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West KY 620 (Dream Come True!) Build Thread


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Well, as an owner of a 77 280Z, an 84 and 86 Z31 turbos, I've always wanted a Datsun truck to complete the set, and I was going to settle for a 720, but I love the 620s so much more. One night I was helping a friend work on his supra until like 3 AM and on the way home I saw a 620 at a gas station, I stormed in and asked who the owner was, a tattooed coal miner with about a pound of chew in his mouth. He gave me permission to check it out, after a once over I told him how lucky he was and that I had always wanted one. He told me he would sell it after he fixed his Silverado, and that the Datsun was just a work truck. So after a month of waiting he called and said he'd sell it, as he had gotten his Chevy back. We discussed earlier The issues on the truck, and all the new stuff on it.

CONS-

1. Extremely rough on cold starts

2. Speedo/Odo doesn't work, (Cable)

3. Couple of drops of oil a night while sitting

4. Rust on Rockers, and floor in spots.

5. Exhaust has hole in it, (very Loud)

6. No tach (will find one)

7. Windshield/back glass stickers

8. Busted Headlight (mine road)

9. Lose steering

10. Missing windshield wiper knob

11. Very loose shifter

12. Brakes need to be pumped

 

PROS-

1.New Alternator

2. New Windshield

3. $500

 

Hopped onto it and here she is!

IMG_1964_zps262wws55.jpg

IMG_1975_zpstjcyurn5.jpg

IMG_1969_zpslhcavbeb.jpg

IMG_1977_zpswygraamq.jpg

IMG_1971_zpscwiuq1dn.jpg

IMG_1978_zpsh0lkfcur.jpg

IMG_1979_zpswov1hs8p.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Price is right.

 

Cold starting fixed with a choke adjustment and tune.

Brakes are drum and notorious for needing to be adjusted. Unadjusted need lots of pedal travel.

Steering slop probably worn ball joints and idler arm bushings.

Headlights are $10 or less.

Stickers can be scraped off.

Place an ad in our classifieds for wiper knob.and tach.  http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/7-electrical/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc

Loose shifter is the plastic bushings, still available from Nissan or elsewhere.

 

Welcome to Ratsun...

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Sweet truck!

You'll push through those "con" items fast.

 

Here are the shifter parts you need to fix the sloppy shifter issue:

08212013_bruiser_no_bushings.JPG

 

There are supposed to be bushings on each side of the shifter as seen in the photo below:

 

shifter_bushings_2.jpg

 

All it takes is a pair of these:

 

nissan_shifter_bushings.JPG

 

Or if your pin is toast, or if you are missing the plastic bushing on the end of the shifter as well, you may need all of this:

 

shifter_bushings_3.jpg

 

Which includes the following:

 

32854-24900

32849-H1010

32855-H1010

32861-N4200

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Thanks for the feedback so quick guys! Welded up the exhaust holes for a temporary fix, a lot more quiet. Need to check the brakes today, I also noticed my clutch pedal has some side to side play, Are they still obtainable? 

 

And I'm pretty sure my truck is running rich, i cut into my haynes manual only to find that only the last 5 pages has to do with my truck the rest is early models so it is really no help. Im going to wait until I get my Chilton manual and read up. my first Carbed vehicle and I'm trying to catch up on all the differences and components.

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The stock carb is jetted to run fine but other things can cause an over rich condition...

 

 

Choke not shutting off. This is easy to diagnose. Warm the engine, take the air filter top off and look. The choke plate is on the valve cover side and must be vertical. It can be stuck linkage, the choke relay is not working, electric wire to electric heater disconnected, improperly installed or set too rich.

 

Flooding. Dirt in the float needle, float set too high, fuel pressure too high, primary and secondary jets swapped by mistake, idle mixture set too rich, loose carb screws or damaged internal gasket, missing internal parts.

 

 

Black plugs can be wrong heat range, burning oil.

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Thanks mike! I checked and bled my brakes but the master cylinder has failed. Got one on the way, and halfway swapping the speedo cable. 

 

Ive also noticed that after the key is switched off after running the truck runs for just a few seconds more but rough, is this "Dieseling"?

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Okay, so got the new cable in... and its kind of erratic, at low speeds its bouncing from 0 to like 30 when i know I'm going under 15. and continues to bounce on the road going 50. Anyone have any advice?

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The gauge itself could be worn out, or some weak electrical connection somewhere. The speedometer gear could be worn also.

Seems like a pretty drastic bounce in speeds so i would guess a bad gauge?

Also welcome to ratsun!

Thank you sir! I'm really not sure, man I was hoping it could have been a cheap fix. Any way to test it? A friend of mine said something about a spring inside that can break?

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Erratic speedo, try lubricating the cable with grease. A new one should of had some kind of lubricant on it from the factory. I've used wheel bearing grease.

 

Pull the cable out of the sleeve, grease it up and reinsert.

 

Also check to see if there is too tight a bend in the the cable. Speedo cables don't like sharp bends. 

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Erratic speedo, try lubricating the cable with grease. A new one should of had some kind of lubricant on it from the factory. I've used wheel bearing grease.

 

Pull the cable out of the sleeve, grease it up and reinsert

Also check to see if there is too tight a bend in the the cable. Speedo cables don't like sharp bends.

Okay thanks I'll try that and get back with you

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Okay will post pics soon, contacted the company I bought the cable from and they said its pre lubed at the factory. but I found my problem, the ring that does around the ring attached to the needle inside the gauge was slightly off center, so as it spun it was catching the other ring off and on and causing the needle to jump. Going to put some JB weld on it and reinstall and hope for the best!

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Okay will do, thanks. I put thread tape on the oil pressure sender and have been 1/4 screwing and wiping a way oil, waiting a couple hours ms checking again, if it still dripped I'd tighten another 1/4 turn. I think I finally have it tight enough to have stopped the leak

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Alright guys I pulled the Carpet out to really be able to asses the floor rust, and it was a lot worse than I thought. But still Fixable!

 

Drivers Side:

IMG_1988_zpszilmr15l.jpg

 

Passenger Side:

IMG_1987_zps76jgkhct.jpg

 

 

And here is the issue that my speedo had: as mentioned before.

IMG_1992_zpsu5rpfhxv.jpg

IMG_1993_zpsbsg2x14c.jpg

IMG_1994_zpsmvzljdlu.jpg

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Well replaced the brake master cylinder, truck now stops firmly, still need to adjust the rear drums. So the parking brake will work. don't like leaving it in gear to keep it in place. Replaced all the bulbs in the tail light housings and they all work except for the right sides brake light and turning signal. Going to check it out today and see what i find.

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Well after an afternoon of driving i found out that the fuse to the tail lights burned and scorched the plug. now my tail lights are dead, put in a 30A fuse to see if they'd work and they don't. ugh

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