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Idle hands: assorted projects


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#21 q-tip

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 04:39 PM

There be trannies in here, datzenmike surely isn't far away....

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...


#22 G-Duax

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 05:43 PM

This kind of thread pisses me off.....

I'm jealous ! 

Guys with the modern pony cars can buy tube subframes.

I can't :(

 

No wonder I hate mustangs.

(and why I take great pleasure picking on them late Friday nights)


"All of a sudden it started making noise, then started losing power. I limped the car home and tried to get it up the driveway, the engine just died."

 

Why do people do this?

A $100 tow bill is never as much as the extra damage you cause by trying to "limp the car home".

 

Don't be that person !


#23 Aibast

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 10:10 PM

wouldn't two smaller turbos spood better and move more air than one big one? And I didn't see bypass valve or a blowoff to vent the overpressure. I have always used bypass valves as they don't lead to overly rich mixtures when venting overpressure.

 

One thing that I liked about the Volvo 480 turbo I had was a turbo cooling. The coolant line going into the turbo had a temperature controlled electric waterpump that kept the cooland running when you shut down the engine. So the oil didn't cook in the bearings of the turbo and you didn't have a need to cool down the turbo before turning the engine off.

 

Still nice stang  - I don't get you guys over there obsessing about chevy vs ford. They both make same kind of cars.

 

PS. If you have a chance to change out polts that hold stuff together and get water on them use new hotcalvanized of stainless ones. I have repairing my friends Ford, as most of the bolts are rusted shut. Volvo had all the undercarrige bolts hotcalvanized or stainless. And aftes 15 years in this salty stuff all the bolts come loose easy.


----2000 BMW 320d

----1987 Volvo 740 "van"

----2001 Renault Master - SOLD

----1996 Land Rover Discovery Tdi - SOLD

----1973 Volvo 142 DL 2.0  - SOLD

---- 2001 Volvo V70AWD 2.5 T5 - SOLD

---- 2004 Honda Civic 1.4L 5dr hatchback - Ecodaily - SOLD

---- 1996 Volvo 850 R 2.0L T5 155kW 300Nm - Daily driven family car - SOLD
---- 1979 Datsun 1500 (620) Pickup - Oldtimers rally car project - SOLD
---- 1992 Volvo 850 GL - one winter beater - SOLD
---- 1996 Volvo 480 Turbo - heavily modified trackcar --- youtube videos - SOLD
---- 1987 Volvo 744 Turbo - Turbobrick - TOTALED BY BMW
---- 1973 Volvo 142 GL - SOLD
---- 1983 Mazda 626 GC - SOLD


#24 UnderControl

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Posted 01 December 2016 - 10:26 AM

wouldn't two smaller turbos spood better and move more air than one big one? And I didn't see bypass valve or a blowoff to vent the overpressure. I have always used bypass valves as they don't lead to overly rich mixtures when venting overpressure.

 

One thing that I liked about the Volvo 480 turbo I had was a turbo cooling. The coolant line going into the turbo had a temperature controlled electric waterpump that kept the cooland running when you shut down the engine. So the oil didn't cook in the bearings of the turbo and you didn't have a need to cool down the turbo before turning the engine off.

 

Still nice stang  - I don't get you guys over there obsessing about chevy vs ford. They both make same kind of cars.

 

PS. If you have a chance to change out polts that hold stuff together and get water on them use new hotcalvanized of stainless ones. I have repairing my friends Ford, as most of the bolts are rusted shut. Volvo had all the undercarrige bolts hotcalvanized or stainless. And aftes 15 years in this salty stuff all the bolts come loose easy.

 

I've got a 50mm BOV in there about 6" after the turbo, just can't see it in the pictures.  While twins would be nice and have been done once on one of these engines, no one actually makes a twin kit, in fact no one makes any other kit than this one for the engine. At any rate I have all of my boost right around 3k rpm and this turbo is capable of moving a lot more air than the engine can handle.  I like the idea of the electric water pump for the turbo, but on most modern ball bearing turbos it isn't as much of a concern as it once was.  Pretty much the only factory bolts left under the car are the strut/shock bolts.

 

This kind of thread pisses me off.....

I'm jealous ! 

Guys with the modern pony cars can buy tube subframes.

I can't :(

 

No wonder I hate mustangs.

(and why I take great pleasure picking on them late Friday nights)

 

This ain't no straight line car and don't make nearly enough power to be competitive with any fast cars.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#25 UnderControl

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Posted 01 December 2016 - 04:28 PM

Well, color me a sad panda. Driveshaft shop won't shorten aluminum shafts. So now I get to try and find a place that will or buy a new one. 


