datzenmike Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I've come to the conclusion that at least one of my front bearings is growling. '76 710 with '84 Maxima front struts and brakes. I can't see why, as I greased the shit out of them when I installed the struts a few years ago and can't have more than 5K miles on them. I checked and I have a set of '77 710 struts and inner and outer bearings are the same as the Maxima. So I removed them and they are tapered roller and seem to be riding against the mating taper surface inside the hub. Is this right or does that mating surface need to be driven out? Or can it even be removed? I've replaced a bearing on an old chev and you have to drive out this shell or outer race that the rollers ride against. This way the bearing can be toast but the hub is fine. Everything is covered with grease and hard to see. Please tell me these outer races just need to be drifted out. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Yes. Inner and outer bearings have races that are pressed into the hub. New bearings come with the outer races. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 You should try the search feature here at Ratsun. I hear it's real good for these types of issues. Seriously though, ya, just drive them out and drive the new ones in. A press with the right size dies is great, but, you can drift them. Just don't put your old bearing on the new race and start beating the shit out of it trying to drive it in. You will destroy your new race. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Most hubs I've ever worked on are pretty similar to this...... 3 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I think Mike filled up on Datsun info and now it's starting to overflow. Datsun CRS :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 You should try the search feature here at Ratsun. I hear it's real good for these types of issues. Seriously though, ya, just drive them out and drive the new ones in. A press with the right size dies is great, but, you can drift them. Just don't put your old bearing on the new race and start beating the shit out of it trying to drive it in. You will destroy your new race. I like to take out the old race, cut a slice/slot through it with a cutoff wheel, then use that to press the new race in...perfect size "die" every time and then it comes right out because of the slice/slot. A piece of largish diameter allthread, nuts, and heavy washers makes a good press for this. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 You should try the search feature here at Ratsun. I hear it's real good for these types of issues. I like this part. Last year on the Canby trip I noticed a pronounced 'growl' from the front right side. It goes away on left turn curves and is pronounced on right. Figured tire. This year I notice a faint growl when rolling to a stop, almost like a rubbing brake shoe on drum . I haven't done a Datsun one before, or else there wasn't room to keep that memory. I tried a few taps on the one I have but thought it best to consult the experts who have. I want to be ready Saturday when I take everything apart.... Now that I think of it my 620 spent a season in the rain going through DEEP water and in the spring the bearing were growling from water in the oil. I changed them but may have just swapped another hub on.... The plan is to just swap the spare 710 bearings into the Maxima hubs, if needed. It was dark and the hub is still covered in grease. Thank you all for comments I needed and deserved that. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Drop the entire hub in a bucket of SuperClean, rinse off tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Bearings are cheap, put new ones in, do the job once and done. Don't forget new seals also. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Bearings are cheap, put new ones in, do the job once and done. Don't forget new seals also. The cheapest ones aren't worth the effort. At least get a decent brand...SKF, Koyo, NSK, National 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Bearings are cheap, put new ones in, do the job once and done. Don't forget new seals also. Canby is too close for that. The used ones are Nissan original. Still have to find out if that's the problem. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Last year on the Canby trip I noticed a pronounced 'growl' from the front right side. It goes away on left turn curves and is pronounced on right. Sound like the inside bearing is shot. And don't be a cheap ass. Just go get some new stuff. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 I like to take out the old race, cut a slice/slot through it with a cutoff wheel, then use that to press the new race in...perfect size "die" every time and then it comes right out because of the slice/slot. That's good shit right there. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Mike....there is a chance that your axle nut is looser than it should be. I've had that happen before. When the bearings are allowed to spread a bit, the hub can tilt and make rubbing/grinding noises...typically, the rotor is touching something. Jack the wheel up with the tire still on and give it a wiggle. If you feel any wiggle, that's probably what it is since you have struts and they don't typically get a wiggle like kingpins do. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Thanks mike I'll try that before tearing it apart. I put new rotors on the hub before putting the struts on the car. Bearings were washed and well packed with good grease. Maybe I set it too loose. All I have is the 610 FSM and it says tighten to 20 ft lbs, rotate rotor forward and back. Turn spindle nut back (loosen) 60 degrees, put cap on and tighten until any groove aligns with the cotter pin hole. There is a procedure for not having a torque wrench. Says tighten with wrench, spin wheel both ways, loosen nut, put a socket on and turn by hand till tight. That would be wrist tight. Instal cap and cotter pin. Again thanks, I feel better about this now. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22974-510-front-brake-vids/ I guess I've never put these up on youtube....might have to do that. Anyway....there's a vid in here of how I tighten up the axle nut.....should work just fine for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 http://s88.photobucket.com/user/mklotz70/media/How%20to/510%20front%20brake%20vids/100_5639.mp4.html 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Genius! Thanks so much. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Well, Maxima outer bearing race on right, spare used 710 on left that I installed this morning BAD GOOD The inner larger bearing was... meh, better but again not as good as the spare 710 one I had, and as I was already into it I swapped both. . Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Those look a bit cooked. Should just replace everything and be done with it... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 No time. Canby won't wait for parts to come in. I put the 710 bearings in and will drive it around this afternoon. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 That's pretty wild!! I'm not sure I've ever seen debris fused into the race like that. Usually, the get black and scratched up, but you had tons of metal debris pounded into the race by the rollers. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 My only experience was the 620 bearings. They got water in them. They didn't rust but they pitted cleanly like someone had used a tiny Dremel and ground lots of small pits in them. I can't tell if bumps or pits, you can't feel anything. Drove into town and the right hand turn sound (slight growl or rumble) is gone. Looking at those pictures, they do look more like little bumps, now. These are '84 Maxima bearings, seals and hubs. I may not have looked very close at the outer races when I was installing them. I cleaned the hub out and filled with fresh grease. Last year (after 10 hours of driving you get bored and start hearing the heart beat of your Datsun) on the way to Canby thought I could hear something. On the return it was definitely a sound, seemingly from front right side. Deluded myself into thinking a damaged tire and why I got them thrown in with the rims when I bought them. Mike, thanks for the vids I followed it and everything came apart and together just fine. Matt the cutting of the old race and using it to punch the new ones in worked like a charm, thanks. 2 Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 A little late, but good reference. Bearing Damage Analysis for Tapered Roller Bearings - Timken https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVuReXrZ8Mg 3 Quote Link to comment
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