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new timing rattle


bryant2482

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Did you replace the two guides when the chain was renewed?

Betcha you forgot the spring in the tensioner

These two are highly probable to be the cause.

 

Also, if sufficient tension isnt kept on the chain when installed, coupled with an appropriate "wedge" to hold the tensioner in, its very likely the tensioner has popped out of its housing, hence the rattle.

 

Time to rip the timing cover off methinks.

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But if the chain was just replaced the tensioner out of it's housing would be noticed. I was thinking the tensioner should be pushed back in it's housing and the slack side guide shoved as far to the left as you can before tightening the two guide mounting bolts. this removes the most slack from the chain.

 

 

I've heard 720 owners say this is the Z series telling you it's time for an oil change.

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Well you could change the oil to something thicker than 10W30. I run 15W40 but only drive in the summer. Another way to boost idle oil pressure is to instal a high output KA24E oil pump. I just get them from early 240sx or any KA powered D-21 Hardbody. Even a used one jumped my hot idle oil pressure from 17 to 29 PSI.

 

I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to pop the valve cover off and visually inspect things for something loose.

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So I hear but they are rarer and older where the D-21 is common.  Also only used on automatics with the oil cooler. Never had one apart so can't verify they have the longer rotors inside. The 240sx KA24E and all KA E or DE truck ones do for sure. I've run them in every L and Z series engine I have had

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Similar oil pressure as the ka pump or better?

 

It's extra volume that it puts out. The pressure relief valve is set to a similar 50-60 PSI. You can shim it for more pressure but you can't have more pressure at idle. The thing is that at idle the oil bleeds from all the bearing faster than the pump can supply the oil so the pressure drops. The KA pump rotors are 13% longer and can push more oil with each turn so the pressure is higher.

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So I hear but they are rarer and older where the D-21 is common.  Also only used on automatics with the oil cooler. Never had one apart so can't verify they have the longer rotors inside. The 240sx KA24E and all KA E or DE truck ones do for sure. I've run them in every L and Z series engine I have had

 

They were over the counter for a long time.

Still available

http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?nissan/1981/280zx/gl-turbo/2.8l-l6/allb/engine/cylinder-block-components/engine-oil-pump/pagenum1/tabs

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It's extra volume that it puts out. The pressure relief valve is set to a similar 50-60 PSI. You can shim it for more pressure but you can't have more pressure at idle. The thing is that at idle the oil bleeds from all the bearing faster than the pump can supply the oil so the pressure drops. The KA pump rotors are 13% longer and can push more oil with each turn so the pressure is higher.

 

75 psi if I remember right

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Bore worn past the limit of a quick hone and ring job. Pistons are rattling until bore expands.

Pistons put in backwards. Pin offset now not on the thrust side and piston rattles.

Forged pistons rattle until they expand at normal operating temperature.

 

I run Chevron Delo 400 or Shell RotellaT 15W40. If breaking in the engine run it until it is and then change it. Try and find out if your oil filter has an anti drain back feature.... and change it too.

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