Need help with installing after market water temp/ oil pressure gauges

[808nissan720]

I have a 1986 720 with a 2.4 napz. Everything is stock on the truck, but I noticed the water temp gauge doesn't move when I drive it. I bought an aftermarket water temp gauge at Oreilleys. The part I'm confused about is that there are 3 vacuum lines coming from the original water temp sending unit. The aftermarket gauge fits right in, but idk what to do with those 3 vacuum lines. Any suggestions?

 

Also, I've never installed an oil pressure gauge. In fact, the only reason I bought it is bcuz it was cheaper to buy it in a set rather than ala carte. So any help on this would be super appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

[KoHeartsGPA]

I'm not familiar with your setup, if no one else can direct you the right way, YouTube it, you'd be surprised how detailed step by step videos can be.

[hellaflushed720]

I just removed the 3 vac lines as far as I can tell they didn't do anything or make a difference only my 2 cents but I'm in the middle of a wore tuck removing ant lines an hoses that are useless under the hood most are Crack an not operating correctly to begin with truck still runs great

[datzenmike]

I have a 1986 720 with a 2.4 napz. Everything is stock on the truck, but I noticed the water temp gauge doesn't move when I drive it. I bought an aftermarket water temp gauge at Oreilleys. The part I'm confused about is that there are 3 vacuum lines coming from the original water temp sending unit. The aftermarket gauge fits right in, but idk what to do with those 3 vacuum lines. Any suggestions?

 

Also, I've never installed an oil pressure gauge. In fact, the only reason I bought it is bcuz it was cheaper to buy it in a set rather than ala carte. So any help on this would be super appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

The temp gauge sender is near or just under the thermostat outlet to the upper rad hose. It will have a Yellow/Black stripe wire to it. Ground this wire with the key ON and the gauge should read full HOT. If so the gauge is fine and the sender bad and cheaper to replace.

 

What you describe with the three vacuum hoses is the T V V (thermal vacuum valve) It has two ported vacuum lines from the carb and the top hose is a vacuum leak. When the engine is cold the leak destroys the two vacuum signals. As the engine warms up the leak is sealed and vacuum can then pass on. Thus there is no EGR or vacuum advance when the engine is cold. One is for the EGR the other (more important one) is the distributor advance. While the EGR doesn't matter so much, the vacuum advance does. Find the vacuum advance line to the distributor and connect directly to the port on the carb, by-passing the T V V. The Vacuum advance is the hose that was on the very bottom of the T V V.

 

 

I just removed the 3 vac lines as far as I can tell they didn't do anything or make a difference only my 2 cents but I'm in the middle of a wore tuck removing ant lines an hoses that are useless under the hood most are Crack an not operating correctly to begin with truck still runs great

 

Beware removing vacuum lines indiscriminately. You will add problems that are more bother than just replacing the lines you have. The smog equipment have almost zero affect on performance and running and at least two improve mileage and save gas.

 

 

 

The threads in the block for the oil pressure sender are BPT (British Pipe Thread) so all N American oil pressure senders will not screw in. You will need an adapter.

[808nissan720]

Thanks for the info Mike!!! Much appreciated!

[hellaflushed720]

Thanks for the info 90 percent of my lines are broke or cracked very few have vaccum actually on them I'm only removing to clean up any spots that need attention pulling the motor for a fresh build will soon follow (anyone know what to do to post pics I'm on a mobile phone)