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77 datsun 620 distributor help


css1634

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HEI.jpg

 

Ok i wired it as showed in pic, i hooked module to each side of coil. Nothing happens, no fire. I have stock coil and ballast, what am i missing?

 

Is the HEI module securely grounded to something like a fender? Needs to be grounded!

 

 

The HEI works on 12 volts. Your ballast will drop this to 6-8 volts when running. Should start ok but may not run. I would suggest getting a '78 or later EI coil and get rid of the ballast and points coil.

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Just finished with a hei module swap on 77 620, truck will start but only when gas pedal and switch are released at same time..thats best i can explain it. Idle fair, revs great, diesels like hell, the red wire solenoid i hear click i hear nothing out of white wire solenoid, truck even runs same with it totally out, that isnt normal is it?

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Rather than start another post on this we could keep it in the HEI thread?

 

 

Are you saying the engine turns over during start but only fires when you release the key?

 

There are two wires from the ignition switch. One has power in the ON position, (but might be off during start)  the other during START. Both wires should be connected to the + terminal of the coil to provide power during start and run.  

 

Diesels? do you have the stock carburetor on it?

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Then the start wire is likely missing. Refer to this diagram...

 

HEI.jpg

 

On the '77, the On signal is the Black/White stripe wire. The START is the Black/Blue stripe wire. To be sure test with a meter. Just join together.

 

 

Dieseling...

 

Fuel to the idle circuit is turned off by a solenoid on the carb when the ignition is turned off. You should hear a click sound near the carb when the ignition is turned on, off, on, off. The idle cut solenoid is on the rear right side of the carb and has a Red wire to it. It may also have a black sheath covering it also but the wire inside is Red. This should have 12 volts only with the key on.

 

Assuming the idle cut is working and hasn't been tampered with, other causes of dieseling are...

 

Idle set much too high.

Choke stuck on or part on when engine is warmed up.

Carb flooding

 

 

Compression too high for the octane rating of the fuel you are using.

Spark plug too high a heat range or wrong make. Should be NGK BP6ES-11 with 0.039"-0.043"

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.... and yes stock carb

 

 

Dieseling...

 

Fuel to the idle circuit is turned off by a solenoid on the carb when the ignition is turned off. You should hear a click sound near the carb when the ignition is turned on, off, on, off. The idle cut solenoid is on the rear right side of the carb and has a Red wire to it. It may also have a black sheath covering it also but the wire inside is Red. This should have 12 volts only with the key on.

 

Assuming the idle cut is working and hasn't been tampered with, other causes of dieseling are...

 

Idle set much too high.

Choke stuck on or part on when engine is warmed up.

Carb flooding

 

 

Compression too high for the octane rating of the fuel you are using.

Spark plug too high a heat range or wrong make. Should be NGK BP6ES-11 with 0.039"-0.043"

 

 

Dieseling is an easy fix.

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Ok timing is set, plug gap is right, however its a champion cross reference plug. Choke pull off is working, wont idle until warm, then has a slight stumble. The sound from exhaust is like a low growl or popping every few secs. runs down road ok yet can still hear the skip a little. At full throttle while driving it will stall til i ease off a little.

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Yes correct! they are usually about 100 and 160 give or take. A clogged primary will run poorly if at all. A clogged jet has no effect on the idle as it has it's own gas supply and its designed into the carb.

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