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First Datsun dilemma '76 280z vs '81 280zx


brapattack

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Really?  I had always heard that rwd cars needed the drive shaft disconnected because even in neutral the rear wheels moving would spin the gears and without the engine running it would overheat the trans since no fluid would be being pumped through it.  Not sure how to test the trans on a non running car though.

 

Any thoughts on the rust and 1 cylinder being way low PSI?  I was happy about about the rust in most places but those frame rails worry me.

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I had always heard that rwd cars needed the drive shaft disconnected because even in neutral the rear wheels moving would spin the gears and without the engine running it would overheat the trans since no fluid would be being pumped through it.  

 

There is no fluid pump in a Datsun manual transmission. The trans oils itself by slinging fluid around. Which I am 99% sure it does whether it's running or not.  

 

I could be wrong, but I've never broken one this way, so...

 

 

Any thoughts on the rust and 1 cylinder being way low PSI?  I was happy about about the rust in most places but those frame rails worry me.

 

Sadly, the rails are beat/rusty on almost every S30 in Texas. It's all too common here...

 

As for one cylinder being down, I personally wouldn't judge it on that just because it's sat for so long. Could just be stuck oil rings that may loosen up as you drive it?

 

I would definitely use it as a bargaining chip in the negotiation, but it wouldn't scare me off fixing it. That, and good 280Z/280ZX engines are not exactly hard to find around here. 

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The rest of the frame looked pretty rust free.  I wonder if I can just cut out the floors and the rail in that section and weld in a new one.  Well I know other folk do it but I wonder if I should tackle something like that.  I do weld in my usual work but all with an oxy/acetylene rig, no TIG.

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The rest of the frame looked pretty rust free.  I wonder if I can just cut out the floors and the rail in that section and weld in a new one.  Well I know other folk do it but I wonder if I should tackle something like that.  I do weld in my usual work but all with an oxy/acetylene rig, no TIG.

 

FWIW, I am pretty decent/experienced with oxy-acetylene welding. Took me about 5 minutes to get passable with a wire-feed welder. You can do it.   :thumbup:

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The rest of the frame looked pretty rust free.  I wonder if I can just cut out the floors and the rail in that section and weld in a new one.  Well I know other folk do it but I wonder if I should tackle something like that.  I do weld in my usual work but all with an oxy/acetylene rig, no TIG.

I agree with datsunfreak, you could very easily learn to MIG weld enough to get a lot of these issues fixed. Just takes time and materials.

~Peter

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At 12 hundy, I'd jump on it. I got my 510 out of a pile of weeds and brush for $500, we had it running that night, l series shit is bullet proof. All the body parts for the Z are available, get it running so you can enjoy it while you work on it, do the rails and soforth when you can.

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Thanks, I think I should just go for it. Feels. Little overwhelming getting into a project like this but that's just cause I need to wrap up a couple motorcycles.

 

MIG would certainly be faster and I wouldn't have to clean up flux after. We'll see. My first order will be to get the gas lines, tank and AFM all mounted and probably get new injectors. Also going to get a rubber kit to replace all the seals right off the bat to slow anymore water getting into it. Just try to stop the decay while I turn the rest of it around.

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Not yet, I have the radiator out of my Ranchero right now and waiting for a part to show up so I can throw it back in.  Didn't want to add a non-moving vehicle to my driveway until I get that back together.  The part will either show up today or Monday so shouldn't be too long.

 

Also, someone is coming to look at the Ranchero this week and if that sells then i'll probably use that money to buy a functioning Z that I can steadily improve rather than a long term project.

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Here is what might be a strange question; how do the rear shocks/struts mount to the lower control arm/hub/knuckle on the 280z?  I am asking because I would like to take this one in the opposite direction than most.  Up with offroad tires like the 240z rally days.  I know this might be blasphemy to most on here but seems like a fun direction to go.  

 

I would want to add just a couple inches with longer struts, or use a spacer maybe.  Then add on tires that take up as much space as possible.

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Did you just watch Mad Max?

kenn-yap-215.jpg?1431770197

 

I think a rally style Z would be cool. I've seen pics of lifted Z's around, you wouldnt be the first but it is different.

 

You can find all that in the factory manual at the top of this forum. You should probably read it one or twice before buying a 240.

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I did see mad max but I actually started thinking it would be cool when I saw one of those AMC Eagle SX/4 that had been turned into something like that...and I thought a 280z would look pretty darn cool if I could figure out how to fit big mud tires on it.Datsun_Fairlady_240Z_001_zpssxwcq65f.jpg

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Just looking at the diagrams and in the manual, it looks like it would be possible to put a spacer on the underside of the top mount in the car or at the base of the strut.  The easiest would be to just get a longer strut assembly but most listing don't have raw dimensions, rather they list how much lower than stock it will be.  Wanting to go in the other direction means finding something from a different vehicle most likely.

 

First things first is getting that car to my place and doing some measurements on how tall of a time could fit in there with a stock setup.  I know its got extra room as is, but also need to look into how much travel there is.

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You could fabricate a longer sleeve type coil over setup. Use a coil over kit with a threaded body, then extend the length of the tube that welds onto the spindle. This way you could still adjust the ride height by a few inches. Not sure how this would effect the suspension geometry, or ride safety but it would get the look. Or you could just lighten the stock body! That would get you up there with no suspension mods, haha.

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Sounds like that blue one has belonged to the same family since it was bought in 1975.  The father bought it and drove it for a few years before the son took it to college.  Then it sat in their barn for over 15 years.  No major wrecks.  She didn't comment on rust or what might be wrong with it (other than usual sitting decay) but it sounds like a great candidate for fixing up.  Going to try and get up to Dallas later this week to check it out.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Slowpoke,

     I haven't gotten a Z yet but I really like this one: https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/5152002065.html

 

The problem (not a bad one) is that my ranchero sold and I had to buy something else with a bed.  So now i've got a first gen toyota pickup that im funneling cash into...If that black 260z was posted a month ago I would have picked it up, now i don't think its smart to buy a second vehicle in as many months.

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