620 4x4 Reproduction Parts

[]2eDeYe]

T-case is out and the trans will be pulled tonight.

 

I'll get pics of all the pieces and how they fit together on Friday night when I get it all put back together. :)

[]2eDeYe]

Here's a shot of pictures of all the components. I have the spacer in the wrong place (middle of the pic), it goes on the shaft before the rear bearing, not after. 

 

Had to fix the threads on my other shaft that didn't have screwed up splines. 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the damaged splines on the other shaft. They allowed the bull gear to chatter. If it does the same thing on the new shaft, I will figure out a way to weld it on there :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

The rear bearing is in a housing pressed in and retained with a groove ring. I am not sure what the housing is from, maybe a T-90? I didn't see any casting #s on it. 

 

 

 

That is my problem bearing. 

 

Here is the metal juice it was making . 

 

 

Sounds great  :confused:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiVrVGd9jMo&feature=youtu.be

 

Sorry for the vertical vid, my camera was in the vice.  :ninja:

 

 

 

Here's some shots of the empty housing. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Press in the front bearing.

 

 

 

 

...and that's right when I figured out the new rear bearing was no good. For some reason I stopped taking pictures and didn't get one of the assembled adapter. Probably because it added another day to re assembly. :(
 

 

Hopefully that's plenty though cause it's all back in the truck.  B)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Thanks.

 

Man that adapter is simple. I could make one out of steel in a day or two.

 

I'm still trying to figure out the shaft, but so far I'm thinking that a shorter adapter and a sealed coupler with female splines at both ends would be far simpler and it would eliminate any welding on the input shaft.

 

But then I just thought of something else, don't stock D20's have a female input?

[]2eDeYe]

No problem. 

 

Ya it's super simple, I will model it up when I get some time. It be made from aluminum pretty easily as well. 

 

You could fit any manner of coupler in the adapter, lots of room. The big splines on the shaft aren't even used. The single shaft allows it to be supported by both bearings though so that is something to take into consideration.  

 

 

The Dana 20 uses a bull gear to drive the main rear high range. Here is a pic with the bull gear on the shaft. 

 

[]2eDeYe]

Seems like this is appropriate to post now :lol: 

 

Link to the breakdown. 

http://midwestjeepwillys.com/transfer-case-dana-20d.html

 

 

 

 

 

It's funny, I've been looking for a quality exploded view of the Dana 20 for years and just found this one today :lol: 

 

I saved it to my hard drive along with a copy of the webpage, the pictures of individual parts is a nice reference. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

We could make a shaft with the female tailshaft splines on it that slipped over the stock D20 input shaft. Another way would be to make a new input shaft that has a coupler built into it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Actually now that I think about it, a D300 would be easier to adapt and easier to source parts for.

 

I'll look into that.

[]2eDeYe]

Toyota doublers are still an option :)

[mr68gts]

If your truely looking to replicate what was originally done, I have an un-butchered 76 conversion done by Diversified back when my uncle bought it new from the dealership my father worked at. It is under restoration in my garage at the moment so it's in pieces and easier to see what was done. The only thing that has been changed from it's 1976 configuration is the amount of leafs up front and we flipped the axle from the top to the bottom of the leafs. The rear got an overload leaf and that is it. More than welcome to document it. I am actually debating on linking the front end and going hydro steering but haven't decided yet as it wil be more than the truck is worth and most likely will not be keeping it once completed.

Paul

[mr68gts]

Here's the way they did our transfer case. Divorced witha short 10" (?) jack shaft inbetween.

Paul

[]2eDeYe]

Looking forward to more pics. Do you have any of the truck all together? 

 

I am actually debating on linking the front end and going hydro steering but haven't decided yet as it wil be more than the truck is worth and most likely will not be keeping it once completed.

Paul

 

 

If your tearing it down completely and rebuilding/refreshing everything anyway a properly linked axle in the front with hydro assist will do nothing but add value. :) 

 

Is there a build thread for your truck that I haven't been keeping up on? 

[nl320what]

I had a 74 Datsun 620 with a factory dealer 4x4 option.

 

I will find some pictures I took of it underneath and a walk-around too.

 

They just slapped in a full Jeep CJ 5-Lug suspension.

 

Mine has these factory options also :

- Twin Stick Dana 20 Divorced Transfer Case

- Bubble Back Window

 

I converted it to a Weber DGV and matchbox dizzy.

 

Will do my best to find the photos.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

So they put a whole Jeep chassis under it or just the front axle and leafs?

[orangie]

Isn't it easier just to drop a 620 body on a 720 Chassis?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Probably, but they didn't have 720's when they originally were building the 620 4x4's.

 

I do lots of engine swaps and body swaps here at my shop, but sometimes an original package is more appropriate and more desirable.

[]2eDeYe]

Isn't it easier just to drop a 620 body on a 720 Chassis?

 

 

Not if you plan to do a solid axle swap anyways. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Right. That's kind of the point anyway...

[nl320what]

So they put a whole Jeep chassis under it or just the front axle and leafs?

It was a datsun 620 frame, but with Jeep springs and all the suspension goodies welded as if you did a home brew swap to a 2wd truck.

 

The 720 4x4 swap required a few mods but is doable, had a writeup on exactly how its done at my Yahoo Group: SACPARTS.

 

The factory plexiglass bubble back window was a nice touch, gave you a about 3" more head room.