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620 Land Speed Record


distributorguy

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Do you want links that have the formulas for runner length, etc.?

 

Sure!  I assume its calculated similar to measuring exhaust pulses for the header design.  Port volume, chamber volume, cylinder volume, etc...?  Just haven't ever had an opportunity to make my own intake.  I've modified many, and realized how poor a design they are.  I guess it makes sense to start from scratch with a solid design and test how it plays out.  It'll probably take less than a day to make something from scratch.  

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When you're three weeks in to the manifold, I'm going to remind you that you said it, not me.

 

How long did Joel two_68_510s on the510realm hammer away on his carbon fiber intake? I think it was that project that finally got him promoted to Captan Project Creeper though. 

 

 

 

 

Sure!  I assume its calculated similar to measuring exhaust pulses for the header design.  Port volume, chamber volume, cylinder volume, etc...?  

 

 [PPT]Design Steps for Intake & Exhaust Systems

web.iitd.ac.in/~pmvs/courses/mel713/mel713-40.ppt

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When you're three weeks in to the manifold, I'm going to remind you that you said it, not me.

 

Remember that this truck was a frame-off restoration that was basically built in 4 months?  

 

I like to gather all the materials I need (plus more), and go at the build until its done.  4 mandrel bent tubes with some coping, 2 manifold plates and 2 carb plates, potentially with a crossover tube - or at least a couple fittings in the manifold.  I think I already have all this in inventory, along with a couple appropriate manifolds to copy flanges (I simply map them out on the mill's digital readout), so  a day is about right.  I just need to get to it, which will be a while. At this point I need rear brakes first so I can get it off the jack stands and rolling.

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I just know how things go here in my shop. I have grown to understand that if I think it's going to take one hour, I don't just double it anymore, I quadruple the estimate.

 

It took me four hours to get the shifter boots properly fit and installed on my Jeep CJ5 restoration project. FOUR HOURS!!!!???? But they look great.

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I don't really care what the parts look like on this truck - they just need to function well.  I'll farm the TIG welding to a close friend who's way better at it than me, so I just have to machine flanges and cut tubes.  In the past I would have said 4 hours.  Now I know better.  It'll be a long day.  10 minutes on the band saw for each flange, then up to an hour on the mill for each (4).  Easily an hour per runner to make them (4).  So  an 8-10 hour day, only because its not my first rodeo.  I've made plenty of headers from scratch, so this will be smaller - less materials = less time right?  My flathead Ford headers took 6 hours for both.  The race header was 5 hours, but I farmed out the welding, the flange, and the coatings.  

 

And after all that, it may work like shit and I'll toss it in the "gifts to the race Gods" pile and go back to Webers.  

 

First to do the rear brake brackets.  Nissan calipers on an S10 axle?  Sure!  4 hours.  

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I have a huge pile of offerings already.  I have a full day into a great air box for the Webers that didn't work, but it fit in the confined space.  I don't have any space confinements for the intake manifold due to up to 8" extra space from the hood scoop.  That doesn't mean my initial design won't suck.  In a bad way.  I hope it sucks in a good way.  

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Not going there.......

My damn Cressida has been apart for years.

Had the engine all buttoned up 3 years ago, then thought of other things I could do to improve it, so it's apart again.

 

Built one 5-speed, then seen that other people were blowing them, so built another that would probably be OK, except less than ideal ratios.

So now on #3, a Nissan FS6R92A, with TRD gear set, and just finishing up the design of a new front flange to be welded on the chopped bell housing, so it will bolt to a Toyota bell housing.

ARG...

And because it's top gear is a lower ratio than the Toyota W-series, I having to swap rear gears also, which then will need different speedo ratio.

Never ending....

 

Hoping by this summer I'll be back out hunting mustangs.

 

And if it grenades into little bits, my offerings to the gods will grow even more.....

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If you place bets, bet on WHEN I'm going to get started rather than how long its going to take.  This is seriously easy fabrication, and I have a box full of mandrel bent stainless tubing waiting to be utilized (might be the only part of the truck that won't rust besides the windshield?)  It turns out I don't have the flange plate for the head side of the manifold, but that's a quick Saturday morning shopping trip.  

 

My trick for laying out headers (and this intake) is to use a bunch of flexible heat riser tubing to lay out the manifold before I get started cutting tubes.  Then you can figure out equal length runners and cope angles - all with a pair of scissors.  The hard part will be determining where to transition from 2" ID to the port diameter.  I'll likely make a long tapered transition for that, then blend it into the same angle as the two coped tubes it mates to. My tubing bender is now a trailer hitch-mount system so I may wait until the weather warms up?  It may take that long to get started on it anyway.  

