Help with Engine ID

[satcat808]

Hey Guys,

 

I've been looking for a replacement engine for my E1 in my 65' L320 and came across this one the other day not sure what engine it is I am thinking its a A10?

 

The owner said it came out of a 1968 Datsun 1000.  Serial Number on the block looks like an R 02561

 

Things that caught my eye/interest is the dual intake manifold, finned valve cover and special oil pan....

 

Can anyone ID or help validate what engine this is.  I am looking to direct replacement for my E1.

 

Thanks for the help....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ppeters914]

R16 motor from '66-'67 roadster or 411SSS. That particular oil pan pegs it as coming from a RL411. The low engine number probably means a '66.

 

Cast iron head and 3 main bearings.

 

The Datsun 1000 (aka Sunny aka B10) never had the R16 motor, so if the PO is correct, then it was a swap.

[satcat808]

R16 motor from '66-'67 roadster or 411SSS. That particular oil pan pegs it as coming from a RL411. The low engine number probably means a '66.

 

Cast iron head and 3 main bearings.

 

The Datsun 1000 (aka Sunny aka B10) never had the R16 motor, so if the PO is correct, then it was a swap.

 

 

Thanks for the great info Pete.  Is this motor worth saving??  Comes with Trans too...

[MikeRL411]

One caution!  The type R engine in the RL411 came with an aluminum head, not a cast iron one.  Unless this is an aluminum head painted to match the block, someone has switched a J13 head onto the R1600 block.  It also looks like a roadster type thermostat housing.  I know someone who did just that, put a J13 head on the R block.  Big problem!  The J13 head gasket protruded into the larger diameter combustion chamber and the steel lip was beaten to death by the pistons.  An R engine head gasket was needed.  Not sure if he had to do surgery in order to align the coolant and oil passages.  Good luck!  By the way, my 1967 RL411 engine number is R 022XX and was assembled in October of 1966, so PPeters914 has that date down pat.

[67_1600]

One caution!  The type R engine in the RL411 came with an aluminum head, not a cast iron one.  Unless this is an aluminum head painted to match the block, someone has switched a J13 head onto the R1600 block.  It also looks like a roadster type thermostat housing.  I know someone who did just that, put a J13 head on the R block.  Big problem!  The J13 head gasket protruded into the larger diameter combustion chamber and the steel lip was beaten to death by the pistons.  An R engine head gasket was needed.  Not sure if he had to do surgery in order to align the coolant and oil passages.  Good luck!  By the way, my 1967 RL411 engine number is R 022XX and was assembled in October of 1966, so PPeters914 has that date down pat.

 

My guess is that it's just a cast iron R16 head.

[wayno]

J block heads only have two intake holes, 1/2 and 3/4 share intake holes, that head has 4 separate intake holes.

When I first seen this block, I thought it sorta looked like an R block, but it had a few things that made me waiver, so I suggested there were others that know this stuff more than me.

R blocks(roadster engines) are expensive to get parts for, although they likely are available, a good example is, the R16 timing chain kit is $250 plus, the R16 oil pump is $300 plus, a gasket kit at one site is $285 to $331, while at another site it is $350 plus, be grateful it is not a U20, a timing kit with all Nissan parts is over $2400. :(

Does this engine have an intake manifold for Dual SUs?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I wonder if that tach drive under the distributor would work on an A series motor.

[ppeters914]

Thanks for the great info Pete.  Is this motor worth saving??  Comes with Trans too...

 

 

Many of the parts can be purchased through Nissan fork lift parts houses (there's a great one in Kentucky). I got a timing chain for $30 and a new oil pump for $130 amongst other stuff. That said, the main bearings on the 3-main (like that one) are super pricey......$150 plus.

 

I have almost two grand into my rebuild. It's one reason I decided I wouldn't put a R16 into my 411. Money better spent on KA24 swap.

 

If I did do a R16 again, I would use a later 5-main and stroke it to two liters.....which is why I have a good 5-main block on my shelf.  :)

[ppeters914]

I wonder if that tach drive under the distributor would work on an A series motor.

