Oscarmaier Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I just recently finished my l18 rebuild and when I got it "running" today I seem to have a dead hole on 2 & 3. Also I'm getting a backfire through the carb. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Compression: 150psi across the board Timing: 10 BTDC Valves adjusted: Intake .008 exhaust .010 Spark plug gap: .029 good spark on all 4 plugs Weber 32/36: set to base adjustments idle mixture screw 2 turns idle speed screw 1 1/2 turns Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Check your firing order, Counter Clockwise, 1-3-4-2. Quote Link to comment
Oscarmaier Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Wow, I can't believe I missed that. Thanks Doc, went out swapped 2 & 3 and she lit right off idling smoothly. This has been a long day, I first had a bad out of the box fuel pump. Then I had the distributor 180 out due to using a different distributor then what come off the car, I had the pedestal on 180 out, I must have just not been paying close enough attention. I also forgot to mention, the car keeps running after I turn off the ignition. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 The distributor can only be 180 out if the drive spindle is 180 out. If the 11:28 position of the spindle is wrong you can move all the plug wires two positions left or right. It's 'corrected' but still 180 out of proper position. Pull your dizzy when TDC on #1. If it looks like this then it was fine and your wires were 180 out. Is the 'small' half moof in the picture is on the right then it IS 180 out. No big deal it will still function but the vacuum advance may be hitting the thermostat housing. Engine won't shut off with the key? If you recently replaced your externally regulated alternator with an internally regulated alternator by mistake it will keep running. 1 Quote Link to comment
Oscarmaier Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 The engine timing was all right, but the pedestal was on 180 out limiting the amount of timing movement out of the distributor, I couldn't get the timing right.. The alternator was what I was thinking too, I'm going to check it out tomorrow after work. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Wow, I can't believe I missed that. Thanks Doc, went out swapped 2 & 3 and she lit right off idling smoothly. This has been a long day, I first had a bad out of the box fuel pump. Then I had the distributor 180 out due to using a different distributor then what come off the car, I had the pedestal on 180 out, I must have just not been paying close enough attention. I also forgot to mention, the car keeps running after I turn off the ignition. Any thoughts? I've made that mistake way too many times, glad you go it fixed. The "run on" issue is fairly common, so you ave to use "clutch kill". I'd put some more timing into the equation *12 -13* BTDC) and adjust the idle down. The run on is caused by the throttle plates being open. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Ah, I took the 'kept running' too literally. Run on or dieseling is very common on the L20B. On all engines it can be caused or made worse by too much air and fuel at idle... Too fast an idle setting.... secondary not completely closed, BCDD set too sensitive, or see choke below. Flooding.... too high fuel pressure, float setting, stuck float, dirty needle, gasket etc. Idle mix set too rich, dirty air filter. Choke not shutting off properly.... fast idle stuck on Too low an octane fuel for the compression. Too hot a plug range or engine running too hot. 1 Quote Link to comment
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