 

 

Duax - that's why I never converted that other trans over to use in the truck.  Too much effort with too many unknowns.  

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  • 2 months later...

Well, I haven't officially started on the manifold, but all the material are in the shop, all together in a pile, along with the various parts I need to get measuring.  I also have the old manifold removed from the truck.  Now I just need a few welding supplies I don't normally have around (stainless), and its off to the races!  

 

In the mean time, we made aluminum inner door panels, got new rear wheels and Dzus-fastened Mooneye hubcaps (dealing with screws was miserable!!!), the S10 diff is all set up, rear disc brakes are fitted, and hopefully Beebani comes through with lower control arms ASAP!!!  3-4 weeks and we could be on the dyno?  Probably pushing it with an exhaust rebuild on the table as well, but the ball is rolling once again...

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We go faster!  Even if we hook up like we're on concrete,  we still need longer legs.  We were capped out at the 2 1/4 mile marker.  Even with a lack of traction, that's where we stopped accelerating.  

 

The problem wasn't washboard.  As heat rises through the day, moisture wicks up from the clay base into the salt.  (It evaporates in the cooler evenings).  Because the salt base is thin, the amount of water drawn up is huge - and even more influential.  It turns the salt into a slushy snow type of material.  Rutted, wet, greasy.  That's going to continue to happen, unless some miracle deposits a couple feet of salt on top of the clay, or the groundwater levels drop significantly.  Or both.  

 

The "unofficial" salt report that was released early, well, we all hope its true.  The truth is, it seriously contradicted itself and it was more of a reminder to get your pre-registration in before May 1st.  That saved a few of us $200, as time flies and I almost forgot to register.  Not really, but we cut it pretty close.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last weekend I managed to squeak in enough shop time to make up all the manifold flanges out of 1/2" stainless steel plate.  Hopefully this weekend I'll have enough time to start laying out tubing.  It seems I'll never get a full day to just pound it out, as forecasted above???   Ughhh.   I'll be trading my wrenching skills for a friend's TIG welding skills once its assembled.  I get to tweak brakes on an A100 van while he melts stainless.  

 

In the mean time, because I have lots of time on my hands :confused: , I received a set of lower control arms from Jason Pope / Beebani and am converting the front to coil-over shocks so we can lower the truck a little further and hopefully have a little more room to get the exhaust out the back of the truck instead of out the front wheel well.  This would allow us to be street legal and use the truck for other events, as miserably loud as it might be to drive???  It may also provide an opportunity to "trim" one of the crossmembers for more ground clearance.  

 

Does anyone have any input on whether we should reinstall the front sway bar for stability, or do you think the coil-over shocks with 450 lb springs will limit suspension travel enough to feel stable at speed?   Ride height is set at 12" from hub center to front fender lip.  Its low.  

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I would never remove the front sway bar.

It has a completely different function than the cars dampeners & springs.

In fact, my truck became much more stabile with a larger front bar. Less likely to let the back end swing out like most pickups like to do.

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Yes, agreed on the bar. Sway bars help to go in a straight line much more than one may think. If there is any inherent roll steer in the suspension design, and no sway bar is present, the vehicle will hunt as it hits bumps in the road. Even the smallest of sway bars will help with this.

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I'm not even sure what the sway bar in this truck came from.  Its longer than it should be. The ends center at the center of the lower control arms - basically right into the coil-over shocks.  I think a little heat will be in order to shift the ends forward a couple inches, and I think I already need to cut the mounting tabs off the new control arms from Beebani to relocate them into a better position.  Its never easy.  

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Between Tuesday and last night, the team really pulled together and got some work done.  Brake lines are all hooked up and ready for final bleeding, The diff is oiled and ready to run, and biggest of all the front coil-over conversion is ready for final assembly.  FIngers crossed, I hope there are no surprises there as I set up the ride height when some thrust bearings show up for the coil springs.  Once its back on the ground, I'll finally be able to build the intake manifold.  Hooking up throttle linkage will be a treat, but it's the last technical job before we hit the dyno.  9 weeks until we pack up for the salt...

 

Other jobs left to complete:

finish carb rebuilds

modify sway bar

test and tune brakes

rewire ignition, go through the distributor (again)

clean and paint all rusty areas on the truck

reinstall the race seat, belts, radio

mount/balance different tires/wheels

alignment

shift and modify ballast to use less weight and get more from it

tune ride height & ballast on scales

road test if there's time to modify the header to run the exhaust out the back? 

 

So we're almost done, right???

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