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Low beams are constantly on


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I've got a 72 510 wagon and I can't get the low beam headlights to turn off unless I unplug them.  All other lighting is working properly, high beams, turn signals, parking lights......Any Ideas???  I've cleaned the turn signal switch but have not checked out the main headlight switch yet.  Fuse box is new.  Thanks in advance for any ideas

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Can't be the relay as power is fed to the relay from the headlamp switch...you can simply turn them off.

 

Unplug the headlamp switch and they should go out. If so, the switch is faulty. You can bend back the clips on the outer case and get inside them. I've done this on switches before. The copper contacts can corrode. OR replace it.

 

If unplugging the headlamp switch fails to turn them off the only other thing it could be is the 'flash to pass' relay or switch. This is a position on the Hi/Low lever. When pulled back towards driver it flashes all headlamps. This is a great warning device for oncoming drivers as you don't have to grope for the headlamp switch and then select and flash the high beams. You simply toggle the lever and they flash.

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Well, with the headlight switch unplugged, I still have low beams on.....so is there an actual relay that is hooked into the turn signal/high beam stalk?  If that's what you were talking about Mike?

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Normally there is no power to the lamps unless the headlight switch is pulled. Then there is power to both sides of the hi and low. Hi or low is selected through the headlamp relay which grounds one or the other to turn them on. So if you have a headlight on and the headlamp switch is unplugged... it is getting power from somewhere else.

 

Your hi and low beam switch on the column.... it moves toward the dash for hi and back towards the driver for low beams??? Can you pull it towards you? and when released it returns to the low beam position??? This is the flash to pass switch.

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Yes, the switch operates the high beam lights when pulled towards the driver but it doesn't seem to have a flash to pass unless you manually flick it forward again to low beams?  I'm a little stumped on this one

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So would you think my problem lies in the signal/high beam switch on the column or somewhere else?  I've gone over most of the wiring harness and although stock, it appears to be in good shape and not hacked into 

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As far as I know the lights are stock type old school. I'll give them a closer look when I get home though. The harness is all stock. I've had this problem since I bought the car.

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Ok, 

 

whats BRAND lamps do you have?

take a picture of the wire and the lamps.
I bet they are a european type and once the housing is grounded to the chassi the ligghts come on.

this is my 1st guess. otherwise go back to Datzenmike

you just buy this car? or was fine before??????????

 

OK, so I checked the headlights and they are all 4 General Electric Halogens.  As stated before, all the wiring is stock and in good condition for what it is.  

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maybe for shits and grins you can pull the lamp away from the housing (grounding the lamp and see if stays on.

 

or you can get a test light and what ever of the 3 prongs dont light up with the test light then that the side that is grounded and completeting the circut as 510 are connected to the + side of battery(when using a grounded test light) 

then once you know the grounded wire you can work your way back.

 

youdidnt disconnect or recoonect any wires under the glove bax and maybe mismatch the plugs?

 

 

as mention above also id pull the relay and or connector depending what relay type you have. some its a wired relay soem 510s just a relay you pull(can type)

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maybe for shits and grins you can pull the lamp away from the housing (grounding the lamp and see if stays on.

 

or you can get a test light and what ever of the 3 prongs dont light up with the test light then that the side that is grounded and completeting the circut as 510 are connected to the + side of battery(when using a grounded test light) 

then once you know the grounded wire you can work your way back.

 

youdidnt disconnect or recoonect any wires under the glove bax and maybe mismatch the plugs?

 

 

as mention above also id pull the relay and or connector depending what relay type you have. some its a wired relay soem 510s just a relay you pull(can type)

 

Thanks Banzai.  I'll try the above to see if it helps.  I did check with the test light and the top prong on the plug is the one not lighting(the wire is RB)....

 

I haven't messed with any of the wiring other than what's been discussed here and everything else seems to work ok.  

 

The relay is an original that has 6 pins.  Are you recommending i pull it to see if the lows go out?  If so, they do when I remove it from the system

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The relay is an original that has 6 pins.  Are you recommending i pull it to see if the lows go out?  

