Datsun A14 - won't fire

[D.D.Anderson]

--- NEW PROBLEM ---

 

( Battery cable burns up every times now, can't find the fault)

 

Well after alot of attempts and the problem dissappeard, i tok it for a drive downtown.

Right after i began driving the long way back the car suddenly died and rolled the last

meters into the parking lot.

 

We tried everything and 2 days was used, in the end we just had to give up and leave the car until we get a trailer.

We changed the coil, checked all connections for corrotion or damages etc... got new points since the leaf spring broke (strange enough it started everytime without it before)... Plugs and plugwires are ok, we get power everywhere, trying to start it multiple times but NO WAY IN HELL it will fire... it gets enough air and fuel.

I get no spark on the plugs, but plenty of sparks inside the distributor.

 

Im out of options, anyone got a suggestion or two? very appereciated!

 

David.A

[banzai510(hainz)]

I get no spark on the plugs, but plenty of sparks inside the distributor.

 

 

 

you get spark from the coil wire???????? dont worry about the plugs.

See if you get spark from the center coil wire to the chassis of the car. see if sparks. If not then its ther points or condensor or points wire grounding out. Or no power to the coil.

 

if you get spark

I will assume the dist is timmed close enough as it was running. then ck the distrutor cap and the rotor.

 

 

Use a point type coil. and since its points you will use a ballast resisitor also.

[ggzilla]

Sparks inside the distributor?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I assume he see tiney spark when the points are working.

So must mean there is power to the system.

[Dolomite]

New cap and rotor wouldn't hurt. My l20 did something like this once, turned out the little spring loaded electrode in the center of the cap came out...still have no idea how or where it went. I checked everything but that, I popped in the one out of my mk3 golf and it fired right up. Sometimes its something silly and simple, try those first, they're usually the cheapest options.

[ggzilla]

Replacing good parts with new hurts your wallet. Better to find the problem and replace what is needed.

 

Sparking from the points does not mean there is a good spark. As Hainz suggested, pull the coil lead out of the cap and see if it sparks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

soon as this happen ck for spark at the coil wire to ground.NO spark find out why

 

and then feel the coil if HOT. If HOT then its bad. either wrong coil installed or no ballast resisitor making the points go bad(to much current for points to handle causes point to arch out). Or wiggle inside the distributor for maybe sometimng shorting out causing no spark.

 

also fell the ignition fuse if HOT. maybe needs to be cleaned. also wiggle the connector to the ignition in back of key switch maybe dirty and cause intermittant power to the coil

[datzenmike]

Replacing good parts with new hurts your wallet. Better to find the problem and replace what is needed.

You may even put a bad new part in.

[D.D.Anderson]

i have changed fuses, relays, repaired a few wires, no luck....

 

when talking to my mates here they begin to think its the ignition switch/key, could one of the 5 plug-in's

at the back of the ignition be bad? Well the temperature on coil and such is normal...

[banzai510(hainz)]

when this happens ohm out the wire that goes to the switch. from fuse box to switch and them after the switch with key on

[ggzilla]

Yes, it could be the Ignition Switch (the non-key part). Or it could be a number of other things. Replace them all, or test to find out which part is bad.

 

Run a jumper wire from battery POS to coil +. Does it start now? If so it is wiring problem.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Like i said earlier just wiggle the connector in back of key switch. Cold be just corrossion

[D.D.Anderson]

Pos to coil won't work. Checked ignition and other places for corrossion, non at all.

I will try the Ohm meter, i will give a local old Datsun mecanic a call tomorrow, if you'we got a problem you cannot solve yourself, visit Espedalen.

[D.D.Anderson]

Vel i have fixed the points and fully charged battery, i also repaired this Batterycabel because it burnt up.

I was about to start, it was very weak and suddenly i lost power in the dash again, i checked under the hood and discover

that my cabel burnt up again!! Why does this happend now and why not before?

 

I also wonder why the Cableshoes intakes are diffrent as marked with Red....?

 

[ggzilla]

That's the Fusible Links which protects the wiring harness. It is a type of slow blow fuse.

 

Wrapping it with tape is a no-no. It is supposed to be special fire-proof insulation.

 

There may be a short, or the Links may be the wrong ones. I don't know which ones you need, but here is what is used in North America:

 

24022-W7500 FUSIBLE-LINK WIRE -1179 CAN, FED(EXC KFU)

* one green wire

 

24022-W5900 FUSIBLE-LINK WIRE -1179 CAL, FED(KFU)

* two green wires

 

24022-W5000 FUSIBLE-LINK WIRE 1279-

* one red, one green

[D.D.Anderson]

The guy fixing the links at the garage got this tape on, i didn't like it but we tried.

I got updates: after it stopped the starter run well and nice.

Suddenly the starter runs quiet heavy and unusuall... make sounds that i don't recognize.

When thinking about it, i lost the power after that, and discovered that the fusible link melted.

 

Been visiting our local guru and my brother trying to diagnose it now, we are suspecious on the starter.

Could it get bad or something and draw to much amp? and makes the Link melt?

[ggzilla]

Possible, but unlikely to draw 40 amps.

 

Test the starter with an ammeter.