Dolomite Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I've been loosing coolant lately and today I noticed coolant leaking from between the trans and block. I'm guessing there's a freeze plug on the back of the block. My question is weather or not it can be replaced without pulling the engine and is it under the flywheel. I'm hoping to make the sacdat fun run this weekend but its fading fast. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 There is a plug in the back of the head. About 3" lower, there is another in the block. It is behind the flywheel. Remove trans, get after it. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Thank's man. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I have an L18 sitting in my kitchen on a stand. That's all I have to go on. Have fun. Put a mirror behind the cylinder head first. If it is not that-trans/clutch/flywheel aren't to terrible to pull. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Do you know what size they are? I'm kicking myself for not doing this when me and my pop did the rebuild and 5spd install. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 The one in the rear for the block says 40mm. Not sure about the head. Digital caliper is in my box at work. I am not. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Do you know what size they are? I'm kicking myself for not doing this when me and my pop did the rebuild and 5spd install. Coulda, woulda, shoulda! Yes hindsight is wonderful. I rebuilt my R 1600 29 years ago and since it was on the bench, I replaced every "freeze plug" no matter the then current condition. Not to mention that the complete set was still available OTC at the dealer's parts counter. Beats the heck out of trying to pull and replace a "freeze plug" under a manifold by the side of the road [day or night].Hope this all works out favorably for you! 1 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 7 freeze plugs on an L20..... 40mm in size.... One up front.......which would suck balls if it leaked..... ...and one in the back.....yes.....behind the flywheel.... Always use brass ones.....and you can make them pretty..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I wouldn't doubt if it's the one in the back of the head. Is the top of the trans wet? If you want to come up to my place, you could do it on the lift, make it a bit easier. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Not freeze plugs. They are core plugs for access to remove the casting sand after the block is poured and set. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Because leftover slag would cause the motor to freeze? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 You want the sand out for room for the coolant. Wad I miss? Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Yeah, core plugs, freeze plugs, expansion plugs...seems tomato tomāto to me. Most call them freeze plugs so that's what I put. Funny thing is I've seen a few cracked blocks from freezing with intact plugs. Thanks for the help flatcat and busta. Soffregen, thanks for the offer but I just got back from dropping it at my pop's house, I'm not sure it'd make it to cool. The head plug is intact so it looks like a tranny pull is in my future, 3 afternoon/evenings should be enough time...if all goes well. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I can do a clutch in a 510 in about an hour. With my high lift transmission jack and my 2 post lift, I have gotten spoiled. I will never work on a creeper again... 3 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Three days oh pis-haw ,, even on a dirt floor it won't take near that much work... if your still running stock 4speed or dogleg,, those things don't weigh hardly anything.. Once you get flywheel off,, carefully let the back of the engine down ( a little) and hell the plug your after will be in a great spot to work on it.. The one in the back of the head would have been much harder to change in my opinion. Think happy thoughts 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I can do a clutch in a 510 in about an hour. With my high lift transmission jack and my 2 post lift, I have gotten spoiled. I will never work on a creeper again... Damn, that would be nice. The zx 5spd is a little heavy but I put it in from a creeper so I can repeat. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 I did a clutch in my race car once in 25 minutes. No joke. It was just before the race and it needed to get done. And that was on my back. But... if you're in there, you may want to have a plug ready to replace the one in the back of the head too. I think they are a little smaller, but I don't know for sure. Mike? Where's Mike? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 It is smaller. I didn't bring my calipers home. I will tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 I got the trans and clutch out tonight but my shitty air impact was too weak to loosen the flywheel bolts. Any suggestions? Is an electric impact strong enough, I may be able to get my hands on one. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 loop baling wire around tranny bolt then around bolt that would be holding clutch a few times it will tighten up then use breaker bar with a socket. I would use EXTRA bolts in case you bend one of them. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 I got the trans and clutch out tonight but my shitty air impact was too weak to loosen the flywheel bolts. Any suggestions? Is an electric impact strong enough, I may be able to get my hands on one. Do you have access to a CO2 tank? They usually have regulators that will go to 250 or 300 psi. I keep one handy just for that purpose. For the wire trick, I uctually use a visegrip clamped to the ring gear and rest it up against the corner of the block. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Pops to the rescue...again. He fabbed up an appliance to steady the flywheel so I was able to bust the bolts loose. I got the old plug and about a handful of chunky sediment out of the block and got the new brass plug in. Tomorrow's gonna be a busy day trying to button it up for Saturday. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Be sure to clean the hole and for added insurance, you could put some 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive around the plug before install. Have you ever installed freeze plugs before? Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Pics dude.....where are the pics??? I wouldn't use weather strip adhesive.....it's not designed for engines.... I swear by this stuff..... If done correctly it will never leak...... If you can barrow a freeze plug installer that would be ideal also....... Quote Link to comment
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