bryant2482 Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Is it common for a brand new timing chain and tensioner to make a "rattle" type noise? It really only happens when the engine is cold and around 1300-1700 rpm's 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Did you replace the two guides when the chain was renewed? 1 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Betcha you forgot the spring in the tensioner 1 Quote Link to comment
Ratwagon1600 Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Did you replace the two guides when the chain was renewed? Betcha you forgot the spring in the tensionerThese two are highly probable to be the cause. Also, if sufficient tension isnt kept on the chain when installed, coupled with an appropriate "wedge" to hold the tensioner in, its very likely the tensioner has popped out of its housing, hence the rattle. Time to rip the timing cover off methinks. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 But if the chain was just replaced the tensioner out of it's housing would be noticed. I was thinking the tensioner should be pushed back in it's housing and the slack side guide shoved as far to the left as you can before tightening the two guide mounting bolts. this removes the most slack from the chain. I've heard 720 owners say this is the Z series telling you it's time for an oil change. 2 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 The spring holds the tension,until oil pressure rises,usually(in the past from I have worked on) the spring is bad or MIA 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Well you could change the oil to something thicker than 10W30. I run 15W40 but only drive in the summer. Another way to boost idle oil pressure is to instal a high output KA24E oil pump. I just get them from early 240sx or any KA powered D-21 Hardbody. Even a used one jumped my hot idle oil pressure from 17 to 29 PSI. I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to pop the valve cover off and visually inspect things for something loose. 2 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 ZXT oil pumps work well too 1 Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Similar oil pressure as the ka pump or better? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 So I hear but they are rarer and older where the D-21 is common. Also only used on automatics with the oil cooler. Never had one apart so can't verify they have the longer rotors inside. The 240sx KA24E and all KA E or DE truck ones do for sure. I've run them in every L and Z series engine I have had 1 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Similar oil pressure as the ka pump or better? If memory serves, little bit higher 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Similar oil pressure as the ka pump or better? It's extra volume that it puts out. The pressure relief valve is set to a similar 50-60 PSI. You can shim it for more pressure but you can't have more pressure at idle. The thing is that at idle the oil bleeds from all the bearing faster than the pump can supply the oil so the pressure drops. The KA pump rotors are 13% longer and can push more oil with each turn so the pressure is higher. Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 So I hear but they are rarer and older where the D-21 is common. Also only used on automatics with the oil cooler. Never had one apart so can't verify they have the longer rotors inside. The 240sx KA24E and all KA E or DE truck ones do for sure. I've run them in every L and Z series engine I have had They were over the counter for a long time. Still available http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?nissan/1981/280zx/gl-turbo/2.8l-l6/allb/engine/cylinder-block-components/engine-oil-pump/pagenum1/tabs 1 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 It's extra volume that it puts out. The pressure relief valve is set to a similar 50-60 PSI. You can shim it for more pressure but you can't have more pressure at idle. The thing is that at idle the oil bleeds from all the bearing faster than the pump can supply the oil so the pressure drops. The KA pump rotors are 13% longer and can push more oil with each turn so the pressure is higher. 75 psi if I remember right 2 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Can always shim aswell. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Spring is inside tensioner, chain guides are brand new and I also put in a ka oil pump. Oh and the oil only has about 20 miles of use. I'm just wondering if it needs to properly break in Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 That leaves... I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to pop the valve cover off and visually inspect things for something loose. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Did that too. Chain is very tight, there isn't any play in the guides either. Maybe a thicker oil is probably the way to go Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Or it isn't the chain. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 What else could it possibly be?! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Bore worn past the limit of a quick hone and ring job. Pistons are rattling until bore expands. Pistons put in backwards. Pin offset now not on the thrust side and piston rattles. Forged pistons rattle until they expand at normal operating temperature. I run Chevron Delo 400 or Shell RotellaT 15W40. If breaking in the engine run it until it is and then change it. Try and find out if your oil filter has an anti drain back feature.... and change it too. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Oh wow! Well whatever it was its gone now Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 You removed the timing chain wedge when you were done...... right? 1 Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 oh i never had a wedge put in. i disassembled the entire engine. never needed the wedge Quote Link to comment
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