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The "CHG" light comes on the first time I connect a good batter. Then CLICKS and shorts out on first crank.


2050-Z

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Hoping someone can help me with an electrical issue I'm having in my '77 280z.

 

This is a car that I've had for a while and has never been a daily driver under my ownership. It was a barn find I was going to use for the really nice black interior, but I ended up not needing it. It presents nicely, so now I'm planning on selling it after getting it running.

 

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  • I used to start it every month or two and drive it around a bit. 
  • A year ago I accidentally used the wrong key in the ignition. The key became stuck, I couldn't deal with it at the time, and it sat for some time. 
  • I've now disassembled the lock mechanism and was able to remove the key.
  • I can now turn the ignition either with a screwdriver and the "ignition switch" piece, or by connecting the entire lock mechanism and using the key.
  • I have not yet reconnected the loch mechanism to the steering column.
  • I have connected a  new red top battery. Plenty of juice.
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So, I connect the new battery. Turn ignition to the first position. The Orange "CHG" light comes on:

 

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  • Orange CHG light is on.
  • Car beeps 5 times or so (seatbelt reminder?)
  • I try to start the car.
  • Makes a single loud "CLICK".
  • Does not crank. "It's dead".
  • Orange light is now off.
  • I cannot get the orange light to come back on. Removing key, turning ignition back, etc. does not work.
  • Connections on the battery look fine and tight.
  • If I remove the battery and fool around with things for 5 minutes, the light comes back on for the next time. Not sure exactly what fixes it.

 

I should note that when the orange light is NOT on, the car is "dead". No seatbelt alarm. Does not crank, etc. Let me know if I can provide any other information.

 
QUESTIONS:

 

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  • Is there some kind of security lockout due to the lock mechanism not being installed?
  • Has anyone experienced this loud click + short before?
  • I notice the 2 wires below in my wiring harness. Now not connected to anything. Not sure if they ever were. Would these be an issue?
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P.S. What is the function of the CHG light? 

 

What???????????

 

its a IDIOT LIGHT that tells you something is bad.

 

best to do a test if you have it running whats the voltage is???

 

ck the fuses and clean the connections.aand at the starter

A stuck key isn't going to cause a issie unless the battery was draining and you didn't not it at the time and don't hold a charge.

to me the seliniod or battery is weak or a bad battery connection

 

the chargelight should come on on first turn of the key

 

 

ps if you kill a redtop optima they will not hold a charge. they suck nobody buys them anymore

 

 

Im not a Z expert but maybe the highbeam trigger wires?

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Have you tried another battery?  Red tops used to be good, now they suck.  The charge light is hooked up to your alternator and will come on with the engine off, until the engine is running and the alternator excites, turning off the light.  The light on with the ignition in the run position but not running is normal operation.

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It sounds like you have a bad battery ground and/or chassis ground.

 

Most recent time I had that issue was with my SBC Jag, had to replace the ground cable for the batt. and add another ground strap.

 

 

CHG is Charge, it come on when you first turn the key normally.
Itl tell you the alt isnt charging if it comes on while its running. 

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The charge light is wired to come on when the key is first turned to on, not only to show the alternator isn't charging (as the engine isn't running yet) but also to show the driver that the bulb is working and not burned out. On Datsuns the bulb MUST be working to draw current through the alternator field coil to generate a small magnetic field so the spinning magnets induce a current in the stator windings. Once started, the power generated is way more than needed to make the magnetic field, run all the accessories and lights and re-charge the battery. The output is regulated by the aptly named voltage regulator. On a '77 the regulator is external and from '78 on is inside the alternator. Output for the '77 is about 50/60 amps at 14+ volts or about 700 watts. It takes power to make power.

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Great, thanks for the info. I will re-check the battery cables and terminals to make sure everything is tight.

 

The Optima Red Top is new and unrelated to the battery that was in this car when it sat. I bought it specifically for being a Dry Cell battery to install in my other Z. If everyone had used dry cell batteries in the 70s we'd have a lot less Datsuns with rusted out battery trays! Seems to be working fine for me... is there a better dry cell brand?

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Also batteries have come a long way in 45 years. Back in '68 you had to check batteries monthly and top up each cell with distilled water. There were 6 cells with removable caps on them. They out gassed when charging and it was common for the acid inside to fizz out and get on the tops. Any wonder the battery trays and anything near them corroded? In the early '70s 'maintenance free' batteries came out. They were really 'less maintenance' but an improvement.

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Today's "Maintenance Free" batteries come to you as the byproduct of the MinuteMan missile system!  They are "Lead Calcium" technology.  After all, you could not afford to have maintenance crews travel out to one thousand launch sites and one hundred launch control sites every 30 days to check all the banks of battery cell levels and top them off.

 

P.S. today's integrated circuits are also a Minuteman bonus!

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is it weird that I remember having batteries like that and being taught to check the water in your battery? 

 

Not at all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

... you're just old.

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