datsunfreak Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Is the block the same as in a 240sx with just a different head and timing cover, because I found a deal ona really nice short block. No sir. It's too different to mix and match. Sorry. :blush: 1 Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 That SUX :sick: I guess I could still buy it for the parts and then build a Frontier block. This block has Eagle forged rods, Clevite bearings, and Wiseco pistons in it. Never ran, guy built the short block and is now going LS1. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 This block has Eagle forged rods, Clevite bearings, and Wiseco pistons in it. I would bet you can shove all that in a Frontier block. :devil: 1 Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I tried bleeding the brakes last week, sorry for the slow update. I have the weirdest problem though... When I pump the brake pedal, the fluid goes down (in the master cyl. reservoir) as long as I keep pumping the brakes, but as soon as I stop pumping, the fluid all goes back in the reservoir. I know the lines are dry and full of air, so it should be eating up the fluid. I'm thinking there may be dirt in the master cyl. (came from race car) that's preventing the fluid from flowing or the master cyl. is bad. It also makes a weird hiss noise when I pump it sometimes (sounds kinda like air bleeding out somewhere). I might just try swapping the master cyl. this weekend and be done with it. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Ignition woes....I have a 1969 goon ignition, but the 72 ignition mounts different. I also have a 240z ignition with the column mount,still on a column, don't know any way to remove the two stud looking bolts without damaging the mount. Any help would be great. I'm hoping that I don't have to swap out my entire dash to the 69 dash, just for a stupid ignition switch. Honestly i'd prefer the 69 dash, but it's a ton of work for a simple problem. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Ignition woes.... I have a 1969 goon ignition, but the 72 ignition mounts different. I also have a 240z ignition with the column mount,still on a column, don't know any way to remove the two stud looking bolts without damaging the mount. Any help would be great. Get a dremel, cut a slot in the head of the bolt, turn it out with a screwdriver. This is how I remove all of mine. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 That SUX :sick: I guess I could still buy it for the parts and then build a Frontier block. This block has Eagle forged rods, Clevite bearings, and Wiseco pistons in it. Never ran, guy built the short block and is now going LS1. Yes Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Get a dremel, cut a slot in the head of the bolt, turn it out with a screwdriver. This is how I remove all of mine. Thanks, great idea. I can't believe I didn't think of that. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 just wanna clear up some truck vs car KA stuff. the internals from either engine will no swap. on exception of the pistons. they might not work either. the wrist pins might be a couple thousandths different too. the main and rod journals are much bigger in truck KA than the car KA. thus cranks, and rods will not swap. if you were going to carb a KA, a car KA is not impossible. the custom distributor is the only real hard part. i have a carbed frontier engine in the 620 right now. lemme know if you have anymore questions. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 BOLT PROBLEMS!!! I'm highly frustrated... :angry: I'm trying to buy bolts to mount the transmission crossmember to the transmission tunnel. There are four of them. Best as I can tell they are 10mm bolts. Problem is the bolt holes are rusted and nothing wants to thread properly, I have several of these cars and i'm missing these bolts in all of the cars, plus they all have the same rusty thread problem. I've tried M10 x 1.5 pitch and M10 x 1.25 pitch and neither seem correct. Are they M10 x 1.0 pitch thread? Metric bolts are expensive, plus the 50 mile round trip drive to go to my garage and back every time they don't fit. I'm probably going to have to chase the threads with a tap, but I want to use the correct tap and bolts... Who has the correct answer for me? I also need the correct size and pitch for the from bumper to frame bolts. Thanks, I'm hoping Datsunmike chimes in here... :excl: Quote Link to comment
The Taterhead Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 I don't have a clue what size they are but worst case scenario is you could grind the mounting nuts off and weld some new ones in place. Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Have you tried sae? I know there's some where they have sae fasteners, I don't remember which vehicles and models but I know they're there Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Haven't tried that yet, but I'd be shocked if it was sae. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Haven't tried that yet, but I'd be shocked if it was sae. I believe on a later 510 only the seat belt bolts are SAE. I have drilled the threads out and used a bolt and nut before... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Yeah, I've drilled em out on my race car before, I just wanna do it right on this car. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Mystery solved... M10 x1.25 if anyone is interested. Anyways, now that the bolt problem is solved, I went over to the Datto Garage today and got after it... Here's the engine compartment, as of this morning when I started...Something was missing... :confused:So, I got into my parts hoard and bolted together a 4spd. trans and an L16 that I had laying around. (the motor came from a fellow Ratsun member in Kansas City a few years ago, I believe it was the original from his 521 truck) I had to put a 510 oil pan on it for the swap. :PYeah, it's FUGLY, DIRTY, GREASY, AND OILY, :sick: but I was told it was a decent runner and as I stated earlier in the build. This can't look like it's been "restored" or i'll end up with a "rebuilt" title. Soooo.... In it goes.As it sits now... It's in it's new home. :w00t:That's it for today, at least i'm one step closer to getting it running. :ninja: 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 This can't look like it's been "restored" or i'll end up with a "rebuilt" title... For reals? :confused: Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Yeah, it also has to be worth less than $2500 dollars at the time of inspection (or they won't give me a title), and NADA starts at $2000 for a 72 goon in poor shape, so I obviously can't make it look nice for inspection time. Stupidist crap I've ever heard of. Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 wow, i'm glad i don't live where you do worst i've had to do for inspections is smog and i don't even have to do that no more Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Stupidist crap I've ever heard of. x2 :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 I just looked at the JCCS registration page, i'm pretty disappointed. They are now requiring photos of the cars for registration. It says they will use the photos to screen the entries. My car isn't done right now, although I was planning to have the paint finished before the show. It even says that you can't be missing interior parts or even carpet. There is no way this car will meet their criteria this year. :mad: I may shift gears and try to take a race car that i'm working on. Surely they can't complain about missing carpet in a race car. :hmm: Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I just looked at the JCCS registration page, i'm pretty disappointed. They are now requiring photos of the cars for registration. It says they will use the photos to screen the entries. My car isn't done right now, although I was planning to have the paint finished before the show. Given any thought to explaining this to them and seeing if they'll let you register anyway? It'll fill up fast though... Surely they can't complain about missing carpet in a race car. They never have before. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 You could always rent a vendor booth? :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I've called and emailed them about this, no reply so far. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 bump...was thinking about this goon the other night 1 Quote Link to comment
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