I doubt it, but no harm in trying. Might be better to modify an L-series dizzy (matchbox or HEI) and loose the points.

[ppeters914]

One caution!  The type R engine in the RL411 came with an aluminum head, not a cast iron one.  Unless this is an aluminum head painted to match the block, someone has switched a J13 head onto the R1600 block.  It also looks like a roadster type thermostat housing.  I know someone who did just that, put a J13 head on the R block.  Big problem!  The J13 head gasket protruded into the larger diameter combustion chamber and the steel lip was beaten to death by the pistons.  An R engine head gasket was needed.  Not sure if he had to do surgery in order to align the coolant and oil passages.  Good luck!  By the way, my 1967 RL411 engine number is R 022XX and was assembled in October of 1966, so PPeters914 has that date down pat.

Sorry, but that's awful rusty to be an aluminum head.

 

1800 MG head on J13, sure, but J13 head on a R16? Can't imagine why anyone would do that or that it would even work. 

[MikeRL411]

I wonder if that tach drive under the distributor would work on an A series motor.

 

The early roadster tach drives were a worm gear connected to a mating gear on the distributor shaft driving what was essentially a speedometer calibrated in RPM since it was registering the distributor shaft revolutions.  Nothing electrical about it!  Without an early roadster mechanical tachometer you would be dead in the water.

[docbainey]

The early roadster tach drives were a worm gear connected to a mating gear on the distributor shaft driving what was essentially a speedometer calibrated in RPM since it was registering the distributor shaft revolutions.  Nothing electrical about it!  Without an early roadster mechanical tachometer you would be dead in the water.

 

No need to use a Roadster mechanical tach, there junk anyways. Just use a Jones mechanical tach available from Pegasus Racing.

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/038.pdf

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I doubt it, but no harm in trying. Might be better to modify an L-series dizzy (matchbox or HEI) and loose the points.

I would use an old Jones racing tach. The motivation here is "cool" not modern.

[ppeters914]

No need to use a Roadster mechanical tach, there junk anyways. Just use a Jones mechanical tach available from Pegasus Racing.

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/038.pdf

WHOA! $$$$$$$  :crying:

[wayno]

That's a lot of money for a tach, my roadster tach is 48 years old and doing just fine, I wonder how many Jones tach's are 48 years old.

[MikeRL411]

A lot of the Jones tachs are 40 years old, the real question is "Do they still work accurately?"  The old roadster tach is still basically a copper cup drag current induced mechanism like most speedometers and is time proven in the speedometer calibrated guise. Thank you Herr Professors Gauss and Hertz. i would guess that someone with access to sheet Aluminum printing and laser cutting could modify old Datsun speedometers to be calibrated to serve as tachometers in really old roadsters.  Any takers or really far out enterprenauers?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Jones tachs were used in everything from drag racing boats to gran prix cars back in the 60's so I don't doubt their accuracy. They have been used in racing ever since and are still used in open wheel racers and vintage racing sports cars.

 

The use of a "Jones" tach would be a style statement, a nod to racing past. Some things are done just for that reason. Actually a lot of my builds have some bit of vintage built into them, even if they're modern technology every where else. I've owned a couple Jones tachs, one of them was from a bona fide 2.5 Trans Am 510 racer.

[MikeRL411]

Sorry, but that's awful rusty to be an aluminum head.

 

1800 MG head on J13, sure, but J13 head on a R16? Can't imagine why anyone would do that or that it would even work. 

 

I'm thinking that the cast iron head on the RL411 block is perhaps a fork lift head.  The 1600cc roadster and RL411 heads were Aluminium, not iron. 

[ppeters914]

I'm thinking that the cast iron head on the RL411 block is perhaps a fork lift head.  The 1600cc roadster and RL411 heads were Aluminium, not iron. 

Putting the H20 forklift head would be less than optimal. I forget all the differences, but the H20 head you toss in metal recycle. They're worthless for roadster use.

 

The roadster R16 heads were iron until approximately mid-1967 and/or engine number R40001.