Laecaon Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 do you have a wiring diagram for your car? the 68 is a bit different than the others. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 I will also test tomorrow if my headlights even get power still I ck this first as it tells me if my battery fusable link via the starter lug power at least up to thefuse box and back out to the lights. gives me a clue. No dash light can be just a broken wire under fuse box due to water getting under there and corrossion. will also have no brake light also on the later 510s. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 thats cool hainz considering the dash/parking lights are on a completely different circuit than the brake lights... brake lights are on the same fuse as the Horn. 4doorkid, what are you using for testing these circuits? A test light or a multimeter? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 thats cool hainz considering the dash/parking lights are on a completely different circuit than the brake lights... true but still shows power thru up to input side of fuse box. dash light: has been wire under the fusebox rotted or the fuse popped. Yes the horn dont work also(later 510s at least) this is more common on 521s are more moisture on fuse box. If headlamputs out and this gets fixed mostlely the other stuff will come back Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 I'm using a test light to check for power and multimeter for continuity, cause I had taken off my fuse box recently Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 68 510 Battery hooked up, Not grounding out anywhere. All my lights used to work. None of the fucking lights turn on now. I have no working headlights, tailights, or dashlights. I get a sudden flickr from the right arrow dash light when i pull the "flash" knob, but thats the only light I get WTF. I'm about to be over with this car Yeah I'm going to check with the tester light and check the fusible link. Thanks guys, this got me a little discouraged because it happened out of no where during this build ! ! Good thing this happened to me, usefull learning experience. That still leaves me to question why my dash lights don't turn on anymore(the direct from light switch) But I haven't tested them yet, My dash Is disconnected from my car. I will also test tomorrow if my headlights even get power still I'm using a test light to check for power and multimeter for continuity, cause I had taken off my fuse box recently Do ya think disconnecting these things and then connecting them up wrong might be the cause????????????? When something happens, always look at the last things you did. Why does it take two pages to get all the information? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 I find electrical problems very frustrating. Sometime overwhelming and need to take a break and come back to it later. The best strategy I have found is a step-by-step methodical elimination process. It takes time. Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 I disconnected them after they stopped working. My electrical was connected and out of nowhere my lights stopped working. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 It could be the headlights, the connectors, the wires, the fuse box, the fuses, the relay, the dimmer switch, the headlight switch. Or it could be the grounds. Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 thats cool hainz considering the dash/parking lights are on a completely different circuit than the brake lights... true but still shows power thru up to input side of fuse box. dash light: has been wire under the fusebox rotted or the fuse popped. Yes the horn dont work also(later 510s at least) this is more common on 521s are more moisture on fuse box. If headlamputs out and this gets fixed mostlely the other stuff will come back thats cool hainz considering the dash/parking lights are on a completely different circuit than the brake lights... brake lights are on the same fuse as the Horn. 4doorkid, what are you using for testing these circuits? A test light or a multimeter? Clark's third law states "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" I assure you the 510 technology is not 'magic' although you might think so sometimes. The most complicated electronics in it, is in the radio. The alternator and charging system is next and that's about it. The rest is wires, fuses and lamps. Get that test lamp and you'll be able to 'see' where the power is or isn't. A famous member here once said "Datsuns are easy!!!! If you can't get one to start and keep it going.... sell it and get a honduh". Okay CRITICAL PROBLEM finally found! -My battery is connected (dash connected too), good power to fuse box(left side-direct circuited). -WHEN I PULL THE switch to my lights, for my low beams, I used my test light and some unwanted things are getting powered -Good power to my low beam lights, but not turning on -Green/white wire to my horn relay gets power. -When I pull the light switch, my oil pressure light on dash flicks for a split second! ^^ So my Chasis/block/body/GROUND is getting powered=shorted -horn plug which is grounded to the body, gets power and sparks my test light pointer ^^ THIS MUST MEAN THERE IS A SHORT SOMEWHERE huhh ^^ Which leads me to conclude, a wire from the light switch is falsely getting powered. I will search for it now. :) Any sugg.? