Trying to figure out this weber carb for my 510

[Flatline]

So i picked up my car in a million pieces. didn't get a carb at all. so i dont have much of a clue on what to do with it lol.

 

Anyway, i picked up a Weber 32/36 off an L18 for my L16. I got the adapter plate with it. It'll use some cleaning, but i dont know what i need to get it going.

 

 

Here is the throttle linkage as far as i can tell. And im pretty sure i know where the fuel in/out is.

 

Fuel.

 

 

What i dont know is what the blocked off lines on the manifold are for, or the T that comes off it with the hose sticking up.

Im also not sure what to do about the throttle. I dont think i have the stock linkage, so go cable? Idk what i need for either.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

[67_1600]

The perpendicular fitting in the first pic with the t fitting is for vacuum. The larger blocked hose in the first pic is part of the emissions system. In the second pic, the large blocked off hose is a water fitting and the broken hose is your fuel inlet.

 

As far as linkage is concerned, you may want to find someone with the correct kit. You may also be able to buy the linkage but I'm not positive. I've got a Weber sitting around not being used - I'll see if I have any linkage on it. I don't think I do, but I'm not positive.

[Flatline]

awesome thanks. that helps a lot. seeing as this came off 510 with an L20, how different would the linkage be? In my searches, i read that a throttle cable would be better but would have to be fabbed up which i dont thing would be a problem.

[datzenmike]

 

The gear clamp with the black plug on the left is the PCV valve and this should always be connected to your block vent pipe. You'll see it sticking out horizontally between your exhaust pipes. The engine will need less frequent oil changes with this system connected.

 

 

The plugged red hose should always be connected to your return water by pass line from your thermostat housing. This water flow from the head through the intake and back to the water pump warms the intake air on cold days and 'cools' the intake on hot days from radiated heat from the nearby exhaust manifold. The car will run better when the extremes of hot and cold intake air are moderated

.

[67_1600]

awesome thanks. that helps a lot. seeing as this came off 510 with an L20, how different would the linkage be? In my searches, i read that a throttle cable would be better but would have to be fabbed up which i dont thing would be a problem.

 

The linkage is significantly different. I'm surprised that the one pictured came off of a 510 at all unless it was maybe a later one (A10)? Your linkage from the firewall should be a rod with kind of a hook at the end that turns where that linkage looks to be set up for a cable. That whole plate would be removed for a typical 510 installation.

 

Here is an image that shows the linkage connection to the carb (thanks to mklotz):

 

[Flatline]

Thanks for the clarification Mike, ill be sure to keep those hooked up when it goes together.

 

Otherwise, i dont think i have any of the throttle linkage stuff in the car.... might be in the box o crap that came with it. If not i might look into a universal cable kit i can make work.

[pl521sss]

Locate those linkages and install them on the firewall.

Then remove this throttle piece from an old Hitachi carb and swap to your weber as shown below.

That should make it bolt on deal and not use the cable linkage.

 

If you don't have any of those. Send me PM and might have those as spares.

 

 

[Doctor510]

Mike rules on this one, I can have my nap now...

 

I have the 510 parts if needed.

[Oregon_PLG222]

I've got the same questions. I put the weber carb on the 510 yesterday and hooked it up to the choke cable no problem. But, obviously the throttle cable is a different beast. I pulled the cable linkage off the weber and placed the original 510 clip on. But, I have a 2 inch +/- riser/adapter between manifold and weber. This prevents the 510 rod from lining up horizontally.

 

I put the cable linkage back on the weber along with the cable clamp bracket as shown in photo. But, if I go with a cable (which would connect to the weber linkage fine) how do I get it to connect to the 510 pedal linkage? Another post I saw said something about turning the 510 ball/socket linkage upside down or something to make it work. Looking at what I've got, that doesn't make any sense to me (maybe because mine sits 2 inches higher).

 

I also saw another post that showed a pre-made cable (really slick looking) that some were saying would work. I can't find that post again since I don't remember the name of the cable mfr.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

[Oregon_PLG222]

Here's the cable I saw. It's a lokar.

 

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15886

[Doctor510]

If you get the proper adapter, the stock 510 linkage will work.  The tall adapter won't allow you to close the hood all the way.  Been there, done that and have the "T" shirt too many times.   Without experience, if you try to re-invent the wheel, you'll get a square one!

 

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99004.300.html

[Oregon_PLG222]

Thanks Doctor510. That's why I'm asking questions. This is my first 510 project and I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The tall adapter clears the hood on L16 and L18's. It's when you get into the tall block of the L20's etc that you run into problems. We used to lift the hood at the rear to make clearance and offer some extra engine bay heat to escape. Basically we would put a 4x4 on the valve cover and close the hood. If done right, it works well without bending the hood.

 

Also, for the linkage piece at the firewall, use some 3/4" spacers between the bracket and firewall so the linkage rod doesn't slip out. This has happened many times to me. Once on the race car which caused me to DNF.

[Oregon_PLG222]

The previous owner told me it was an L18 block w/ L16 head. I haven't looked at the numbers on them but it seems to have clearance. I haven't shut the hood completely yet though. I'll have to check it out. I'll likely order the adapter at the link above.

 

stoffregen, I'm not sure what you mean by 3/4" spacers.

 

"...Also, for the linkage piece at the firewall, use some 3/4" spacers between the bracket and firewall so the linkage rod doesn't slip out...."

 

I understand putting something on the end of the rod so it doesn't slip out (toward the carb) of the firewall bracket. Good suggestion.

 

BTW In Datsunmike's post above, looking at the picture showing the manifold ports, there is a small tube at the base of the carb that I'm assuming is for a vacuum line. My vehicle has no spare vacuum line laying around. Should I plug that or find some vacuum connection to hook to it?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You can either make the shaft longer or space the linkage bracket out from the firewall. I find it's easier to space the bracket out. Round spacers, stacks of washers or one solid block with two holes in it will space the linkage bracket from the firewall. You will need longer bolts then to bolt the bracket on.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Oh, and the brass nipple at the base of the carb does not need to be plugged.

[Oregon_PLG222]

Gotcha. You're saying, locate the stock bracket on the firewall further from the firewall. Good idea.