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Jake's 320 Build


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#21 emceefarlane

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 05:27 PM

Thanks for the info Charlie69

 

 

off topic still with the studebaker but here's a quick pic i snapped last night

 

*edit not sure how to rotate it for the correct orientation

 

2r5fdz7.jpg



#22 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 06:44 PM

I like that red. It's like Coca-Cola red, like some of the early SBC's. Not gross Chevy orange...



#23 Charlie69

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 11:26 AM

Love the Studebaker!  That engine should get it to grocery store just fine.  There is a 65 Studebaker truck for sale in Kingman AZ.  I had a 51 Studebaker champion as a first car when I was 12.  Wish I still had it.



#24 difrangia

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 01:31 PM

Coulda, shoulda bought a nice SWB Champ like that a couple of years ago from a co-worker; & didn't. One of those kickin' my butt ever since, situations.

 

53 coupes are 'Top Shelf', timeless Raymond Lowey styling masterpieces.

 

 

 

1953%20Steude%20Left%20Rear_zpsqiriyht6.

 

 

 

1953%20Steude%20Front%20Right_zpslz4esyi

 

1953%20Steude%20Right%20Rear_zpsimfannzi

 

Take a look at EVERYBODY else's 1953 offerings.

 

Picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Steve



#25 emceefarlane

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 04:07 AM

carpet started going in 

 

j7pzqb.jpg

 

2wh4m0o.jpg

 

so much quieter already 



#26 emceefarlane

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Posted 01 June 2015 - 08:19 PM

door trims on

 

9jgf4p.jpg

 

carpet is in

 

51vl3b.jpg

 

I have sprayed the dash with this, hopefully it turns out alright.

 

http://www.vhtpaint....ts/wrinkleplus/



#27 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:36 AM

That should work fine.

 

Door panels look good.



#28 emceefarlane

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:16 PM

Thanks Stoffregen!

 

this damn shelf took me an hour to put back in because of the added thickness of kick panel and carpet

 

s5iis9.jpg

 

dash is in, paint turned out pretty good. Looks a little bit glittery from some angles but ah well

 

1z6fk41.jpg

 

More of an idea of the texture

 

egjs9.jpg

 

all that's left is the fiddly bits and to bleed the brakes - then should be back on the road while i sort out the head and MG manifold etc

 

 

also is there a way to change the topic title to just a more general build thread?

 

 

cheers



#29 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 04:34 PM

I like how the dash came out.



#30 emceefarlane

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 09:03 PM

finished off the dash and put the seat in 

 

6dzjg7.jpg

 

raox7t.jpg



#31 finney

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 04:38 AM

looks very tidy



#32 emceefarlane

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 04:57 AM

having trouble with the fuel pump at the moment

 

sourced an L series pump and tried to swap the arms over as mentioned in this thread

 

http://forums.nicocl...e1-t375572.html

 

the longer arm is the L one and the short is the E.

 

from the hole for the locator pin back - the E1 arm isn't long enough to reach the spindle from the diaphragm inside the pump

 

b4xh91.jpg

 

 

2qlx17d.jpg

 

so unless you can get E1 or J13 arms that are longer from the locator hole back or L series pumps with a larger diameter diaphragm spindle base - in my case this has not worked.

 

does anyone know of any other possible mods that will work? (local parts supplier does not have a listing for 320 520 or 521 fuel pumps)

 

gasket kits?

 

trying to avoid having to go electric



#33 Conner

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 07:23 AM

Thanks for posting about this problem.  I was planning to do the same arm swap--just haven't done it yet. 

So you put the E-series fuel pump arm into the L-series pump with the spring and pin and what happened?  Was it just loose or what? 

 

What brand of E fuel pump did you start with?  What brand L-series pump? 

 

Mine was a Nikki and I have reason to believe that it was actually a J13 fuel pump that had been swapped onto my engine.  Here is a pic of the (I believe) J13 fuel pump side by side with the L-series pump, whiuch is a Kyosan.  I was planning to swap the smaller arm with the larger one on the new pump. 

 

2013_08_10%20fuel%20pump%20%282%29.JPG

 

 

I wonder if it may be possible to swap the diaphram out of the L-series pump into your orginal fuel pump.  Rebuild it yourself with those parts.  Not sure if the parts interchange, but that may be the next step if this arm issue can't be resolved. 



#34 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 10:11 AM

WHy not try using the lower portion of the old pump with the new pump upper portion?



#35 Charlie69

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 07:54 PM

Not sure if this will help. I have purchased several items from this ebay seller and he is honest.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item33a4094192



#36 emceefarlane

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 11:54 PM

thanks charlie, might have to try that next. connor - the E arm doesn't go far back enough into the L pump to connect to spindle from the diaphragm. if i were you i'd do what stoffregen said and take the top assembly off the L pump and put it on your E as they look the same. my E and L pump look completely different - not the same diameter by a long shot.

i'll post pics when not on mobile

#37 difrangia

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:42 AM

How many bolts hold the top and bottom castings together on that older non-L pump; five or six?

 

I'm thinking that the earlier E1 had the pump with five bolts and had a priming ring on the side toward the cab. I have a good one and a bad one of these.

 

Also thinking that the later E1 and J13 had the pump with six bolts and no primer ring.

 

I'm thinking of getting an old J-Series pump and an L-Series and doing a little experimenting. If the L-Series will bolt up to the E and J-Series engine, a special lever just may be made that will allow the use of the L pump on the earlier motores. Imagine cutting the levers in half in the middle of the pin hole and splicing the longer pump side half of the L pump with the shorter engine half of the older pump. That's for visualization, I wouldn't want to take off on a trip with a pump lever spliced like that, but it could be spliced away from the pivot hole if the levers were solid metal or a new hybrid lever could be developed from virgin metal that would accomplish the adaptation.

 

Steve



#38 difrangia

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:47 AM

In referring back to the photos above, I can see that the levers are stamped and formed or riveted laminate construction. I'm still interested in playing around with this to have a backup. There are probably enough E and J-Series engines still running to justify coming up with a hybrid lever.

 

Main issue is: Does the L-Series pump bolt up to the E & J-Series engines ??



#39 Conner

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 08:01 AM

Both the Nikki pump I pulled off my E1 (which I believe is a J-series fuel pump) and the new L-series fuel pump I bought have five screws on the very top.  Four around the perimeter and one in the center.  

 

2013_08_10%20fuel%20pump%20(3).JPG

 

They also each have six screws that connect the base of the fuel pump to the upper section.  

 

I can also tell you that the fuel pump spacer that came off my E-engine absolutely does fit the L-series fuel pump.  And the new fuel pump gaskets I bought (Beck Arnley #039-2008) also fit perfectly on both those pumps.  In other words, the bolt pattern and flange shape/size is the same.  So I have every reason to believe that if the arm were the correct size you could bolt up the L-series pump to the E engine.  

 

Here's another problem.  New L-series fuel pumps are not as readily available as they once were.  I image rebuild kits will be out there for a while, but it isn't as easy to get the L-series pump anymore.  



#40 difrangia

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 03:41 PM

Just for reference, this is the E1 pump with the priming ring. Base housing and the pump casting are joined with only five screws and one screw holds the top cover on. Is this pump completely interchangable with the J13 pump?

 

Steve