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New 77 810 wagon.


SLC_810

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Just acquired a 77 810 wagon with 101k original miles. Body is straight with minor leaks. needs from suspension work...I am going to scour this site fort info since I know those parts are rare. Any insights or suggestions you may have or any parts providers you can recommend would be much appreciated.

 

 

For some reason, images on google+ won't show up. Here are the links to images

 

https://goo.gl/photos/ztgAhxZ66DNXdkoN7

 

https://goo.gl/photos/9x6dCAnsqaUgcmW66

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I put this write up together it was passed on to me by a Z car guy who had a 810 Coupe, front suspension being the same for all coupe sedan & wagons up front.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59582-how-to-280zx-rack-pinion-steering-in-1977-1980-810/

 

 

I haven't had the extra money but I have cut springs up front with lowering blocks on the back I'm going to refill my struts with fork oil to make the ride a little stiffer and less bouncy. There's sway bar kits that come with everything that I haven't got to just yet. You can also replace the rear shocks with shocks that have springs they run about $60-80 depending on who you guy them from. You can also get a 4 speed auto with overdrive instead of the 3 speed auto, they come in the 84 Maximas.

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I put this write up together it was passed on to me by a Z car guy who had a 810 Coupe, front suspension being the same for all coupe sedan & wagons up front.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59582-how-to-280zx-rack-pinion-steering-in-1977-1980-810/

 

 

I haven't had the extra money but I have cut springs up front with lowering blocks on the back I'm going to refill my struts with fork oil to make the ride a little stiffer and less bouncy. There's sway bar kits that come with everything that I haven't got to just yet. You can also replace the rear shocks with shocks that have springs they run about $60-80 depending on who you guy them from. You can also get a 4 speed auto with overdrive instead of the 3 speed auto, they come in the 84 Maximas.

Thanks so much for the info.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks all. Since I have acquired it I have changed and flushed all fluids, new plug wires and plugs,A/C,  lights and some minor lost interior pieces. Next is the suspension. Going to overhaul everything. I found most plus have read the posts regarding 280ZX strut inserts with spacers being able to be used. Does anyone know how much spacers, in in or mm, is needed?

 

I am also looking at fuel injectors and mass air flow meters, or the equivalent non this car. The car is running pretty rich and I am figuring it is probably one of the two since the o2 sensor is pretty new. ANyone want to share insights on these?

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Just buy a handful of washers and add them as needed to the bottom of the strut tube to shim the insert up. Myself I would just dump the almost 40 year old strut hydraulic oil out and refill with something thicker. I have '84 Maxima struts on my 710 and they still had the original factory oil bath dampers. The old oil was watery thin so I replaced it with 20 W motorcycle fork oil. The thicker oil resists being pushed through the valves and returns the firmness to better than new. The oil was $17 a liter, enough for three struts. My other 710 has ATF in it which is about 10W? and next time I have my Maxima struts out I'm going to try 30W as I only drive it in warm weather.

 

If one or more cylinders are running rich take the plugs out and 'read' them. The rich cylinders will be darker than the others.

 

The MAF sensor has a 'flap door' pushed open by the air flowing through it. This is connected to a wiper arm that swings across a variable resistance to give a value to the ECU so it can compute an injector signal. This constant rubbing can wear away the resistance on the path and give confusing readings to the computer. This can be part dismantle and moved to a fresh patch. In addition the overall richness can be adjusted up or down a click.

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Far as I know 810 did not have O2 sensor not even my 1979 has one. Someone must have added it or maybe the smog required it. Lowering it is not hard there is no aftermarket support for these cars other than front and rear sway bars. I'm not sure on spacers my car is lowered 3" in the front on cut springs and 2" lowering blocks in the rear on 14x7 -0 wheels that fit nicely with 195/60/14 all around. You can add the fork oil in the front to stiffen up the struts like Mike said. Also MAF are in newer cars these have the AFM. Have you check all the connectors for any corrosion? Also good idea to look at your TPS.

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  • 2 months later...

First big project finished. Replaced all the bushings, ball joints, idler arm, etc in the front end yesterday. Got a basic alignment on it but will need it done professionally. Makes a huge difference. Next is the rear end. Have the shocks but the leaf springs are sagging badly. Thinking of just adding a helper spring and calling it good.

 

Looking for window felts and door seals now. The old ones are all but gone. I founf a full set from Thailand for the seals but were freaking expensive at $129. Any other ideas? Are there any other Datsun models I could tweak that are close? I'm figuring the factory kept these parts at least close to identical

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Dropped $129 bones for 4 new door seals. Ugh. I found a part number for a window felt replacement on another thread in the forum but it was for one of teh trucks. Is it safe to assume its the same size felts across all datsun vehicles that year? I certainly hope so. Anyone have any insight on this?

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