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First Datsun dilemma '76 280z vs '81 280zx


brapattack

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Been wanting a Datsun for years and I am finally in a good place to pick one up.  My problem is what I outlined in the title.  How to choose?!  I don't think I am in the minority in preferring the 280z looks.  This car wouldn't need to be my daily driver now but would like it to be down the road.  How would you guys weigh these options?  I know this is a big ask for a new member but hopefully I can provide good content and discussion once I have chosen and start tinkering.

 

Here are the details on the ones I am looking at:

 

The 280z is the project option and cheaper at $1500. supposedly ran a year ago and would need to tow to me but comes with fresh tires, extra glass, and louvers.  Its currently covered in black and grey primer.  Might just need cleaning out injectors, fresh fluids and such to get running again but who knows. (sorry, only have tiny pics)

IMG_4006_zpstbbi5psu.jpgIMG_4007_zpsnhy6hozi.jpgIMG_4008_zpseg4q9wb2.jpg

 

 

The 280ZX is a daily driver with these details: driver dropped the price to 3k when I mentioned leaning towards a 280z.

219k miles runs strong, motor was rebuilt but I am unaware how long ago that was. Passes inspection
Completely stock
Rebuilt calipers
Redid the brakes
New battery terminal and battery
New vacuum hoses
New gearbox
New thermostat as well with new housing for it 
New fuel pump
New fuel floater 
New fuel injectors
New spark plugs 
New spark plug wires 
New moshimoto radiator 
New master cylinder and brake booster
New windshield wiper motor
New headlights 
Working stereo 
Cleaned out the gas tank and coated it
Primered paint job(was faded when I got it so I just primered it for now)
Very little rust if not any, anymore

00v0v_jSc06Vk3k88_600x450_zpss0ydqksf.jp01313_1LMhYUl1ET8_600x450_zpsdkbsy9gb.jp00B0B_i96W8jrTc4M_600x450_zpship8fmem.jp

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Oh and I suppose I should mention my level of mechanical knowhow.

 

On previous old american cars I have redone suspensions (all bushings, bumpers, ball joints, coils springs, tie rods), installed carburetors, alternators, belts, radiators plugs, and fluids.  Brake mster cylinders, timing, and compression tests.  Some wiring and light sheet metal work.  Never pulled engine or anything that major though.

 

On motorcycles I have rebuilt engines from the case up, honed cylinders and re ground valve seats and just about everything else you can do.  I am by no means an expert but with enough time I can get it done and it will work well.

 

I do metal fabrication for a living but I do things in an old labor intensive ways.  Tink oxy-acetylene torch and 1937 Southbend lathe and hand tools.  So I can weld/braze stuff.

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If you want a daily and have 3k to spend, I suggest taking your time and looking for another S30. Find one that runs, has most of the interior, check for rust, check the compression, and oil pressure. If your patient and willing to travel a bit, you can find a good running low rust  S30.

The S30 you posted look like it will nickle and dime you. Looks like the PO's had not taken much care of it and it it has a lot of lame bootleg repairs. Go look at a few Z's in person before you buy and it should clear up a lot of your questions.

I personally wouldn't spent $1500 on a non running 280 unless the body was in really great condition with no rust.

 

Good luck!

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Yeah it's tough to go see all the ones I would like to because TX is so damn big and my current daily is a '73 ranchero (9mpg). I can ride my motorcycle out to see stuff but obviously can't bring the car home. If I'm going to drive 3 hours each way to see a vehicle, I'd rather not have to go twice...maybe im just lazy on that kinda thing.

 

This one sounds cool but running lean is not a good condition for driving 3 hours down the highway.http://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/5063552006.html

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As a former 280zx owner, I can tell you they are heavy, boring, ugly pieces of shit that are only worthwhile for parts for real datsuns. Get an s30, you'll be happy for years to come. Get a zx and you'll hate it very soon. The choice is yours, don't fuck it up.

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Yeah it's tough to go see all the ones I would like to because TX is so damn big and my current daily is a '73 ranchero (9mpg). I can ride my motorcycle out to see stuff but obviously can't bring the car home. If I'm going to drive 3 hours each way to see a vehicle, I'd rather not have to go twice...maybe im just lazy on that kinda thing.

 

This one sounds cool but running lean is not a good condition for driving 3 hours down the highway.http://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/5063552006.html

 

In my opinion a few hours of driving is worth having a car that you can drive home and enjoy it as you work on it. If your looking for a long term project buy whatever and enjoy.

