MattC280Z Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Well, as an owner of a 77 280Z, an 84 and 86 Z31 turbos, I've always wanted a Datsun truck to complete the set, and I was going to settle for a 720, but I love the 620s so much more. One night I was helping a friend work on his supra until like 3 AM and on the way home I saw a 620 at a gas station, I stormed in and asked who the owner was, a tattooed coal miner with about a pound of chew in his mouth. He gave me permission to check it out, after a once over I told him how lucky he was and that I had always wanted one. He told me he would sell it after he fixed his Silverado, and that the Datsun was just a work truck. So after a month of waiting he called and said he'd sell it, as he had gotten his Chevy back. We discussed earlier The issues on the truck, and all the new stuff on it. CONS- 1. Extremely rough on cold starts 2. Speedo/Odo doesn't work, (Cable) 3. Couple of drops of oil a night while sitting 4. Rust on Rockers, and floor in spots. 5. Exhaust has hole in it, (very Loud) 6. No tach (will find one) 7. Windshield/back glass stickers 8. Busted Headlight (mine road) 9. Lose steering 10. Missing windshield wiper knob 11. Very loose shifter 12. Brakes need to be pumped PROS- 1.New Alternator 2. New Windshield 3. $500 Hopped onto it and here she is! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Price is right. Cold starting fixed with a choke adjustment and tune. Brakes are drum and notorious for needing to be adjusted. Unadjusted need lots of pedal travel. Steering slop probably worn ball joints and idler arm bushings. Headlights are $10 or less. Stickers can be scraped off. Place an ad in our classifieds for wiper knob.and tach. http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/7-electrical/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc Loose shifter is the plastic bushings, still available from Nissan or elsewhere. Welcome to Ratsun... Quote Link to comment
teagueauto21 Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Welcome to ratsun! I wish mine would have had the original wheels. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hey guys i moved this to the build threads sorry, lol you can delete this if you want Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 And I erased it and moved this one there. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Sweet truck! You'll push through those "con" items fast. Here are the shifter parts you need to fix the sloppy shifter issue: There are supposed to be bushings on each side of the shifter as seen in the photo below: All it takes is a pair of these: Or if your pin is toast, or if you are missing the plastic bushing on the end of the shifter as well, you may need all of this: Which includes the following: 32854-24900 32849-H1010 32855-H1010 32861-N4200 1 Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks for the feedback so quick guys! Welded up the exhaust holes for a temporary fix, a lot more quiet. Need to check the brakes today, I also noticed my clutch pedal has some side to side play, Are they still obtainable? And I'm pretty sure my truck is running rich, i cut into my haynes manual only to find that only the last 5 pages has to do with my truck the rest is early models so it is really no help. Im going to wait until I get my Chilton manual and read up. my first Carbed vehicle and I'm trying to catch up on all the differences and components. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 The stock carb is jetted to run fine but other things can cause an over rich condition... Choke not shutting off. This is easy to diagnose. Warm the engine, take the air filter top off and look. The choke plate is on the valve cover side and must be vertical. It can be stuck linkage, the choke relay is not working, electric wire to electric heater disconnected, improperly installed or set too rich. Flooding. Dirt in the float needle, float set too high, fuel pressure too high, primary and secondary jets swapped by mistake, idle mixture set too rich, loose carb screws or damaged internal gasket, missing internal parts. Black plugs can be wrong heat range, burning oil. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks mike! I checked and bled my brakes but the master cylinder has failed. Got one on the way, and halfway swapping the speedo cable. Ive also noticed that after the key is switched off after running the truck runs for just a few seconds more but rough, is this "Dieseling"? Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Okay, so got the new cable in... and its kind of erratic, at low speeds its bouncing from 0 to like 30 when i know I'm going under 15. and continues to bounce on the road going 50. Anyone have any advice? Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 The gauge itself could be worn out, or some weak electrical connection somewhere. The speedometer gear could be worn also. Seems like a pretty drastic bounce in speeds so i would guess a bad gauge? Also welcome to ratsun! Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 The gauge itself could be worn out, or some weak electrical connection somewhere. The speedometer gear could be worn also. Seems like a pretty drastic bounce in speeds so i would guess a bad gauge? Also welcome to ratsun! Thank you sir! I'm really not sure, man I was hoping it could have been a cheap fix. Any way to test it? A friend of mine said something about a spring inside that can break? Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Nice to see another mid-western 620. Looks like there is a 350z in the background there too. I'm pretty sure I have a wiper knob sitting in one of the boxes of parts I have laying around. I'll see if I can't dig it out. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thank you sir! 350Z is my dads I don't get to drive it much lol Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Erratic speedo, try lubricating the cable with grease. A new one should of had some kind of lubricant on it from the factory. I've used wheel bearing grease. Pull the cable out of the sleeve, grease it up and reinsert. Also check to see if there is too tight a bend in the the cable. Speedo cables don't like sharp bends. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Erratic speedo, try lubricating the cable with grease. A new one should of had some kind of lubricant on it from the factory. I've used wheel bearing grease. Pull the cable out of the sleeve, grease it up and reinsert Also check to see if there is too tight a bend in the the cable. Speedo cables don't like sharp bends. Okay thanks I'll try that and get back with you Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Does anyone know if the gauge connection at the back should spring back after turned? Should it have any resistance or anything? Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Okay will post pics soon, contacted the company I bought the cable from and they said its pre lubed at the factory. but I found my problem, the ring that does around the ring attached to the needle inside the gauge was slightly off center, so as it spun it was catching the other ring off and on and causing the needle to jump. Going to put some JB weld on it and reinstall and hope for the best! Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Still trying to solve the dieseling issue, will post a video to see if anyone has any tips Quote Link to comment
The Taterhead Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Try running higher octane to see if that helps Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Okay will do, thanks. I put thread tape on the oil pressure sender and have been 1/4 screwing and wiping a way oil, waiting a couple hours ms checking again, if it still dripped I'd tighten another 1/4 turn. I think I finally have it tight enough to have stopped the leak 1 Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Alright guys I pulled the Carpet out to really be able to asses the floor rust, and it was a lot worse than I thought. But still Fixable! Drivers Side: Passenger Side: And here is the issue that my speedo had: as mentioned before. 1 Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Well replaced the brake master cylinder, truck now stops firmly, still need to adjust the rear drums. So the parking brake will work. don't like leaving it in gear to keep it in place. Replaced all the bulbs in the tail light housings and they all work except for the right sides brake light and turning signal. Going to check it out today and see what i find. Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 Went ahead and bought a new oil pressure sender ad the one that was in it was leaking itself. Thread taped it too, out with the old and in with the new! Quote Link to comment
MattC280Z Posted July 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 Well after an afternoon of driving i found out that the fuse to the tail lights burned and scorched the plug. now my tail lights are dead, put in a 30A fuse to see if they'd work and they don't. ugh Quote Link to comment
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