Elkie's 77 King Cab

[Elkie]

Mounted

Also I flushed the condenser which was fairly clean, I also did the evaporator which requires pulling the expansion valve off. Pic here with new one.

This was first flush, did three total before it came out somewhat clean.

Make sure to rewrap expansion valve after reinstalling to prevent condensation getting to it.

[red13]

were do u get the fresh wrap to wrap the valve?

[sebpv]

Thats interesting that you work on the A/C system. Im actually learning that stuff for my trade. Here I even took a pic of what I just couple days ago. Its the most simplistic picture I could find. Although irrelevant to Datsuns...

Im not an expert, but I have troubleshooting tables, so if you have any questions feel free.

[Elkie]

Its prestite tape or rubber cork tape. can get it at o'reilly(59010) or autozone (mt0450)

[Seeker > 620 KC]

There are a lot of flush products out there. What product did you use? Easy?

[Elkie]

Used the flush a/c pro cqs-11 and rented a flush gun from autozone. Basically plug the gun to an air compressor, pour some cleaner in the bottle, and blow it in the reverse of normal a/c flow. Its good to do especially because it removes debris as well as any old mineral oil residue from the r12 system, since pag oil and mineral oil don't mix. The new compressor uses pag 46 oil.

[Elkie]

Working A/C...check  

next an electric fan

[heretic]

AWESOME build.... I have often thought that an AC compressor would fit in the smog pump location AND look much better than up high on the passenger side.

 

A+++ for you sir

[Elkie]

Thanks for the kind words, hopefully someone will find it helpful if they are wanting to add an a/c. While I'm thinking about it, the a/c bracket from a KA24DE mounts right up the the L20B block, the problem is the idler pulley isn't vbelt, but you could swap it out. Whether there's room for a compressor with the steering block I never checked.

[heretic]

helps A TON much appreciate you sharing. 

[abbylind]

Hard to believe the dealerships used to install AC as an option on Datsuns. Factory air was rare unless you ordered the vehicle

[Elkie]

I could be wrong but I thought 77 was the first year for factory air, before that was dealer installed knee knockers.

 

Tested the a/c today was 85 outside and a/c was putting out 60 degrees, not as cold as I hoped, but certainly better then nothing. Made the 95 degree days tolerable.

 

Thinking with some nice tint it'll help out a lot since the a/c only recycles cabin air, and getting in sometimes it's really hot.

[abbylind]

Rolled both windows down today and got 2-40 air conditioning.....2 windows... 40 MPH....Ha! Wish I had AC :rofl:

[]2eDeYe]

Thanks for the kind words, hopefully someone will find it helpful if they are wanting to add an a/c. While I'm thinking about it, the a/c bracket from a KA24DE mounts right up the the L20B block, the problem is the idler pulley isn't vbelt, but you could swap it out. Whether there's room for a compressor with the steering block I never checked.

 

 

I've found it helpful, so thanks :) 

[Elkie]

Bit of bad news, steadily decreasing performance let me know there was a leak somewhere. Injected some dye. Turns out there's a pinhole leak on the discharge line. Gonna cut it out and junction the two ends and recharge. Then we'll see about them numbers.

[Elkie]

Got the line fixed ran great for two days then the evap leaked, pulled it out, at some point someone jb welded it, sent it out to a radiator shop to see if its fixable. Also does anyone know how this doodad had the vacuum lines run?

[red13]

#10 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun620/Datsun620Index/Electrical/FuelPumpFICD/tabid/2450/Default.aspx

[Elkie]

I was thinking this just pulled a set vacuum when activated. But it looks like it attaches to an actuator that increases idle. Might be SOL on getting this to work with weber.

[Elkie]

Got a/c working good now, had some problems with the heat and fuel boiling in the carb, ordered a spacer for the carb. Hope this helps. Also test fitted stock rim with new brakes, everything looks good. Just need to pick up a few more suspension pieces to swap over to ball joint.

[Elkie]

Went to Springfield, MO to get some parts down there, and ran into this fella in the parking lot.

Installed the 14mm spacer for the carb, and found out the PO had mounted the adapter backwards, so I had to fix that as well. Hopefully this fixes the carb boiling.

[Elkie]

Got most of my swap done today, need to finish installing steering components. Also anyone fit a 8" wide rim wit +13 offset after doing the balljoint swap?

New bushings

Rethreaded upper control arm bolts

Cleaned off the tension rod mounts to move inwards.

[Elkie]

Coming along, now to work out sway bar issue with 720 tie rod assemblies. Gonna have to get creative.

[heretic]

Just out of curiosity, why did you use 720 tie rods? Why not 620 ball joint ones?

[distributorguy]

Looks like your lower ball joint bolts are a little short for the nylock nuts?  Might want to pull the rotors back off and press the studs too, or if you use a lug nut to pull them into place you'll have to chase the threads because they'll deform and you'll fight it every time you remove the wheels.  

 

The 620 outer tie rods are one piece with a center adjuster and fit great.  I think you can still get them at rockauto.  Current discount code: 3319578329389150

[Elkie]

I wanted individual adjustability for the left and right wheel. The 620 assemblies don't allow that. I saw a build where a guy used these, but he used a 620 spindle which must mount the outer tie rod lower. Plus the 620 left tie rod assembly is only made by rare parts now, and they want $80 for one.

Already did the lug nut method, always done that and never had a problem with threads. The bolt aren't threaded because I haven't put the tension rods on in the picture.