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I can't seem to win. sr20 Maf problems


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Sr20de in my datsun 710, I've posted a couple times about this subject but have never had any luck ever thought I'd try again.

 

Three wires. The 2 in the shroud is signal and ground, the other is power wire.

I read that the middle wire on the plug/maf is always a ground on the 3 wire nissan mafs.

So with that info it should be easy to hook it up correctly...

When I hook it up the power wire is getting 12v (& car running 14v) the signal wire reads anywhere from 7v+

I was told that all the sensors are a 5v signal (5v being all the way open etc)

So if it's supposed to being 5v max that means my computer thinks it needs to spray a lot more fuel the it should correct? (Runs extremely rich)

So I thought well maybe I have the wires backwards so I switched the power & signal wire but this time it goes straight into limp mode & and runs a little less rich.

Right now I have a ka24de maf on there which is a little bit bigger from what I've read but it shouldn't be that much of a difference I would imagine. I've tried the sr20de maf also and the sr20det maf (which are supposedly really similar)

Bit if I use any other Maf beside the ka24de the motor will be in limp mode (no rps over 2-2500)

But if i use the ka24de MAF it runs great through the rpm range it just runs really really rich

 

(Back to saying there all 5v sensors I thought if i hooked up a 5v wire to the MAF for the power wire it might work and it ran way better just was in limp mode, and if I switched the signal/power wire it wouldn't run)

 

I'm assuming I have a wiring issue but it makes no sense to me. I've tried for months and unfortunately had to put the car on the back burner, anyone have any ideas I could try.

Kinda stumped on what to do, I just want it to run perfect before I bolt my turbo and everything else I have sitting in boxes in the trunk.

Any help in advance is greatly appreciated

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Could you explain how exactly to do that?

 

 

Should you be doing electrical work?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Click your meter to the ohms symbol.

One lead on MAF's ground; the other on a known good ground. Reading should be really close to 0.0 or 0.1.

 

This is the measurement for resistance/continuity.

 

 

My other concern-your spliced in A/F gauge.

 

I also think more detailed info about your set up is needed.

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I knew how to check it, I just wanted to make sure so I don't screw it up somehow.

As for that it was at 0.5 

 

As for the motor it is a imported motor, sr20de came with everything so it's all stock but the maf. So I got a ka24de maf, wired it all up and it runs good just always ran rich

My ecu # is 

       23710 65F00

A18-0000  G60    6Z18

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Have you let it warm up?

Does it still run rich when hot?

 

And you can only tell its rich because of your gauge?

It runs the same all the time cold or warm and I can confirm its rich because of the black clouds leaving my exhaust pipe. I'll see about getting one of those MAFs  for the ka24e instead of the ka24de that I'm using right now

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A bad fuel pressure regulator would/could cause a rich condition.

 

I'm running a generic fuel pump in the tank, I have my fuel pressure set to 43psi 

I used to have a bad regulator and it ran WAY richer, got a new one and it ran better just still super rich 

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