SpiderRat Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hello, I recently purchased my Dime and was able to drive it home. However the car has suddenly refuse to shift in certain gears. (R,1,3,5) but able to shift into 2,4 with alot of play while in gear. It seems like it could be a syncro problem maybe?. I checked the hydraulic master/slave clutch for leaks and they looked good. Should I just dump the trans and buy a 280zx donor? The cost of a rebuild would be just as much i estimate ($400+) Insights greatly appreciated... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLROHzNQ7DA&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hi SpiderRat and welcome to Ratsun. Not going into gear could simply be the hydraulic clutch is leaking and out of fluid. It may need a top up and bleed the air out or a part replaced but it's not rocket science to do. Post some more about it... and make sure that hood is secure. Run it in neutral. Put clutch pedal down. Shift slowly into reverse. A constant grind means the clutch is not disengaging or not disengaging all the way. This can be two things... 1/ The flywheel and or the pressure plate are rusty and the clutch disc is stuck to either of them. Doesn't take much, just being stored wet or getting wet. 2/ The clutch hydraulics are not working and the pressure plate is not releasing. The fluid level may be fine but air may be trapped inside. Air is compressible and will not transfer movement from the pedal to the clutch arm. If the fluid level looks ok, look under the passenger side behind the starter at the clutch slave. Have someone depress the clutch pedal. The slave push rod should move just over one inch to the rear and push the clutch arm. If it isn't moving then assume air is trapped in the hydraulic system. (this is good news) Bleeding the clutch hydraulics.... Raise the car enough to get at the slave cylinder. It's important that the master NOT run dry of fluid while bleeding. Have an assistant depress the pedal and hold it down. Loosen the bleeder. Fluid may squirt out so be ready. Close the bleeder and have the assistant let the pedal up. Have your assistant depress the pedal and hold it down. Loosen the bleeder. Fluid and air bubbles may squirt out. Close the bleeder and have the assistant let the pedal up. Repeat until only clear hydraulic fluid squirts out. Be sure to check the master reservoir and not let it run dry. When only clear fluid comes out for 3 or 4 tries you can assume all the air is out and the bleeder screw is tight. Top up the reservoir and test clutch operation. Clutch disc stuck to flywheel? Well lets hope it's only a hydraulic problem for now.... Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 thanks I definatly want to try that but thats the thing. I cant upshift into gear when the car is on or off. Its like theres a lockout plate above 2/4 gear. I tried bleeding the clutch but it didnt seem to make any difference. Stumped for now.. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Can you downshift, e.g. go from,4th to 3rd to 2nd? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 In neutral what happens if you let the clutch out? Does the car move? In 2nd and 4th does it drive away in these gears? Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 GGzilla- I can only down shift from 2 -4th. These are the ONLY working gears that will engage like actually physically moving into a slot. Datzenmike- The car will stay in nuetral when the clutch is out and yes it will drive away in 2nd and 4th. The is no way to grind the other gears because I cannot even shift into those gears while the car is on/off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 My apologies for not thoroiughly reading your first post. Yeah that's not the hydraulics one bit. There are three 'gates' 1/2 then 3/4 and 5/R. Can you get over to the far right and into the 5/R gate? Doesn't look like you can. 2nd and 4th shows that those two shift rods can be moved forward into those gears but not past neutral and back fot 1st and 3rd. (the shift rods move the oposite direction to the shift lever. Let me know about the reverse / fifth gate. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 ok. I was thinking its not the hydraulic but actually hoping it was. R-5 cannot be moved into gear as well. The previous owner was stating that the transmission mount and lines might need to be addressed. The shift rod can only shift down (2nd and 4th) not up. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 i think i my dime needs new shifter bushings because it has these symptoms as well. MAybe they are related too? Symptom: You can move your shifter about 4-5 inches side to side while it is in gear; in neutral you can move it about a foot. At idle in neutral, there is rattle in the tunnel just below the shifter that is driving you crazy. source http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqshft.htm Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Bad shifter bushings do not prevent the transmission from shifting. It only makes the shifter very floppy. I've driven some that had the bushings completely missing. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 GGzilla- I can only down shift from 2 -4th. These are the ONLY working gears that will engage like actually physically moving into a slot.Going from 2nd to 4th is upshifting. Can you downshift from 4th to 2nd? Or do you mean it won't go into the other gears? That is different from upshifting. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yeah thats what i meant. I can downshift from 4th to 2nd. "Once in while" if i gear into 2nd, it would full engage. As if what ever 2nd gear I was in 99% of the time was like partially engaged. Example: I would shift into 2nd but the stick will wiggle back into neutral almost when in gear without popping out. It will not go into other gears. Not even to let me grind if i wanted to try it foolishly. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 My hunch is there is something wrong with the detents. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I would buy a good used 5-spd. They are not rare or expensive. Or maybe a cotter pin fell out of an internal shift rail. Maybe its an easy fix. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Ok. There is only so much you can do with the transmission in the vehicle. People have been here before convinced they have a 5 speed and they didn't. Does your transmission have a removable bolted on oil pan? With the boot removed and the shifter exposed does it look like this... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Need to know. If the top one it's an easy fix. If bottom it's a diagnostic clue. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Its the bottom one. The transmission could be a dog leg. (smooth bell housing) I have concluded the symptoms have nothing to do with the clutch. I believe I must remove the transmission for repair/replacement. If I was to replace the transmission from a pulled say 77 280z 5 speed. I would need to take the clutch set too?( disc,pressure plate,Throw out bearing,Collar,Fork) Or can I just order a 280z clutch set online? Im not sure also if the "dogleg" is a long tail transmission or i will need to modify the trans axle to fit the 280z? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Doglegs in USA are short tails. If you swap in a 280Z gearbox (long tail), the driveshaft will need to be shortened ($150). Transaxles are used primarily br FWD cars. All RWD Datsuns have separate transmissions and axles. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 R 2 4 1 3 5 This shift pattern is a dogleg with reverse above first. Post pictures and measure the length... only way to know for sure. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 transmission top view Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Dogleg... see that large 'bolt' sticking down on the bottom far left of the tail? R 2 4 N N N 1 3 5 Reverse/first are on the same shift rod. 3 and 5 are both on the shifter when you pull back. I'm going to say that the shift bushings... specially the one that's a cup on the bottom of the shift lever. We could discuss this endlessly so the next thing is to pop the E clip off the shift pin and lift the shifter out and have a look. Quote Link to comment
SpiderRat Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 ok no bushings just a pin . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 That might be enough to do it. Easy fix if it is and you don't have to drop the transmission. :lol: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Bushings are $8 set at Nissan dealer. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 32855-H1010 .... $3.50 two side bushings. 32861-N4200 .... $3.50 single cup bushing Both of the above are used on all 4 a 5 speed 71B transmissions too. 1 Quote Link to comment
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