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 -Good power to my low beam lights, but not turning on The headlight relay can only be in HI or LOW beam position. It's default position when not energized is HI. Powere to the energizing relay is supplied from the parking light circuit. In order for the low beams to function you MUST have parking light that work. So in operation, the headlights are on HI beam when everything is shut off. When you pull the headlight switch out to the first position the parking lights come on and the relay trips to ON (which is low beams if the switch is set to low beams) None of the headlight light up because they haven't been turned on yet. When you pull the headlight switch out to the second position (remember the parking lights are still on) the relay is already on LOW. If for some reason there are no parking lights the relay defaults to it's rest position of HI beams and you cannot select LOW. 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 If for some reason there are no parking lights the relay defaults to it's rest position of HI beams and you cannot select LOW. NONE of my lights turn on, lol. Not even my parking lights. I have a short somewhere is what I'm thinking because my oil light goes off. Doesn't it only go off when the circuit is closed or broken, cause the plug is on the block? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Oil light should only go on with ignition on, and low oil pressure. The switch sense pressure and adds resistance to ground. So when there is no pressure, the resistance in the switch is low and the light comes on, when pressure builds, the resistance of the switch goes up, and now the light goes out. Do you have a wiring diagram specifically for the 68 510? You didnt answer that question... Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 yeah I do, well it says 1968 1600, it has all the same wires and colors/switches etc.. So the oil pressure light is a mistake right? because I don't even have my key in there, plus i have no oil. Oil light should only go on with ignition on, and low oil pressure. The switch sense pressure and adds resistance to ground. So when there is no pressure, the resistance in the switch is low and the light comes on, when pressure builds, the resistance of the switch goes up, and now the light goes out. Do you have a wiring diagram specifically for the 68 510? You didnt answer that question... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 A "short circuit" is an accidently misconnected wire An "open circuit" results in no power 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 A "short circuit" is an accidently misconnected wire Almost always a 'short path' connected to ground resulting in a blown fuse or burnt wires. The term 'short circuit' is almost always misused to describe an open circuit. An "open circuit" results in no power Yes. Absolutely Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 -Good power to my low beam lights, but not turning on lamps still good???????????? 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Yeah lamps still good. I know it has a short for sure. Or the ground is getting power.! It only happens when I pull my light switch on Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 My tester light is alligator clipped to ground on the block. When pull the light switch, I my tester light turns on by touching the chasis or any other ground and sparks at the same time Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 My tester light is alligator clipped to ground on the block. When pull the light switch, I my tester light turns on by touching the chasis or any other ground and sparks at the same time wouldnt the battery then go dead? this sounds really strange to me. Then pull the lamp fuse and see if this still happens. Hopefully it doesnt. Or first disconncest the lamps then ck the test light if it still lights up. But I still find this hard to believe as if the ground is the block and you then touch the chassis it lights up. Then there is a voltage difference between the block and the chassis. But really it should be tied together thus NOT making the test lamp light up. Like taking the test lamp and ground the alligator end on the +12volt side then taking the pointy end and putting it to the +12side also it should NOT light up maybe you put tha battery cables on wrong the starter or something im just not getting. disconnect the lamps and try the test again between the block and chaissis as you say. Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 But it only happens when I turn on the light switch Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Um.... Are the headlights themselves grounding out in the buckets? I mean, the headlights in these cars are ground switching, in most cars 1 in is ground and the other 2 are power, In 510s 1 pin is power, and the other two are ground. Maybe these bulbs of yours are grounding out the 1 power pin to the headlight buckets as some cars ground their lights through the bucket... I would try: disconnecting the headlights entirely, then try and see if the same thing happens. Also, remove the headlights from the car, and then plug them in isolated from chassis ground, and see what happens. Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Found the problem in wrongly connected wire of the marker light. Power to ground. That little blinker has common ground wire with all the headlights lol! Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 And I think my battery just died too Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Found the problem in wrongly connected wire of the marker light. Power to ground. That little blinker has common ground wire with all the headlights lol! You should slow down and take a breath next time you ask for help. It was stated more than once about checking the markers. People can get frustrated trying to help without all the info or when you gloss over things. Don't be alarmed when the markers don't blink, they're markers not blinkers. They can be made to blink as an added safety feature but that may be above your pay grade at the moment. Quote Link to comment
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