620 Land Speed Record

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yeah, a failure point for sure. You could always upgrade to a thicker hose. But then, these are just for shakedown.

[distributorguy]

I'll be using Aeroquip hose to the new Webers - AN-06.  No likely failures there.  

[distributorguy]

Here's a recent pic of the engine bay, just before start-up (hasn't happened yet).  There are a few loose ends including an air gap above the radiator, the distributor wire isn't tied down, the rear carb velocity stack is too close to the brake booster (solid engine mount so they'll never make contact), and the engine breathers are not yet plumbed into an oil separator, just in case.  Feel free to pick it apart and let me know what YOU see that could/should be changed to improve durability, reliability, etc...???  I do not believe we need to run the brake/clutch lines through a heavy steel tube past the flywheel, but I'll research that further.  The stainless fuel line is run outside the frame for just that reason.  The float bowls were wrapped in header wrap prior to just repairing them, but with ceramic exhaust I don't think they'll heat up - that WILL be tested.  The MGB plastic fan will be replaced with an electric pusher on the race motor, or maybe left in place as the shroud adds air resistance to the front end (more air will flow over the truck instead of through it).  May be reverse logic?

 

[/url]">http://http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/distributorguy/media/Datsun%20project/6A180D35-B1F5-4895-A72B-8E9D26AEA731_zpsc5lwalox.jpg.html'>

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks great.

 

Consider using a master cylinder reservoir relocation kit from Wilwood to get those reservoirs out of the way. I use them often.

 

Also, maybe a stronger battery tie down? Eliminate the j-bolts and fab something so that if you do crash, the battery doesn't fly out of the hood. A gel cell battery would be my choice of battery too.

 

Other than that, it looks really tidy.

[distributorguy]

You caught my "dangling carrot."  You have to give the inspectors something easy to find, then they get lenient on other simple stuff.  The battery hold-down is a $7 kit from the local farm supply store.  I was going to use a bungee cord to make it more obvious, but that's a little too crude.  I have a full face frame made up for the top of the battery that will be held in place with clevis pins.  I have a couple red-tops around, but the extra weight of a wet cell is a good thing.  Plus they recharge faster and I don't know how big of a power sap running an alternator will be, which is why the field coil is switched on the dash.  

 

As for the master cylinder, I figured next year I'd go to rear disc brakes.  I just don't have the time this year. The Webers will have adequate clearance anyway. I don't know how well the H190 setup is going to hold up, and parts are virtually impossible to find.   New parts don't exist.  When our 2 diffs break, we go to something custom.  At that point I'll need a different master anyway, with rear discs.  I'll probably switch to a Blazer 10-bolt.  For a couple years they used a larger ring & pinion - strong with low drag and disc brakes.     

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I used to drive around without a driver's license, so that the officer had something to ticket me for. Worked every time...well almost.

 

Frontal weight is a big consideration, but I having a battery blow up and ruin everything under the hood kills me. But then, if you're not running an alternator, that's probably not a big concern.

 

I didn't realize the H190 was so hard to find parts for. If it were my choice, I'd go with the dropout 9". Being able to remove the diff sure makes things easier when you're not in the home shop

 

How about a Toyota axle? They're light weight (compared to a 9"), there's a million sources of aftermarket parts including lockers, spools, LSD's, gears, bearings, disc conversions, full floating hubs, etc. You could even run a factory electric locker and convert it to cable operation for simplicity. You can score a TRD rear axle out of a Tacoma for $300, at least out here in CA.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Also, the low amount of pinion offset on the Toyota diff means less parasitic power loss.

 

The early 4x4 axles were 55" wide, then 58", and 61" for the Tacoma. And you'd retain the 6 lug wheel pattern.

[Profile]

Why isn't the battery in the far back of the bed where you need the weight. When we ran my sons Nascar clone, we ended up with 400# of lead and needed more.

[G-Duax]

I don't know how well the H190 setup is going to hold up, and parts are virtually impossible to find.   New parts don't exist.

 

Must not be looking in the right places.

What are you looking for ?

[distributorguy]

So far I'm still on the hunt for 4.11 gears.  I found a locker.  Bearings are no big deal.  How about a shim kit?  They never came with disc brakes, not that I can't convert it, but its just more time consuming to make brackets, etc...  Toyota is on my radar but I have no experience with them.  I didn't know they had so much aftermarket support.   Ford 9" is out of the question - saps too much power.  I don't have 20 hp to spare. 

 

The battery is up front because I can stack 1/4" steel sheet on the bed floor.  at 75 lbs a sheet, it adds up quick.  There are very few places you can add weight up front.  This isn't Nascar.  Overall weight needs to be high - heavier is better for traction - at all corners.  Add weight until you get great traction (with perfect overall balance), then take enough away so that you can handle the wheel slip.  Most 200 mph cars at Bonneville weigh well in excess of 6000 lbs.  

[G-Duax]

I bought shims from McMaster car when I did my H190.

Oh, and I used a solid pinion spacer from a 240SX (R200).