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#26 UnderControl

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Posted 05 December 2016 - 04:23 PM

Well, it didn't take me long to find a deal on 2 drive shafts. Picked up an aluminium that requires a pinion flange swap and a stocker in case I don't feel like doing that.

 

c6Gz82S.jpg

 

Didn't get either of them installed yet, because seasonal gift giving occasion had me busy making other things.

 

fR0gLm7.jpg

 

3Tr4A8P.jpg


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#27 UnderControl

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Posted 12 December 2016 - 08:16 PM

I wasn't sure if I really wanted to swap pinion flanges at first so I grabbed both the stock and aluminum shafts, but after realizing just how heavy a stock gt shaft was it didn't take long to make my decision.

RzD0gX0.jpg


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#28 UnderControl

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 08:28 AM

Well, between birthdays, holidays, cold days and playing with my new garage toy it took a while to get around to finishing this project. I finally got around to relocating the one pesky O2 sensor and making a few strategic dents to clear a few spots on the transmission then everything got bolted back together.

 

But she's back on the road.

P1jXCfE.jpg

 

Did a quick shake down run to the spray and wash to knock the layer of dust off and all seems well. New transmission is light years ahead of the old t5.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#29 UnderControl

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 06:41 AM

Since the days of having my first dedicated daily driver (read beater) I've managed to avoid the temptation to modify them. Well, that time has come to an end so now I have another money pit.

 

Shortly after picking up my new DD. 2001 Cherokee (heretofore xj) currently sitting on a 2.5" lift with some 30X9.5x15 tires, otherwise stock.

nxs2LWf.jpg

 

First step was mostly maintenance, diy sway bar disconnects, throwing on a cheap winch bumper, and swapping out the old busted add a leaf packs and spring spacers for proper coils and leaf packs. No pics of any of that, but now the real fun begins.

 

Getting a start on the quick/easy parts.

 

Replacing the busted steering spacer.

ByiNLTs.jpg

 

Adding some heat extraction just in time for winter.

mSo7f6h.jpg

 

Amassing parts

7REyi4L.jpg

 

gU8EtNa.jpg

 
I'm still waiting on some parts to show up before starting on phase 1 of 3 of the winter mini build. 
 
Phase 1
- Rear frame rail stiffeners 
- No lift shackle relocation boxes
- Bumper/tire carrier
- Clean and paint the underside of the rear section
 
Phase 2
- Mid section frame rail stiffeners
- replace rocker panels 
- Patch floor pans
- Sound deadening
- Clean/paint
 
Phase 3
- Front frame rail stiffeners
- Short arms
- Front locker
- Axle seals
- Paint all of the tings
 
Long term plan is to make this into a capable overlanding rig that can double as a mild/moderate wheeling toy.  As part of that goal there will be several other mods not listed in the above phases, mostly because they shouldn't actually require the xj be removed from service to do them. These other mods include, but are not limited to, dual battery, roof rack and removable sleeping platform.

"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#30 q-tip

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 05:52 PM

Watch out for that death wobble.

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...


#31 UnderControl

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 06:20 AM

No wobble here, but then again everything under the front end (except the ball joints) is new/upgraded.

 

Giant pile of parts got bigger.

GCdkGyw.jpg

 

I now have everything to start phase 1, but will likely wait until after the winter solstice holiday travels to get rolling. I did take the time last night to make sure that I could break loose the bolts holding on the hitch and only managed to snap 2 out of 8.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#32 UnderControl

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 06:00 PM

A new stand warmer/spare.

5M0iDQx.jpg

"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#33 Aibast

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 11:40 PM

will you upgrade the front steering shock also? Did that to my Disco and kept the wheels nice and tight on bad terrain. 


----2000 BMW 320d

----1987 Volvo 740 "van"

----2001 Renault Master - SOLD

----1996 Land Rover Discovery Tdi - SOLD

----1973 Volvo 142 DL 2.0  - SOLD

---- 2001 Volvo V70AWD 2.5 T5 - SOLD

---- 2004 Honda Civic 1.4L 5dr hatchback - Ecodaily - SOLD

---- 1996 Volvo 850 R 2.0L T5 155kW 300Nm - Daily driven family car - SOLD
---- 1979 Datsun 1500 (620) Pickup - Oldtimers rally car project - SOLD
---- 1992 Volvo 850 GL - one winter beater - SOLD
---- 1996 Volvo 480 Turbo - heavily modified trackcar --- youtube videos - SOLD
---- 1987 Volvo 744 Turbo - Turbobrick - TOTALED BY BMW
---- 1973 Volvo 142 GL - SOLD
---- 1983 Mazda 626 GC - SOLD


#34 UnderControl

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 05:58 AM

I have replaced the steering stabilizer with one that claims to be "Heavy Duty", but I suspect it was no different than the old one other than it being new. I did however do a little steering upgrade by switching to a ZJ tierod. Hard to tell in the picture, but the top one is the stock XJ which is a pretty thin walled hollow tube where as the lower one is a stock rod from a V8 ZJ (Grand Cherokee) which is a good chunk thicker and solid.

