Toybomber Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Title says it all...... New clutch.... New throw out bearing..... New slave..... Gears 1-5 shift kind of Ok..... But R is grind till it drops into gear......clutch pedal is screwed out as far as I can get it. Any clues or advice?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Clutch is not fully disengaging. Clutch disc could be rubbing the pressure plate. New slave means the hydraulic system was open... air could have gotten in. Even after bleeding it may still have air in it. Not sure what "clutch pedal is screwed out as far as I can get it." means, but the pedal should have several mm or 1/8" of slack or free play. Push on the pedal with your thumb. It should have this amount of slack before the pedal begins to get firm. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 some cars dont like much ... bu i know if you hit first before reverse it lines up the synchros better fro engaement ... but its likely what mike says as well .... i have made it a practice to first then reverse..... ....dont have to let the clutch out just physically put the car in fist then reverse Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Reverse has no synchronizers. All then other gears do, Your clutch is dragging slightly, when the pedal is pushed in all the way. The synchronizers stop the clutch disk, the input shaft, and the cluster gear from spinning, shifting into first. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Well the slave should move 1.18" so you could measure it. If 3/4" then this is the problem. Probably air trapped. Was the original release bearing collar used or was one supplied with the new clutch and PP? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Hey I have a problem. So I have to back out of the garage every day. About 7/10 times when I shift from neutral to reverse it grinds a little then clicks in. I have no problem with 1-4. It also happens when I go from first to r. I'm completely stoped and the clutch is on the floor but it does it. What is killing me is I cant figure out why. The clutch is fully disengaged and if it wasn't the car would be moving a little right? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 See reply #4, above. Quote Link to comment
millican Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 To avoid the clunk or grind I get when putting it in reverse, I usually put it in reverse before starting it. (With the clutch in of course.) I know that there are times when you've been driving and still need to go into reverse, but it helps with most of my situations. Quote Link to comment
millican Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Also, for some reason, it grinds much more often if my wife is driving. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 There should be no grinding. When the clutch is depressed, the transmission oil quickly slows and stops the spinning gears. Sometimes if you are very quick to depress the pedal and jam it into reverse it may but normally it doesn't. If it grinds this means something is driving the gears all the time. Here's the problem when shifting the other gears. The synchro ring is actually a small clutch itself. It slows down the spinning gears up shifting and speeds them up on down shifts. If your clutch is dragging, this just adds to the work they do and wears them out sooner. Shifting without a clutch by speed matching the gears is for dopes. It's designed to work and should be used properly. You are not speed matching, you are getting it close enough for the synchro to do the final mating. Quote Link to comment
Toybomber Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Yes mike..... New bearing... Oh, and new master........ I'm thinking it needs more bleeding. Any tricks with bleeding the clutch hydrolics?? Quote Link to comment
Toybomber Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 The slave only moves about 3/4" or so Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?You can do it on the vehicle easier. Get a short length of brake or hydraulic line and tighten it onto the master. Bend the other end up and down into the master reservoir to recycle the fluid. Pump the clutch repeatedly and you may dislodge some trapped air. Noe put the hard line back on and procede to bleed the slave....Pump the clutch a couple of times and hold down. Open the slave bleeder to let fluid (and any air bubbles) out. Tighten the bleeder and now let the clutch up. Repeat several times or until only clear hydraulic fluid is coming out. Quote Link to comment
Toybomber Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 I reversed bleed it by pushing the slave push rod in sever times while watching the bubbles in the mc res. thought I had a pedal...... But I guess not. I'll keep working at it........ But right not my focus has turned to the body...... Welding, grinding, shaving, sanding etc....etc....etc. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 use the tried and true method of bleeding .... pump pump pump hold it, crack the bleeder ... repeat.. Quote Link to comment
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