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Building an L engine in Europe


Eriks

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Hi, I'm located in Europe and considering my engine options for a 610 build I'm finishing this year. I want it to be true to the old style so any SR20DE and turbos etc is out of the question. No I really like the L engine because it is simple, reliable and easy to maintain.

 

Now, I'd like my car to have a good and powerful engine for street and everyday use, easy to start etc I know wild cams and such makes it less street friendly, so the better option seem to be bigger dispacement. However In Europe we did not get the bigger engines. The largest sold here was the one in my car, an L18 with dual SUs. Other than that we got the L13,L14 and l16, but for obvious reasons these are not something I want for my build. So I need to import a bigger block.

 

At first I was thinking of importing a L20B from the US. But then I read that you can use a L heads on Z engines. So maybe I should be looking for a Z22 short block? Or even a Z24 ( but then it was more complicated?)

 

I have an overhauled 219 head on the shelf. I have 610 oil pan and pickup. I'm just missing the block in between which I know I need to import. But which one should I be looking for?

 

Appreciate all advices, thanks.

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Well the L20B and the Z22 are basically the same block but the Z22 has larger cast cylinder holes, 87mm than the L20B's 85mm. They are both 2cm taller than your L18. By using the Z22 block crank/rods/pistons and putting all the L20B timing chain/front cover forward of the block on as well as an L head and oil pan you have basically built a 2.2 liter L20B. With care an L20B block can be bored out to 87mm and Z22 crank/rods/pistons fitted. The cylinder walls would be thinner than using a Z22 block.

 

You can do the same with a Z24 but they are 2cm taller again and an L20B timing cover will be short by this amount. You would need to fill this gap by welding and lengthen the timing chain. This would make a 2.4 liter L20B.

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Is there any reason he couldn't use the L18 front cover and extend it up, the same way the L20B is extended to fit a z24 block? Just curious because he has the L18 already it seems and that labor could be cheaper than importing an L20 front cover for him.

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Is there any reason he couldn't use the L18 front cover and extend it up, the same way the L20B is extended to fit a z24 block? Just curious because he has the L18 already it seems and that labor could be cheaper than importing an L20 front cover for him.

 

I suppose you could, yes.

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The Z24 block top surface or 'deck' is 4cm taller than your L16/18 so the L valve cover will sit this much higher. Your 219 head is a bit small for this increased displacement size. The compression with a closed chamber head will be 10 to one. Even an open chamber L20B head will be close to 9.5 to one. You could try relieving any shrouding around the valves for better breathing and to increase the combustion chamber size to drop the compression. A double head gasket will drop the compression to 9 to one.

 

You will need to lengthen the timing chain by 4? links. 

 

The L16 timing chain cover will be 4 cm (L20B 2cm) short below the head at the front. Just weld some aluminum on to fill the gap.

 

Use the L16 engine brackets to position the Z block in the L series position leaning to the right. You may have to slot the holes to allow the engine to sit lower to clear the hood. The exhaust down pipe will also be 4cm higher and closer to the floor at the front. Otherwise the L16/18 oil pan and oil pick up tube will complete the transformation.

 

Oil dip stick is now at the rear left side so the easiest think, is to check the oil level when the engine is cold. Other wise drill a new hole on the right side and seal the old hole.

 

If the Z24 has an alternator... use it. They use a 3 bolt to the block mount (I believe the L16/18 are 2 bolt and prone to loosening and snapping off. The alternator may also be self regulating and your car can easily be converted and the external regulator removed.

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With the right cam, timing curve, spark plugs and carb tuning, 10:1 is fine on the street.

 

 

  • A mild cam, or even a U20A or B, would work just fine
  • NGK B6ES plugs
  • Ignition timing set at @12 degrees initial with total timing set at @28 degrees

Lower comperssion can be gotten by hogging out the combustion chamber with a carbide burr. Basically removing the area opposite the spark plug, to match the bore. It's not really rocket science. If you bought a couple books and spent an hour online looking at pics, you could figure out how to do it.

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