btd19m Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 ive been looking at something like this (50 inch) or 2 6 inch light bars where the spot lights were before i bought her. its all wired up already for spot lights. 1 Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted May 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 i do have a set of hid light force 240's but im worryed like the spot lights it had they will be to much for the battery/alt to handle. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 A lot of people run those on their trucks. even the older sas Toyotas and they work fine. Get a higher amp alternator and you should be fine Oh, and just buy the Cree led ones off ebay. The name brand ones like KC or off summitracing.com are the same, just $200-400 USD more I'm thinking of getting a 24 in for my wagon because the brush guard I put on it blocks the high beams, so the center of the road is darker than the sides 1 Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted May 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 yeah. i have a stretch of road about 30km between work and my house and every night almost there's at least 10-15 cows and a bull or two on the highway. any ideas on alt? i have 2x 100 watt light force lights. it had 2x 35 watt lights on it but for some reason they would drain the battery. the light force lights are just bad. not even 10 minutes and the lighter socket stops working and wont start working till about 10 minutes after i turn them off and they go super dim. second set of lights on my 720 don't work sadly. its earthing something chronic. in my rebuild thread i brought it up but i looked them over and stuck a volt meter on them and they get .86v each. the normal lights are on 12.1v bit upset about that at the moment. cant seem to find the problem yet. trailer plug earths as well. it has 11 wires out the back on a 5 pin plug. 2 from the dash 2 from the head lights. 2 from the cluster. 2 for for each blinker and i think the 11th wire (brown) is ground. i have running lights on my trailer so the head lights bring on the running lights at night. only ever towed it one time with the datsun and for less then 10m with no load and the jockey wheel down on the trailer.i was looking at the cree 50 inch bars. i know a guy at work who is selling 4 of them for 170$ each with the loom only reason hes selling is the bars are 240 watt bars and his alt cant handle it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Pathfinder or d21 hardbody alts are around 70-90 amps Also think about a second battery 1 Quote Link to comment
millican Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 What's the CRI of those? I'd like to avoid deer too and would also like to see more lights for road use with a higher color rendering index than HID or the bluish (6000K or so) LEDs that are used most often because they're cheaper and nobody seems to care if the light is crappy if it just puts out more of it. (the sky is blue, but daylight and deer aren't) It seems that all the lights with better color rendering are used in household lights more than automotive unfortunately, but you can replace the individual diodes if you're patient and have enough solder and flux. Are the additional lights you've tried on a relay of their own? 1 Quote Link to comment
Minesmith67 Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I have a 51 I mcg I'm about to put on my truck I will post pics 1 Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 What's the CRI of those? I'd like to avoid deer too and would also like to see more lights for road use with a higher color rendering index than HID or the bluish (6000K or so) LEDs that are used most often because they're cheaper and nobody seems to care if the light is crappy if it just puts out more of it. (the sky is blue, but daylight and deer aren't) It seems that all the lights with better color rendering are used in household lights more than automotive unfortunately, but you can replace the individual diodes if you're patient and have enough solder and flux. Are the additional lights you've tried on a relay of their own? The ones off of eBay look about 5500k-6500k. My buddy's has 3 watt leds 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 The LED light bars don't pull a lot of power. 1 Quote Link to comment
Minesmith67 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Don't buy alt. Led lights only need 5 volts to run you can ruin them off a dead battery which I have done Quote Link to comment
millican Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Did you mean "run" instead of "ruin"? You're still right in both cases. That is true that one of the LEDs in those types of lights needs only a few volts (around 3) to run. 4 LEDs in series will need the sum of those voltages, around 12. Think of these four LEDs as one group. Heat and current burn out LEDs, so the current needs to be limited. There is probably a resistor for each of these groups of 4 limiting the current. A light bar just has several of these groups in parallel. Often, the resistors that limit the current draw more power than the LEDs themselves, but more efficient drivers cost around $15 vs a few pennies for resistors. If you need several, the cost adds up. Putting more than an amp or so, which even a dead car battery can provide, to an LED without a resistor or driver will definitely ruin it.LED lighting has so much potential that's not being realized in the automotive industry. I can hardly wait to see what products hit the market for our cars when the market demands not just any light that's bright, but good lights as well. I'd like to see some artistic uses too (maybe some subtle amber light strips under the out-turned lip of a Datusn truck?) rather than what some manufacturers are doing - just throwing in some LEDs in the corners because it's a cool thing to do the way boobs get thrown into Game of Thrones episodes at random times. Wait. Maybe that's not really a bad thing after all. 1 Quote Link to comment
Huntin720 Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 2x100watt bars will draw 16amps total. Your battery fully charged is probably worth 40-55 Amp Hours. Which means that over a 20hr test it could drive 2amps for 20 hrs before dropping below the nominal voltage (usually around 10.5v). If the dropoff was linear then you could say that the battery would drive your lamp bars for 3 hours. It isn't linear though, capacity drops with increased rate of draw. So if we want to play it safe we cut the number in half (your battery manufacturer may have a chart that better predicts this) so you should be safe driving these LED's for an hour at least. That is of course if the only draw on the battery is the LED's. But the math also ingores the charge from your alternator. Someone else will have to chime in and let us know how many amps your alternator should provide and how many your motor is using. If two 35watt lights drain your batt quickly then I'd check out wiring. 2x35w=5.8A So you should be able to drive them for hours. You may have a short somewhere. Or you may need a new battery. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I freakin hate those light bars. All the flat billers here run them on lifted trucks. Why the fuck do they need them to run down the fwy ??? I understand why btd would want one. But for the city they are just stupid. Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 LED marker/turnsig conversion in front bumper...love em! H-4 conversion housings outer headlights. My co-pilot is eye-balling you! 1 Quote Link to comment
hellaflushed720 Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I'm mounting a bumper, grill, and reverse light led bar lights when finished will provide pics of the update 1 Quote Link to comment
hellaflushed720 Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Also I do have another truck with led light bars if you want a comparison of before an after as far as light output from the cheaper led bars 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 I freakin hate those light bars. All the flat billers here run them on lifted trucks. Why the fuck do they need them to run down the fwy ??? I understand why btd would want one. But for the city they are just stupid. I believe they are illegal to run on road in a lot of states. Most maybe. They are definitely awesome off-road though. Daytime anytime... 1 Quote Link to comment
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