Picture courtesy of the internet.
fnRvoyZ.jpg

I managed to get the old hitch off last night. Reminded me a lot of the early days of working on the datsun. All told I snapped 3 bolts, cut 1 and was actually able to remove 4 of them.

dXueNLe.jpg

While I was out there I started to whip up a replacement for the fuel filler neck cover that has all but disintegrated.

hHgfga3.jpg

As long as snow holds out the real work should start next week.

"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#35 UnderControl

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 04:03 PM

I did start working on this project this week, but between getting sick and temps sticking to the high single digits I haven't accomplished much.

The one day I actually spent out there I managed to remove the rear sway bar...after 3 hours of dodling.

9rXZy8a.jpg

"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#36 UnderControl

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 05:50 AM

Well after weeks of doing nothing I'm back out in the garage ready to tackle this project. First steps in phase one were to remove the bumper and fuel tank.

 

How to gain access to bumper bolts when exactly zero fucks are given about the bumper.

JEjfwZM.jpg

 

But of course it wouldn't be a project without some unexpected additions to the list.

 

g6HghR6.jpg

 

buxAQmq.jpg

 

I guess its lucky that these spots are pretty simple to make panels for, and since they'll be hidden under some armor plating that came with the new bumper I don't have to bother taking time to make them perfect.

 

VI0mXKt.jpg

 

I feel like I could have just waited another couple of weeks for the tank to remove itself.

ywI3J4W.jpg

 

Now with the tank out of the way the real fun can begin. Lots of cutting, grinding and welding.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#37 UnderControl

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 07:28 PM

Back at it this evening. Old shackle boxes are now gone.

 

1mvBmgp.jpg

 

The PO certainly wasn't doing me any favors.

 

NUT6Pkp.jpg

 

Seems he had broken a bolt in the captive nut and rather than drill it out he just cut it out and welded in a washer to keep the bolt centered and then welded the head of said bolt to the outside of the shackle box. This is actually a little better than I had expected since I figured I'd have to drill out a broken bolt, but instead I just have to cut out a washer and weld in a new one with a nut attached.

 

Loosely test fitting the new bumper brackets and shackle boxes. I think I'm going to end up welding the new boxes to the bumper brackets, and while I'm at it I'll probably add some additional support to the boxes themselves.

 

DclZ0BR.jpg

 

NnzwAWW.jpg

 

Beyond that I managed to do the rough cuts for the corner rust repair.

 

17BOgYo.jpg

 

QUKJBwj.jpg

 

I also found a section of frame rail that I'll need to repair while I'm at it. The rest of the time was spent introducing the floor pan (luckily solid) to a wire wheel to knock down some surface rust.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#38 UnderControl

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 07:29 AM

First stiffener burned in.

 

Fv1p2uJ.jpg


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

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#39 UnderControl

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 01:31 PM

This week on Why did I decided to take apart my daily during winter, I got the other stiffener burned in, shackle brackets clearanced and bolted in and hung the bumper.

 

Prepped and ready to weld.

HKcp2rS.jpg

 

Welded and primed and verifying shackle/bumper bracket position as well as playing around with shackle positions. Not pictured, but I have also gone back through and seam sealed around the stiffeners.

Ff7dHB6.jpg

 

Some modification required for a proper fit. Some of which is well documented from other installs found on the internet and some of it specific to installing them along with this bumper.

wAs0Vos.jpg

 

Very heavy main section of the bumper in position.

ueegC8Q.jpg

 

Followed by the not as heavy swing arm.

z1a5MMH.jpg

 

And finally the tire carrier mount/tire so I could adjust the cam on the swing arm.

E82C8V5.jpg

 

while the bumper is on and mostly in position it does still need some adjustment, sadly I've maxed out the adjustment built into the brackets so I'll have to do some clearancing of my own.  This was also anticipated based on other install reviews. For now at least its close and doesn't interfere with the rear hatch so I can worry about final adjustment after I get the rest of the jeep put back together.


"If you are under control, you are going too slow." - Parnelli Jones

Dat build log


#40 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 09:33 AM

Nice Cherokee, good rigs with a bit of work. Your putting it in all the right places. :)


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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"