 

I bought my first 240z on impulse. It didn't run, block had a nice crack it in, i thought it just had a head gasket leak. It had tons of rust. I swapped a running motor in it, got it running, sold it, and bought a cleaner running 280z. I thought i wanted a project but i couldn't wait to drive it. I woulda saved a lot of cash and time if I had just had some patience and waited or drove for a better car.

 

My brother wanted a 1st gen celica and bought the first thing he saw....told him not to buy a non-runner.....he bought a non-runner. Luckily we got it running and driving but the thing is nickle and dime-ing him to death. Its taking way more than he thought to make it reliable. It really needs a full restoration. Everything is shit on it.... He is attached to the car now but wishes he would have bought a better one.

 

I agree with Dolomite.

 

 

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The guy with the silver one says some local folks are coming to look at it before I could get out there.  He is going to let me know if it doesn't get snatched up.

 

I think I will ride my motorcycle out to check on the rust level and look at the junky one (gotta bring my own battery to comp test it).  That will happen on Sunday.

 

I like this one but the guy doesn't want to move much on the price. https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5049058804.html

On cars like this https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/5048072665.htmlare people just asking too much or is it worth 6k?  I mean I know the 240z are valued more, just asking what is normal.

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I'll offer my opinion... but keep in mind that I'm on the East Coast where finding a reasonably rust free S30 chassis is as rare as winning the lottery.   :rolleyes:

 

You are about 1.5 hours from the San Antonio car, right?  Get there ASAP and inspect the car.

 

If the floorboards, floor support rails, and frame rails are rust free, offer $5K, split the difference and buy the car.  You can't find one, fix all the problems, bring it to the described engine/tranny state, and have it as a reliable daily driver for less money.

 

dgi

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Yeah I don't have 5k to spend up front though. I know I'll end up spending at least that much fixing something up but they key is that I'll do it at whatever pace the bank account allows. Who knows, maybe after another month of it not selling, he will lower the price and I'll have more $ set aside.

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All the more reason to toss the EFI and put on some carbs.   B)

Totally disagree with that statement.  The Bosch EFI system on the 280Z's was excellent and much more reliable than carbs. I drove my '77 280Z 100,000 miles on my L28 and the only issue I ever had with the system was a loose connector to the fuel pump and some corroded contacts in the engine temperature sensor harness.  Yes, it does require a different skill set than carbs but then, this is the 21st century. :-)

You're in Texas. contact the various Z clubs in the state.  Z Club of Texas in Dallas, Cowtown Z in Ft Worth or the club in Houston.  Not sure - there might even be another one there in Austin.  Those guys will know where there is an S30 that will fit your budget and they'll be a great resource when you start working on it.

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Totally disagree with that statement.  The Bosch EFI system on the 280Z's was excellent and much more reliable than carbs

 

Well, I was actually just having a laugh.    :rofl:

 

But in no way is a 40+ year old EFI system more "reliable" than a good set of SUs (in my opinion). When the Jetronic stuff works, it works great. When it doesn't, it can be a real pain in the ass. 

 

Spent 3 days already chasing a problem on my '77 (won't fire the injectors), still no closer to an answer. Could've rebuilt two sets of SUs in less time.  

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Went to see the rough one, a lot of the body was in good shape.  Couldn't find any bondo.  Here are some pics of the usual rot spots and the worst bits on the underside of the passenger side.

 

battery box

IMG_4022_zpsb5y1582j.jpg

 

IMG_4027_zps2exmsgyk.jpg

IMG_4028_zpsmvtrarks.jpg

IMG_4030_zpsl6lokifc.jpg

 

driver side door

IMG_4034_zpstsg9a2ng.jpg

 

underside seems pretty bad to me

IMG_4026_zpsesi2kxjv.jpg

IMG_4025_zpsuesbgnm8.jpg

IMG_4024_zpsdscwo3xb.jpg

 

Did a compression test and found that most cylinders were good and close together in PSI (130-140) which seemed fine for not having run in a while, but then cylinder 1 was only getting 60PSI....dang  not sure what would cause that.  Cracked ring? Way off valve settings or burnt valve?

 

Then the guy tells me that when they towed it to his place on a dolly (rear wheels on ground) that they didn't disconnect the drive shaft....so that might have toasted the trans right?

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Then the guy tells me that when they towed it to his place on a dolly (rear wheels on ground) that they didn't disconnect the drive shaft....so that might have toasted the trans right?

 

If it is a manual trans, and it was in neutral, there is zero chance of damage from doing that. And I don't think anyone is crazy enough to try and tow one in gear.   ^_^

 

 There is no reason to pull a driveshaft on a manual trans Datsun. With the possible exception of, it's a really long tow, and the transmission has no fluid in it. 

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