 

yes

 

we (Ratsun)on here can figure out if its before or after the relay)

 

If goes out I assume before the relay.

Shit you can do it with the switch on the dash also. Might be able to reach behind there and just pull the connector.(well what Mike said)

 

 

But rememeber if you did anyhting earlier you got to tell us. That means running a shit metal screw into something or anything that was changed recently

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I opened up the relay and it appears someone has been in there attempting repairs at some point.  I'm curious if this could cause my problem and if there's any way to test if it is?  I know I'll need to use a newer type relay if i end up needing a replacement.  Obviously the flat 6 pin relay connector won't work, but does anyone make an adapter pigtail or know where I could get the connectors to build one? 

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The lights do go out when the relay is pulled.  I haven't done anything electrically with the car.  just been getting the fuel system squared away really is all I've done to it.  It came to me with this lighting condition......

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Be honest I never open up a relay before But i did stay at a Holiday Inn express once.

I just swap them out as I have a bunch of them but my 510s have 2 types. One is a realy with a samll harness to a connector and the other is just a relay that pluges in.

My friend Eric open and clean the contacts on his 510 and got his working after swapping out the relays.said it was ez. But since you had this proplem How you drive the car and leave it ect

 

 

I assume both lamps stay on to it has to be a commmon feed that goes to them.

Im thinking at realy or before is the issue.

 

really need to find the color codes and troubel shoot the wire bundles separate after you look at the relay.

I think the relay is just a pass thru when its in LOW. meaning the relay doesnt do anything it gets the ground from the main switch in dash but I could be guessing.

 

Datzenmike can fill in the rest or soembody else on here. got to go

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Thanks for the help.  I'll get it figured out eventually I hope.    I'm not driving it currently.  I'm trying to get a bunch of little stuff squared away and cleaned up as it was sitting for about 10 years before i bought it

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OK. Power from the fusible link goes to the headlight switch and no farther until the headlight switch is pulled all the way out. In this position power no goes to two fuses in the fuse box. One fuse powers both left headlamps the other the right side. The headlamp relay provides a path to ground for either both high beams or both low beams but can't do both.

 

Here's an oddity... if your parking lamps are not working the headlamp relay is without power and remains in the low beam position. But regardless,  you cannot have ANY headlamps if the headlamp switch is off or unplugged.... period!

 

Some research shows the 'flash to pass' is an option and only flashes the driver's side headlamps into the side mirror of the car you are overtaking. So lets forget this thing for now.

 

 

 

Was this working properly? and just gone bad or has it been sitting this way for the ten years?

 

Do you have, or did you have after market fog or extra driving lamps wired in. They may be gone but the wiring still there to see??

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OK. Power from the fusible link goes to the headlight switch and no farther until the headlight switch is pulled all the way out. In this position power no goes to two fuses in the fuse box. One fuse powers both left headlamps the other the right side. The headlamp relay provides a path to ground for either both high beams or both low beams but can't do both.

 

Here's an oddity... if your parking lamps are not working the headlamp relay is without power and remains in the low beam position. But regardless,  you cannot have ANY headlamps if the headlamp switch is off or unplugged.... period!

 

Some research shows the 'flash to pass' is an option and only flashes the driver's side headlamps into the side mirror of the car you are overtaking. So lets forget this thing for now.

 

 

 

Was this working properly? and just gone bad or has it been sitting this way for the ten years?

 

Do you have, or did you have after market fog or extra driving lamps wired in. They may be gone but the wiring still there to see??

 

OK Mike.  I'm following what you're saying.  The headlight switch is still unplugged completely.  All parking lights/taillights are working with the exception of the left front parker but I don't see that as an issue with this (probably a bulb or poor connection).  I purchased the car with this issue but don't know how long it has been a problem.  The P.O. couldn't remember anything about it.  

 

I will check for any fog or driving light hookups.

 

 The only things I can tell it has had added at any point wiring-wise is an electric fan(which works properly)  and a very old school cassette stereo in dash (which does not work).  It also was equipped with an under dash original style A/C unit at one point but that has long been removed

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