wires. It was actually quite an easy swap, minus how to attach it all to the wiper linkage. It's a little larger in the body as well, but was able to fit with minimal struggle.

 

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And that is where that ended. I have it bolted in, but I haven't connected it to the wiper linkage yet.

 

Back to the hood prop relocation!

 

So I started cutting and bending some sheet to see if I could fab up a bracket for the hood prop to bolt to.

 

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I dont' really have many other pics of the construction of it. I drilled holes and tacked nuts to the backside of the plate so I could bolt the hood prop to it. I needed some more meat on the back side of it so I would have something to weld to the car to hold my new bracket in place so I put a piece of 3/8 box on the back side to give me a lip. It's all painted up black for now, but no pic of the final product.

 

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That's as far as I got with that project and moved on to some other fabrication I needed to do while I had all my metal tools out. I seem to have a habit of stopping in the middle of things on this wagon...

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Next Up – Modified transmission mounting!!!

 

720 trans mount won't fit down in to 510 trans crossmember. 720 trans is also longer than 510, so the crossmember can't bolt to the factory bolt locations. I turned the crossmember around, but it is still something like an inch back and an inch down from factory bolt points

 

When I started I wasn't really sure how much stuff didn't fit.

 

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First up, the bottom is too wide to fit down in the cross member. So I hacked about a ¼” of each side of the bottom plate. Now it fit, but the side plates are too tall and it still sat about 3/4” above the bottom of the crossmember. So I cut maybe ½” or so off the sides.

 

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It still wasn't enough to get to the bottom, but that was as far as I was willing to cut. See the gap?

 

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So I grabbed some scrap to make something that would fill it.

 

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Drilled two new holes in the crossmember so it would all bolt up, found some longer bolts in the bag of fun, and got it put together.

 

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Once I could bolt that up to the trans I was able to really see what kind of modifications it would take to get the crossmember to bolt up to the body. Honestly, I'm guessing how far up to put the trans, but whatever, I'm good with it for now.

 

I dug around and found some hefty metal I had and went for it. No pics of the early construction of it really. I made some holes in the middle that lined up with the trans crossmember and bolted that in place. Then I bolted the crossmember to the trans and jacked it up until the crossmember adapters were tight to the body. From the inside, I put a silver pencil through the body's bolt holes and marked the adapters. This told me where to put the holes so I could bolt the adapters to the body. They didn't quite match up, so I averaged the measurements so it would center the trans evenly from each side.

 

Drilled 4 holes in each adapter and then welded 2 nuts on to the adapter. Crossmember will bolt to these welded nuts. Adapter will bolt to body through the other two holes.

 

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After I had welded everything I went back and tested all the holes to see if I had jacked anything up. I had. After threading a bolt in (it was pretty tight, but I was hopeful) it bound up trying to back it out. Completely.

 

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So I cut it off.

 

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And ground it flat. And found the culprit. A little bit of weld had leaked under the bolt in to the hole and messed up the threads on my bolt. You can see the lip on the left side of the middle hole.

 

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Welded in a new nut and all seems to be good in the world. Got everything painted up this evening. Here's all the little bits I've fabbed up in the past couple of days.

 

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That is basically where I am today. Somewhere in the middle of all that, I test fit a 720 bucket seat in the car. It's not quite as nice as an E30 seat, but I think the look fits the car pretty well and since I already have them, they are free. I plan to reupholster them before use though.

 

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Bolted in my modified transmission mounts today. They work. Engine and trans are supported competely by the car for the first time.

 

Messed around with different engine mount brackets, but in the end, though the mounts were different, everything was either the same or worse than what already had, but now the engine is in the car with my spacer and z24 mounts from a 4x4.

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You've made a lot of progress. That's awesome. One thing that I've always used to hold the flywheel in place to either take it off, or torque down, is a chain. Put a bolt through one of the links and screw it into one of the holes of the block where the tranny mounts, and another bolt through another link into a hole where the pressure plate for the clutch screws into the flywheel, the. You can rotate it one way or another if you want to loosen or tighten the flywheels bolts

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Been reading some of brodsters threads tonight. Looks like he dealt with a bunch of the same problems as I've seen when he installed a z20 in his 510. He tried a variety of engine mounts and didn't have lots of success with a perfect fit either. I feel my truck mounts are working better than the mounts he tried before customizing, but who knows. I do feel like one of my passenger side mount pulls a little oddly, however it has done that since the first time I dropped in the engine and didn't even have the trans mounted. Once I'm up and running, I'm just going to have to see what happens.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installed one of my seat support cross braces today.

 

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I don't have any pics until I got to this point. I had to modify the trans tunnel side of it. I cut it, raised it, welded and patched it. Thought I was so smart.

 

I wasn't. I bolted in the seat and say down. Then I rapidly realized that I wasn't sitting in the right place.

 

Shite! I was at least an inch off center. The seat damn near rubbed on the trans tunnel and I had a giant gap by the door. I hadn't even freaking considered seat centering when I was doing this. Lesson learned.

 

The support was already fully welded. No way in hell i was pulling it out and moving it. So I drilled some holes and welded in new nuts an inch farther over.

 

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Works well enough. I am going to add some meat to the brace though.

 

When i moved to the other side, I measured the support where I had planned to put it, turns out this one would have been almost 2 inches off of center.

 

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Measured it up centered, I've got some work to do.

 

And here's where the work will happen. When the PO removed the original supports, they drilled through every spot weld plus tore the metal repeatedly. I patched all this damage on the drivers side, but gotta get started on the passenger side.

 

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I put a Z24 on my L20B 620. Used the Z24 engine brackets to position the engine properly. The rubber isolators were different so I mixed and matched until I got something that fit. I tried to read back and find out which engine brackets you used , didn't find it. Not sure why there was a 3/4" gap. Shouldn't be there. What was happening on the right side?

 

Those thicker rubber isolators are the way they come and not really correct. It also didn't help with the hood clearance.

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I've used both z22 2wd 720 and z24 4wd 720 engine brackets. It changed how things sat mildly, but not significantly.

 

I have felt that I shouldn't need that spacer, but without it my engine brackets have no chance of fitting to the rubber isolaters. I will get pics of it and post them up later.

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