Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 I converted my 521 to matchbox a couple years ago. It seems to work fine; much better, more responsive than the points. Yesterday I put a matchbox in my 70 510. After going back and re-reading posts on swapping, I got it hooked up and running (after removing oil pump and rotating one tooth). Today I planned to get new plugs/wires. I dawns on me that ok would probably not get the stock plugs now that I've changed the distributor and coil. I didn't see this mentioned in the posts I've read. What plugs, wires and plug gap should I use? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Use the same plugs, NGK BP6ES, probably. The NGK RC-NE64 plugh wire set fits nicely. You can run a slightly larger plug gap, maybe .040 to .050. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 NGK plugs only, wires, cap and rotor from any matchbox distributor should work. If you get me the number stamped on the dizzy body I can tell you what year and model it's out of and you can order those parts and plugs. It's 22100-????? Stock plug gap on the 521 is probably 0.032". Some EI plugs have an increased gap (0.038" to 0.042") to take advantage of the fatter spark. My 78 620 FSM says BP6ES-11 for USA. The 11 means 1.1mm or 0.044" gap. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 The match box unit requires the wide gap NGK plugs, BPR6ES-11, do not use the reg plugs @.032", they will fail quickly. Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thanks for the great information. They had the BP6es plugs in stock. So I put those in after work (set at 0.04). They ordered the wires, distributor cap and rotor. But, the funny thing is, after I put in the matchbox, it won't start with engine cranking. As soon as you let off the starter it starts. I'm going to check battery charge and altenator. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Check the wiring from the module to the coil. Look at the module, looks like the letter "T"; top of the "T; looks like a minus (-) sign, it goes to the negative side of the coil. Get the right plugs soon, they will work better. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 But, the funny thing is, after I put in the matchbox, it won't start with engine cranking. As soon as you let off the starter it starts. I'm going to check battery charge and altenator. You need both the ignition On and the START wire connected to the coil+ and the module. Sounds like you only have the ON wire. During cranking there is no spark until the key returns to ON. Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Per the instructions on the post (I think it was "lose the points"), I ran a new hot wire from the pos coil to the "c" on the matchbox. I ran a new neg wire from the neg coil to the B side of matchbox. I connected the existing black-with-white wire to pos side of coil as well. On the old ballast resistor there was a black/white wire and a black/blue wire. The black/blue goes to nothing now. There were originally three wires all connected to the post on the points distributor. They are all disconnected and go to nothing now (per the swap post I read). I took some before pictures. I'll take some pics of it now and try to post them. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 The "B" terminal on the matchbox goes to the Battery positive. The "C" terminal goes to coil minus. Wiring diagram. You must run an extra wire to the cylinder head from the body of the matchbox distributor to the head. I run that wire to one of the small bolts that hold the head to the front, or cam chanin cover. The wiring diagram above uses the stock 521 points type coil. If you use the matchbox electronic ignition coil, I believe you just tie the black with red wire to the black with white wire, at the coil. On a stock 521, black with white wire supplies electricity to the coil when the key is in run position. Black with Red supplies power when the key is in crank, or start position. 1 Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Great diagram. This one is actually a 510. I'll have to go back and check my 521 too. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I sure hope you got the good higher capacity wires Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Black/blue and black/white to positive coil. Black/blue is cranking power, black/white is ignition power. Some 510 ignition switches supply power to both the blue and white wire while cranking, some do not. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Jacob, this is what I thought on my 710. Sometimes it cranks and only fires when I release the key. Most times it works ok. Maybe I turn the ignition key too hard? Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 regarding the wires, Yes, they ordered the wires mentioned in the post above. And, per the post above, I'll hook up both the black/blue and the black/white to the positive on the coil. Currently, {because of the directions on the other post} I only hooked up the black/white. I am out of town this week but can't wait to get home and make this change. Thanks for the tips. Ratsun members are beyond awesome. P.S. I have posted pics of the 510 in other posts but not this one. I'll post the obligatory pic. Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Here ya go Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 NGK plugs only, wires, cap and rotor from any matchbox distributor should work. If you get me the number stamped on the dizzy body I can tell you what year and model it's out of and you can order those parts and plugs. It's 22100-????? The one in my 510 is N8502 The one in my 521 is B9802 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 The one in my 510 is N8502 The one in my 521 is B9802 22100-N8502...... '80 S110 (200sx) non California four plug matchbox dizzy 22100-B9802...... '79 620 or '80 720 matchbox dizzy Quote Link to comment
Oregon_PLG222 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks Datsunmike. Did you see the question I posted this afternoon about my alternator wiring? I figured you would likelykniw that one as well. Quote Link to comment
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