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Elkie's 77 King Cab


Elkie

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Found some pics of doing the floor. It was missing the front carpet, and the back carpet was in bad shape.

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Stripped

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Worst rust, can see the hole where seam sealer had come away, and let water leak in.

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wire brushed the rust off, and threw on some rust bullet. Redid the sea sealer after the pic.

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Some caked on nasty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started working on getting the a/c system re-installed. Got the condensor installed, and modded the old drier so that I can use more modern drier with o rings.

From this (Forgot to take a before pic just found this one.)

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to this

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  • 3 weeks later...

Really nice work, clean welds. Simple and clean. Wasn't there a smog pump there on a king cab? B)

Wish I could ditch my Smog pump and mount a compressor on the driver side. But living in California it is a real hassle having to smog it every year cuz it is so old. Too bad you don't live closer to me. I'd comission you to do one on the other side! lol

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Took like 4 tries to get that idler pulley set just right.  No worries about emission here, that stuff was all pulled off when I got it.One last pic with final welds done, painted, and compressor mounted.

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A couple questions if I may?

 

What is the clearance between the top of the steering box and the bottom flat plate the compressor bolts to?

 

What is the clearance between inside of compressor and the closest thing to it? Exhaust bracket?

 

Can the back strut support (the back twin of the piece the idler cam bots to) be welded in directly under the rear compressor ears, to reduce the amount of unused plate behind the compressor

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Yeah redeye it is pretty rust free, surprising for a kansas vehicle. Wish it didn't have so much body damage, but I'll get it fixed in time. Most of my effort is focused on the 521 atm. Summers are brutal here so getting a/c in the dd is a priority.

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Seeker do you have an old drier I could build one from, I used the arms from it to make the back of the bracket. Did some electrical today. Since the old pressure sensor wouldn't work with the new drier, I found a replacement sensor for it. The original sensor was a high pressure switch that would shut off the compressor when it hit 398 psi and come back on a 341 psi. I used a binary switch that on the high side shuts of at 384 and back on at 340, it also shuts off the compressor off at anything below 28 psi. part number is 35829 looks like this...

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wiring harness part number 37219 and the original sensor.

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all together, will run a line from the green wire to the compressor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The tiny cable is roughly 4 1/16 to 4 1/4" long. Don't have an evaporator in the parts truck, and haven't yet installed the one I sourced from a yard into my 620 yet. Do they really fit that close together it only takes a 4" cable to connect?   I have a shout out to my favorite Nissan Parts girl to see if she can shed further light on this.

 

She broke my heart yesterday and said she is leaving today for a new job at a different Mfg dealership in another city, no longer with access to the Nissan parts systems. All the other guys where she works are noobs and don't have any interest in learning the old system that handles 620 stuff.

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That sucks, I generally have to have the part number when I go through nissan here. There's a cable that runs from the bracket on the center console(last pic from my last post) up to a thermo switch on top of the evaporator (second pic).

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Yeah I'm using the old evap and condensor, a po had removed all the a/c stuff. You could get away doing this w/o most the stock stuff, but the evap is the one thing I'd recommend getting. Nostalgic air sells under dash evap units but they run $250-$400

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