Clutch replacement, Nissan 720 4x4

[Syphious]

Idk, Would it be worth it to try Iridium's if seems to have been kept in good condition? What would be the possible drawbacks? 

[datzenmike]

I was saying that my engine was in good shape so pretty much any plug would do (preferably NGK) If it was an oil burner or worn out with low compression I don't no weather platinum or iridium would be an advantage or not. They just last longer don't they?

[Syphious]

Ah, mkay. And yeah just ngks usually are the best plugs, my 300 is only supposed to take obe type of ngk plug and no others.. But yeah thats true, guess itd be pointless unless I knew how well it really is. Oil holds steady and doesnt leak either and you cant smell it in the exaust so a compression test would probably be sufficient

[Lockleaf]

Without ignition upgrades, the only benefit you will see running an expensive plug is life cycle.  They do wear longer, and they really shine in high voltage applications, but for an old engine they really don't justify the extra money.  I would recommend getting the V-power plugs from NGK.  They are nickel plated copper core plugs.  Don't know whether it's just marketing puffery or not, but the nickel is supposed to help prevent plug binding in the head, and the V notch is supposed to help create some kind of minor improvement in the spark arcing across the plug gap.  Even if it's BS, I've been running these plugs for years in basically everything I own and I love them.

[Datsun pickup]

Does anyone know if Nissan would have used LUK clutches from the factory?

[datzenmike]

 By Schaeffler. Seems to be primarily after market. Though I have heard of LUK, I would say no to factory installed, probably made locally in Japan. The Nissan ones I have seen and examined never said either LUK or Schaeffler. Usually had the part numbers stamped on them though.

 

The '85 720 with Z24 or Z20 gas engine used a 240mm clutch disc and pressure plate. These part numbers can be used to cross reference an after market part.

 

Disc..................... 30100-P9201

Pressure plate... 30210-10W00

 

If your Nissan has one very possible that in the last almost 40 years it was replaced.

[Datsun pickup]

I replaced my clutch recently, but it won’t go into 1st gear and it grinds in reverse. What might that be?

[bottomwatcher]

You are probably not getting full throw on your clutch. May still have a little air in your slave cylinder.

[datzenmike]

1/ Did you bleed the clutch damper on the fire wall???

 

2/ Look at the push rod on the slave. It should move 1.18"

 

3/ What exactly did you buy as a replacement? If for an '85 720???? If yes then see 1/ and 2/  above

[banzai510(hainz)]

you us the same t/o bearing sleeve? otherwise if you used the orginalone then I look more towards bleeding thee system

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Many clutch kits these days come with the throwout bearing on a collar, so if you used the parts in the box, it theoretically should work.

 

I'd focus on bleeding the system and making sure your pedal is adjusted properly. Curious, does it have an adjustable rod at the slave? Guys have been known to swap in an adjustable pushrod at the slave to make adjusting the clutch easier.

 

Young mechanics are warned against bending a clutch disc upon installation of the trans. If the trans is allowed to sag after it has been stabbed into the disc, it is possible to bend the disc and will drag.

 

Last question - did the clutch ever work properly? Like before you tore into it?

[datzenmike]

Adjustable slave push rod was on the 510/521 and 240z through '72 then the slave was changed to not require it. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Right, but it was one of those mods that people (like me) made to make adjustments easy.

[datzenmike]

... but, adjustments not required.

[banzai510(hainz)]

on my 200sx 5 speed I went to the 510 throw arm and the adj 510 521 slave shaft.  Im sure the slave cylinder is the same just comes with the appropriate sized rod for your application.

the 200sx throw out arm has a pocket to fit the newer rod and sized for it. the stock 200sx 77-79 is a 200mm but the fingers on pressure plate do have a different height.

Edited June 22, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

521/510 slaves have different internal parts than later.  

[Datsun pickup]

No, my clutch system has never worked at all.

[datzenmike]

On 6/20/2023 at 3:19 PM, Datsun pickup said:

I replaced my clutch recently, but it won’t go into 1st gear and it grinds in reverse. What might that be?

 

 

 

On 7/3/2023 at 5:58 AM, Datsun pickup said:

No, my clutch system has never worked at all.

 

Did you check the following???? It's good advice and if there is a miss match of parts this will narrow it down.

 

 

 

On 6/20/2023 at 4:34 PM, datzenmike said:

1/ Did you bleed the clutch damper on the fire wall???

 

2/ Look at the push rod on the slave. It should move about 1.18".

 

3/ What exactly did you buy as a replacement? If for an '85 720???? If yes then see 1/ and 2/  above

 

[Datsun pickup]

I have bled the clutch damper and the push rod on the slave doesn’t move.

 

the slave cylinder is a beck arnley.

Edited July 5, 2023 by Datsun pickup

[datzenmike]

Now we are getting somewhere.

 

 

1/ Is the clutch master reservoir full???

 

2/ loosen the bleeder on the clutch slave and put a finger over the end. Have someone depress the clutch. Anything come out?

[Datsun pickup]

The master is full to max line.

 

I put my finger on the open bleeder on the slave, and had someone depress the clutch, and nothing came out.

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, Datsun pickup said:

The master is full to max line.

 

I put my finger on the open bleeder on the slave, and had someone depress the clutch, and nothing came out.

I'll give you a wierd trick I tried... I had similar issues getting my new stuff to bleed....

 

If nothing is coming out of the slave what about at the master cylinder?

 

I'd disconnect the line from the master and see if anything comes out... also if you block it with your finger does it stiffen the pedal?

 

Might need to bench bleed the master .....

 

What i did was make a brake line that threaded into the master the bent like a J to pump the fluid back into the master..... 

 

So what you do is have some push the pedal all the way and hold on the floor... the cover the outlet of the line you just made, then release the clutch pedal and then remove your figure.. when releasing the pedal you should see the fluid drop slightly... do this a couple times and then reconnect the line going to the slave and try to bleed the slave as you normally wood.... ( just saw you have something called a clutch damper) 

So bench bleed master,

Then the damper, 

Then the slave.  

 

Side note I was able to move fluid out the slave but couldn't get a pedal till i bench bleed the master ... 

Edited July 6, 2023 by Crashtd420

[banzai510(hainz)]

stick your finger over the intake hole inside the master and have soembody pump and see if then it sucks up the fluid to the slave

[datzenmike]

10 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

 

If nothing is coming out of the slave what about at the master cylinder?

 

I'd disconnect the line from the master and see if anything comes out... also if you block it with your finger does it stiffen the pedal?

 

Might need to bench bleed the master .....

 

 

So bench bleed master,

Then the damper, 

Then the slave.  

 

 

 

Exactly... and my next question.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had this happen to a clutch master. It wouldnt push the fluid. I cant remeber if it was a new one

I put my finger over the hole inside and soembody pushed the pedal a few times then it worked