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Can't get my adjustments right


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Step one is getting the mixture right, even at a higher idle than desired. Then you can back the idle-screw down to get it where you want it. I always start my weber tuning by getting it as Lean as possible and keep backing out the screw until it's running "okay", then I'll mess with the idle. If you bought your kit from Redline, they have great customer support over the phone to talk you through it. 

~Peter

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Ok... Almost there, I've got all the vacume leaks taken care of. I think I've got everything hooked up right and I'm getting close with the mixture and timing, it seams to run close to tip top, but now it's dieseling realy badly, way worse than befor but only when the engine is warmed up, any ideas to what's causing the dieseling? Is it just the mixture isn't right yet or is it something different

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You have a Weber now, it doesn't have the fuel cutoff like the stock carb has, so dieseling is going to be a part of life now, I just push the clutch in, put it in gear, turn the key off and let out the clutch while my other foot is on the brake, I have been doing it so long, that I don't even notice doing it anymore.

What I don't understand about this dieseling issue is why do folks put the truck in neutral to shut it off?

I always leave my truck in gear when I park it, always. 

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What I don't understand about this dieseling issue is why do folks put the truck in neutral to shut it off?

I always leave my truck in gear when I park it, always. 

Agreed, since people pretty much always push the clutch in while starting anyways. 

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Can you install a cutoff and if so is it an expensive part or what? This is the first carb work I've ever done I just got tired of the stock carb. Also should I install a fuel pressure regulator I've heard that the webers only need like 3 pounds of pressure and I have the stock fuel pump still and I think they push 6 to 7 pounds correct me if I'm wrong I'm not an expert by any means, haha

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You can correct the dieseling issue two ways. I recommend doing BOTH. That is what I did on mine.

1)Use 91 or higher octane fuel.

2)Get an idle fuel cutoff/ANTI-DIESELING solenoid.

 

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm

 

Redline sells them too, but they're too proud of it at $40!

 

43914.060-2.jpg

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You can correct the dieseling issue two ways. I recommend doing BOTH. That is what I did on mine.

1)Use 91 or higher octane fuel.

2)Get an idle fuel cutoff/ANTI-DIESELING solenoid.

 

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm

 

Redline sells them too, but they're too proud of it at $40!

 

43914.060-2.jpg

I did not know Weber carbs had this option, first time I heard of it, is this something new out, or do they all have the hole for the lack of a better word to put that part in?

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What you need to understand is the the fuel cutoff cuts the fuel off, it kinda works like the ones on a normal diesel engine with a VE type injection pump, when the key is turned off, the fuel is gone, if there is no fuel, it cannot run/diesel, it is in the carb that the fuel is cut off.

I just pulled out a brand new Weber I have, I could not find anyplace for a fuel cutoff solenoid, I suspect one would have to order a Weber with that option.

That is a good question I don't recall mine having a vacant port for somthing like this, dose it insert into the intake manifold? As I said befor I've never done any carb work befor this

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My older Weber had the cut off solenoid on it and it still dieseled like crazy. I now have a brand new Weber 22/36 with out the solenoid and it still diesels like a MOFO!! I did lower my idle and it helped....juts a little bit. I am quite used to dumping it in 4th and its at least a clean shut off.

when you do get your solenoid. let us know the results. please

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