[distributorguy]

Just tearing into mine now.  Looks like bearing numbers mostly carry from the originals to Timken.  I can make a solid spacer.  I had guessed they used a crush sleeve, but alas no.  Its cast steel.  For that matter I can weld onto it and cut it back in the lathe.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ok, be careful there. If the spacer is not machined perfectly flat, the pinion can tip and have uneven runout. I've seen guys do this, and I've been the one to correct their mistakes. The first time I found this problem, the customer complained of bad vibrations and a chatter in the rear end.

 

Just a word to the wise.

[G-Duax]

Some people can handle machine work, some can't.

[distributorguy]

I spend 2 hours a day on a lathe machining distributor shaft bushings with a limit of about .0002 runout.    I can also make shims from a stack of shim stock I have here, if necessary.  It wouldn't be the first time I made a custom solid pinion spacer.  Many of the old collapsible spacers are NLA and its the only solution.  

 

As for the truck, last night was monumentous!  We started and ran the truck!  It sounds fantastic for a stock cam in an 11:1 practice motor!  Its running rich (good) but strong.  Ran out of timing adjustment on the clamp assembly because I corrected the factory phasing issue on the single points distributor.  

 

Then we need to decide if we are going to radius the front fenders for tire clearance or raise the front of the truck a little over an inch.  With 750 lbs in the back of the truck between the wheel wells, the rear of the truck dropped 1".  I guess that leaves us room to add up to 1500 lbs of ballast for traction and balance without having to re-install our extra leaf spring.  

 

 

[petercscherer]

How come I see huge sparking flashes coming from the passenger side of the engine in the 1st vid at 0:28-0:31? You have a short near your starter?

[distributorguy]

That's how you can tell this wasn't staged.  The battery cable was loose on the solenoid.  Very, very loose.  Not even hand tight.  Surprised it started it was so bad.  

The puff of smoke you may see on the driver's side is from the O2 sensor not being installed.  Open bung since I couldn't find a plug at the last minute.  $10 for a stainless steel one yesterday, or $1.50 for a spark plug today... until the O2 gauge arrives.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Toyota diff plugs work in the O2 hole. I think Nissan has the same thread too.

[Crashtd420]

Love the truck can't wait to hear how it performs out there....

So here is a question. Do you or did you index your spark plugs ( open end facing towards the valves)? Are you running regular (stock) plugs?...

I accidentally put a domed piston set in my l16 and I've heard people talk about flame travel and stuff over the dome. I actually indexed mine just wondering if it's worth it or doesn't really matter... and the video gave me something to look forward to.... the sound of the engine.. I start mine for the first time in one week.. after hearing that now I really can't wait to hear what mines gonna sound like...

[distributorguy]

This is a basic stock motor with a peanut head on it - 11:1.  It has new NGK race plugs, not indexed - yet.  You can call NGK's race line and they give you plug recommendations for free - and very promptly!  These are "8's".  Race setup will run 10's.  

 

Running Standard brand points, and I have a custom CD Ignition box hooked up, but we won't turn it on until the fuel mixture is in the ballpark.  Right now its rich on the bottom and I think it goes lean on top.  Bad combo. 

 

The O2 thread is 14mm - same as many spark plugs.  Or could steal one from the '63 Nova in the other building.  Or I could wire in an O2 and hard mount my LM-1 for now.  Probably the safest option.  

[Lockleaf]

O'Reilly sells oil drain plugs that are m18-1.5. They work too (with a different gasket)(the plug comes with plastic gasket which i switch out for copper).

 

Dorman part number

 

65220 for plug

65275 for copper crush washer

 

They are a stocked on the shelf item.

[G-Duax]

The O2 thread is 14mm - same as many spark plugs.

 

Older air cooled dirt bikes came with twin plug holes, with a 14mm plug in one hole.

 

But I think you are right, wiring in the LM1 is the safest bet.

[Lockleaf]

I've been selling parts for 10 years. I have never seen an m14 o2 sensor. If yours is, that is very odd. Special application aftermarket weirdness?

[Crashtd420]

 

Running Standard brand points, and I have a custom CD Ignition box hooked up, but we won't turn it on until the fuel mixture is in the ballpark. Right now its rich on the bottom and I think it goes lean on top. Bad combo.

So your running points.. or just during test?

What's the custom ignition box?

Does it run instead of the points setup?

Are you bound by certain rules for Bonneville?

Sorry to ask a lot of questions...

[distributorguy]

I've been selling parts for 10 years. I have never seen an m14 o2 sensor. If yours is, that is very odd. Special application aftermarket weirdness?

No its me being an idiot.  I just wired in the LM-1, so its a done deal anyway.  I'm one of the few guys on this forum who rarely works with the metric system.  I'm still having a hard time adapting.   :confused:

 

Crashtd, we need to run a stock distributor, any triggering system.  I chose points because they develop the hottest spark.  Adding an optional CD to amplify that spark is experimental.  The box was built by a guy in Canada - Winterburn ignition.  If you read back through the 13 pages of build, you'll see all these details.  

 

Yes, The SCTA and BNI have developed a rule book worthy of making Nascar and other well sanctioned bodies blush.  Safety is in a different league when some drivers are far exceeding 400 mph.  I'm in production class, so the truck has very limited modifications, and many mandatory pieces of safety equipment.