Dylan Berichon Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Greetings all! I've taken a break from attempting to replace the steering and suspension pieces on my '80 720 long bed. I've hit a snag trying to get the upper ball joint off the drivers side. The ball joint is removed from the upper control arm, but I can't break it free from the wheel hub. I've got the bolt off, and I'm using a proper ball joint removal fork tool, but no matter how hard I wrench on it, the ball joint won't budge. I've soaked it with P'blast, put a torch on the thing, beat on it with a big hammer, used a lot of colourful language, but nothing is working. If you have any ideas I'd love to hear them. Am I forgetting something or...? Thanks as always. 2 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Forks never have worked for me... and just tear boots and get grease everywhere, no thank you. Big hammer, wail on the knuckle itself and not the ball joint as hard as possible. I usually leave the ball joint connected to the control arms though. Leave the nut partially thread on. Push down on the knuckle, and hit right next to where the ball joint goes into the knuckle. If all else fails and it wont come off. Sawsall the ball joint itself off from the taper portion stuck in the knuckle. Turn the knuckle over on a vise or something, and wail on the stud, should come out in 1-2 blows. I couldn't get my centerlink off of my pitman arm on my 510, so I removed my steering box, and one blow knocked it off. 2 Quote Link to comment
Dylan Berichon Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Now I've discovered I also am unable to break the Tie-Rod free from the wheel hub. I don't understand why I'm having such an issue getting any of this stuff apart. I don't see any rust on anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 35 years of ageing and corrosion? It sure sounds like you are taking "normal" corrective actions, so lets hear from the restoration experts who have presumably faced up to this situation and lived through it! 1 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Sounds like you need an air-chisel with a forked end. Much safer than wailing with a hammer... 2 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Its normal. Its not rust or corrosion (though it may contribute). It is a taper fit. Use a 12 or 16 lb sledge * Remove the cotter pin and nut * Turn the wheel so you can swing the hammer straight towards the end of knuckle arm * Use a pickle fork * Don't be afraid. One good blow will separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle arm Never failed to take on off dozens of cars. Yes, it usually cuts the dust shield. So keep it lubed after that, or get a new dust cup. You can also borrow a ball joint/tie rod end remover from O'Reilly or Autozone. That won't hurt the seal. 2 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Again, knowing a few mechanics, they dont use pickle forks either. 4lb is all I have ever needed. Never a fork. Have replaced everything on the front of my wagon. Have also worked on dozens of trucks. Your problem is something is absorbing your blows. You need to stop it. Like take a floor jack and shove the knuckle up, then try and angle your blows a bit downwards while hitting the knuckle. Hit like this: 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 You could also get the fork in there and give the knuckle a good whack with the sledge. That's how I got mine out. You get a bit if tension preloaded and some shock to release it. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 I don't like pickle forks either. Like pictured, there should be tension against the joint to get it to pop. Since this is all off the car now-real tools will be needed to ease the job. http://www.amazon.com/Front-Service-Separator-Pitman-Puller/dp/B00SKNZPVI/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426991445&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=front+end+tool+lit ^ The tool pictured on the right is my go-to for most annoying steering components GL.. Get the picture to show up on your phone and go rent THAT tool or kit from a parts store. AutoZone or O'Reilly's rents them around my place. 2 Quote Link to comment
Dylan Berichon Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hi all! Thanks for the helpful suggestions! I've given up for the day after making about zero progress on the whole project. The good news is that I'm replacing EVERYTHING up front in regards to suspension and steering (with the exception of the upper control arms since I couldn't track any new ones down), so if I tear any old rubber it won't really matter too much at the end of the day. I'll keep you all posted if I make any progress. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hi all! Thanks for the helpful suggestions! I've given up for the day after making about zero progress on the whole project. The good news is that I'm replacing EVERYTHING up front in regards to suspension and steering (with the exception of the upper control arms since I couldn't track any new ones down), so if I tear any old rubber it won't really matter too much at the end of the day. I'll keep you all posted if I make any progress. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hammer the fuck out of the knuckle like mentioned above.. or use that tool I posted. I have one and it work GREAT!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Dylan Berichon Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html I went and picked this tool up from Harbor Freight and you were correct, it works very well! The first ball joint I popped with it wasn't still connected to the control arm. Big mistake! When it "popped" free, it went FLYING across the garage I'm using and narrowly missed hitting me in the face. It hit the ceiling before taking rest across the room. Lesson learned! I used this tool on every ball joint (control arm and tie rods) except for the lower control arm ball joint (because the tool isn't quite bit enough). I was able to get those free eventually with use of another tool. Now comes the fun task of putting everything back together and packing it with grease! 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I went and picked this tool up from Harbor Freight and you were correct, it works very well! The first ball joint I popped with it wasn't still connected to the control arm. Big mistake! When it "popped" free, it went FLYING across the garage I'm using and narrowly missed hitting me in the face. It hit the ceiling before taking rest across the room. Lesson learned! I used this tool on every ball joint (control arm and tie rods) except for the lower control arm ball joint (because the tool isn't quite bit enough). I was able to get those free eventually with use of another tool. Now comes the fun task of putting everything back together and packing it with grease! I'm glad it worked out for you. Beats a fucking pickle fork any day of the week. 3 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.