]2eDeYe Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Likely a bad ground, it happens. :) Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Likely a bad ground, it happens. :) Figured it out. I couldn't understand why the PO had cut the bed marker lights in the side. Well there has to be a direct short inside the light socket, because once the lights are on the wires get HOT. blow fuses and cause all kind of chaos. Sadly he didn't realize that 6 inches farther to the harness from where he cut was butt connectors he could have just unplugged.... I also found out that no matter what the heater/wiper fuse blows. even if both are off as soon as the key is switched on the fuse blows. 2 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 For your deiseling issue, 1. Try adjusting your air/fuel ratio on your carb. Look up specs for your carb specifically. Some of the hitachis dont have a mixture screw available though. 2. Try running seafoam through your brake booster line, and through the carb barrels. Instructions for seafoam are on the bottle. Dieseling is usually caused by two issues. Too rich of a air/fuel ratio. or an excess of carbon build up in your cylinder(s), and when your engine is hot so is that carbon wich stays hot (almost glowing) after you shut your engine off causing left over (un-combusted) fuel mixture to continue combusting, resulting in your engine "running" on its own roughly for a few seconds. Often times your engine is actually turning backwards when Dieseling. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 For your deiseling issue, 1. Try adjusting your air/fuel ratio on your carb. Look up specs for your carb specifically. Some of the hitachis dont have a mixture screw available though. 2. Try running seafoam through your brake booster line, and through the carb barrels. Instructions for seafoam are on the bottle. Dieseling is usually caused by two issues. Too rich of a air/fuel ratio. or an excess of carbon build up in your cylinder(s), and when your engine is hot so is that carbon wich stays hot (almost glowing) after you shut your engine off causing left over (un-combusted) fuel mixture to continue combusting, resulting in your engine "running" on its own roughly for a few seconds. Often times your engine is actually turning backwards when Dieseling. Thanks man! I'll buy some Seafoam this week! Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 I really want to get that little light on the firewall working next. Got the bulb but of course it isn't working. Going to pull it off today and try to see if the contacts are corroded. And going to figure out why the heater motor/wiper fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on regardless of whether they are on or not. Lol Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 Installed a new "Anti-Diesel Solenoid" onto my truck today. It really helped it isn't Dieseling as rough as it was just a little tick after the key is shut off. Still on the lookout for a tach if anyone has one for sale, lol its such a pet peeve not knowing how many RPMs I'm turning. Probably going to post the wiper issue in the electrical section. The PO had half assed pulled the AC components out so i had wire plugged and unplugged under the dash, and the Evaporator was the only thing left in the engine bay. I removed it and traced the wires from the AC relay to the cab and it was just wires... after carefully removing all of the there is a lot less clutter, but some of the wires that went plugged in to begin with are still bugging me. can anyone help? 1. this comes from the knobs on the climate control. There is 2 female spade connectors and one black male butt connector. 2.These to male spade connectors are on the blower motor housing do they have something to do with the AC or something else? I assume they connect to the two female spades in #1 but i want to be sure, don't want to make a short or something and fry something important. 3. Coming from the blower motor there is a blue male butt connector and a black female butt connector, behind them you see a black male butt connector, also sure that it will connect to the other black butt connector. but as i said i don't want to fry something. Also if anyone knows if the AC delete is just remove and forget or does some modifications need to be made? Thanks Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Well over the weekend a friend of mine challenged me to a race, his 2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V8 against my lil Datsun, I had my girlfriend with me and pretty much just let him have the road, he stayed in front of us and kept trying to drift around corners, then stopped. Let us pass and pulled up next to us. then he took off not knowing that over the hill was a sharp corner, aaaand, he was fine, but for being a dumbass I made him ride in the bed of my truck when I took him home. But on a lighter note I did replace my lower lip and turn signal lenses. Before, and After! 1 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 How do you find the replacement valance? I bought one too and I believe its slightly thinner and has less material on the sides, but I havent compared them yet. What do you think? Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 How do you find the replacement valance? I bought one too and I believe its slightly thinner and has less material on the sides, but I havent compared them yet. What do you think? Well the one I got was on rockauto, only thing was it didn't come with the side parts that curve around the fender. It seems to be build with just as thick steel. Only thing for the from marker lights it doesn't have the factory notches for the little plastic pieces that the screws go into. So you have to hold the plastic piece behind the hole they give and tighten the screw that way, nothing major. And it was like $25 so I'm not really complaining lol Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Well, had some free time today and decided I would get the Smog Pump off. The belt has been missing since god knows when, and when I tried to turn it by hand it appeared to be seized. The Air Filter, and Pulley came off easy enough but the rest of the bolts are on TIGHT, so its setting with penetrating spray for the moment. The new Anti-Diesel Solenoid kept unplugging because it had a shorter wire on it than the stock one. So I made an extension. LED gauge lights! And Dome light! And finally got all my tune up stuff from Rock Auto yesterday! 2 Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Initially I notice the truck is more eager and starts better cold after the tune up. I guarantee the old plugs were 10+ years old, and the wires were all different brands and sizes. Cap and rotor didnt look too bad but as cheap as they are I figured may as well. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted September 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 UPDATE Actually got to put the ol girl to work the other day! Pulled out the PO's radio, his job gave me unbelievably electrical woes.... Installed a manual choke as my electrical one was quirky and inconsistant. Starter went Kaput, put a brand new one on. And scored a 720 console from a fellow ratsun member, repainted and looks WAY better than the gutted up one the PO cut on for the radio. Quote Link to comment
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