Weak Spark no start (coil -->dizzy)

[SpiderRat]

ggzilla: No spark when attached to plug #1 at all

 

 

 

Banzai5:I was thinking the same so I moved the lower crank to TDC (2nd etch) and put the roto on and it showed the direction at 2:00. 

The guy helping me who brought the coil over said it would work for test purposes of getting the car to spark. Even without a ballast it should spark if I hooked it up correctly?

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes it should still spark but coil might get hot w/o ballast. anytime coil hot then a wrong type is used most likely or needs a ballast.

 

 

as for the no spark photo(above) always ck using the center coil wire from coil FIRST!!!! to tell you if your distributor is giving the go no signal to tell the coil to fire.Thats where you start from trouble shooting.

Using the sparkplug only tells 25% of a proplem IF a proplem . IF you put the dist in wrong that plug will never fire if out of time even if it works.

 

[datzenmike]

Use the wire from the coil!!!!!!!!!!!

 

What if your rotor isn't pointed at a terminal on the cap??????

 

You'll be thinking there is no spark when there is.

 

 

 

Get the coil working first, then get the spark to the plugs.

[SpiderRat]

Yeah I tried that too. NO Spark

 

SO...I figured

1. 12v is available to (+) cable through jump wire from battery. Voltage drops to 8v when cranking (ok?)

2.Used two different set ups independtly and mix and match (point dizzy--genreic coil <----& ---> El dizzy --aftermarket coil) - weak/ no snapping spark

 

could it be the EZ harness is line is connected wrong somewhere?

 

OR both coils are bad???

 

looking up coil testing procedures...

[SpiderRat]

SUCCESS!!!!

 

I yelled out ITs ALIVE!!! 

 

smoking and backfiring but it RUNS! (Will start another thread soon)

 

I want to first thank DatzenMike,Hainz,&GGzilla - for providing knowledge and insight to what steps I needed to take and address to find what was wrong and fix it. I was about to call a mechanic but I kept trucking and got it to FIRE!

 

Solution: Below

 

"Electronic Ignition Troubleshooting Procedure (continued) • Step 2 • Connect the voltmeter or test light to the negative side of the coil and crank the engine. • The voltmeter should fluctuate or the test light should blink, indicating that the primary coil current is being turned on and off. • If there is no pulsing of the negative side of the coil, then the problem is a defective pickup, electronic control module, or wiring." -http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/IgnitionSystemDiagnosis&Service.pdf

 

The test light on the neg side coil did not light at all! I discovered that I grounded the tach (purple wire) from (-) and also ran another ground to the engine bay the coil didnt like that at all. **GROUND ISSUE**.....DUH Removed the ground so the only connection coming from the neg (-) side of the coil terminal is coming from the distributor. Retest and "Blink Blink Blink"

 

 

Crank Crank BAM BAM BOOOMMMM !!!!

 

**I cheated a little and went back to the old 12v generic pictured above and put on the single points dizzy, cause I dunno why but I felt it was a simpler way to diagnose the problem. Now to make it work on the EL DIZZY!!!

[ggzilla]

Glad to hear.

 

Retime the spark, and it should run better.

 

1. Put the crank pointer at the desired timing mark

2. Rotate distributor to line up the teeth

3. Double check that rotor points to either #1 or #4

That's it!

[banzai510(hainz)]

great you got it running.

I trouble shot a 521 once for somebody and they coulnt get it to run.

Found out they had a kill switch installed. Coil would never fire to matter what dizzy or coil installed. Then ask whats this added wire going from - side coil. Oh a kill switch.

I said wht engage it if car don't start anyway.  Was a bad car proprol anyways. Lots of time waisted on a simple issue