amiranda00 Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hi Everyone, So I recently purchased an automatic 1981 210 hatchback and I knew I would have to put work into it, well more so my brother and me assisting. It is a baby blue color with same color leather interior. The body is in very good condition and so is the interior, so aesthetically it's pretty nice. This will be my first project (I also have limited knowledge of cars )and my brother has fixed up his own cars in the past, all of them have been Toyota Celicas, I will ask details when he gets home.The car has mostly all original parts to it, apart from replaced: intake manifold gasket replacement, distributor replacement, adjust timing, carb install, fuel filter, new spark plugs, coolant bypass hose installed, fuel line replacement, replaced old vacuum lines, and brake booster hose replaced. This is according to previous owner. The car had belonged to a little old lady previous to this guy therefore making me the 3rd owner. It runs, but as you accelerate it feels like the car wants to stall (sometimes it does) and if you mess with the acceleration when it does begin to so that you can prevent it from stalling if you rev it some and it kinks it out of it. It continues to do this for a while until its been driving around for about 5 min the first few times it was driven, to ~15min as of now.I shall post pictures of it tomorrow, but I just wanted to make this post to start getting ideas asap. Also let me know what information is needed, pictures, etc, to get a better idea of the car and what's wrong. Any help is much appreciated! ^_^ **Also let me know of forum etiquette I should be aware of… [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://[/url">] [/url]">http://[/url">] [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// Okay with this picture, I will show a hose I noticed that is hooked up to nothing. I am not sure what it is and why it's not hooked up to anything.Here is the original photo: [/url]">http:// Here is the same photo with a circle around the hose: [/url]">http:// Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hi amiranda and welcome to Ratsun. 210s are fun small little cars and being small and light small changes ereally improve the performance and handling too. Here's a link for info on posting pictures of your 210, they are always welcome.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54932-photobucket-ratsun/ The stuttering on acceleration could be a dirty fuel filter. Only $6-7 to find out. Quote Link to comment
amiranda00 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Okay so I have been reading around and I think I have better ways of describing what happens. 1.) The car has high rpm when it idles as well as it accelerates kind of fast without me needing to push the gas pedal (more than I am used to anyway with other cars). 2.) When I come to a full stop and need to accelerate the car sometimes stalls as if losing power when I step on the gas (that's what it feels like). 3.) When trying to accelerate past 35mph the engine revs at high rpm and the engine gets really loud but eventually falls back down. If you pump the gas pedal rather than push it down the entire time then the car accelerates a lot better without the high rpm. The pedal even feels like it gets stuck at a certain point and that's when you pump it out of that 'stuck' place. Or you can just wait to push the engine until the rpm drops down and the pedal magically gets 'unstuck.' From what I have read online, suggestions were to change the fuel filter to see if that helps with the stalling and it didn't, although it stalls a lot less but it didn't fix the problem. So, another thought was the catalytic converter is blocked. Any thoughts?As for the high rpm, I am thinking it's something with the transmission. But a lot of what I read is about manual and not automatic so they talk about the clutch giving out. So I am at a loss with the high rpm thing. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 When the engine is first started cold an automatic choke comes on the richen up the fuel mixture, a fast idle is also added to speed the warm up time. Once warm (about 10 min of driving) the choke slowly come off and the idle reduces and it drives normally. Or should. On a cold engine before starting, step on the gas once and then take the top off the air filter and look in. The choke plate should be fully closed on the engine side of the carburetor. After 15-20 min of driving take the top off and you should see that the choke plate is now vertical and fully open. Check this. If still closed or part closed the choke is not releasing. It could simply be stuck or the choke heater not working. Quote Link to comment
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