Datsun510Boy Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 the same day i got my car back from the shop i ask my little ! no let me refraze that my baby sister to pick up my car with me then follow me home to drop it off in my other car . i pullup to the shop park right behind my 71 Datsun 510 which is parked out on the street since the shop is closing a he knew i was minutes away. as i exit the car i should have know something drastic was going to happen when she asks me "how do you shift it out of park" i gave her the benefit of the doubt because its a Bmw 745 li and i didn't know how to shift it right for a few hours also lol practice made perfect ! Anyway , i show her multiple times before i go hop in the Ten right in front of her i rev the engine because it just about warmed up and ready to take off i put her into first gear then all of a sudden the Beemer Slams right into the Back of me lol it sounded worse then it looked when i got out but it still looks horrific i want to pull myself auto body said 400 $ what do y'all think ? she did me dirty huh . what should i do i see all kinds of dent pulling kits which one should i try if any or should i pay the 4. shit it runs and drives Great still mind you i just payed for some carb work at the shop lol smh can't win for losing . What it do though ! Suggestions check me out though thats wack huh that was the hater move lol lil sis did me dirty and wouldn't even think to pay for it smh i asked her for help to pick up the 510 this what she did to me ! haha #fckit 1 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Eh, buy a set of hammers and dollies and take your time. Alot of that could probably be pushed out from inside the trunk. 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 That is a bit more than a "dent". It will need a variety of methods to repair. Remove the bumper, licence plate, Plate lights, Tail lights, the jewelry, ("510 emblem"), leave the paint on for now. Remove anything on the inside of the trunk, on the back panel. Pray you do not run into rust on the inside. I would then get two pieces of metal, and some "C" clamps, and where the panel is creased, in areas you can reach with the "C" clamp, put one piece of scrap metal on the outside, another in the inside, and try to center the "C" clamp on the top of the crease on the inside. do not put the "C" clamp near the edge of the flat pieces of metal. Tightening the "C" clamp will gently push most of the dent out. Try to do the deepest part of the dent first. Do not remove the whole dent in one area, try to work the whole panel out together, in a lot of little steps. Think how the metal was bent. Part of the metal was hit first, as as that was pushed in, the point of contact increased to a larger area, as the initial point of contact was being pushed farther out of place. A little bit of metal theory. When stress (a force) is applied to metal, there are two stages of deformation. Elastic deformation, and plastic deformation. Simply put, elastic deformation springs back, plastic deformation stays. Elastic deformation is like a rubber band, plastic deformation is like wet clay, or Play-Do. Metal can shrink, metal can stretch, metal can bend, But a bend is really a stretch on the outside edge of the bend, and a shrink on the inside of the bend. The reason you want to use large pieces of flat metal and a "C" clamp to move the large areas is the force is spread out. Use a hammer and a dolly at first, and you will just create a lot of little dents, each with its own shrunk, and stretched parts, that will create problems later. Most of the metal that you see as bent, is really straight, but is being held out of position by the creases that are really bent. Working the metal like this should remove 90% of the dent. You will see the gap with the trunk lid even out, but may still be a little low. the whole surface of the panel should be with in ideally 1/4 of an inch of where is should be. but there will still be the creases caused by the accident. The creases are telling you that the metal got stretched and shrunk in that localized area. Now you need hammer and dolly. There are two basic techniques of using a hammer and dolly. Hammer on dolly and Hammer off dolly Hammer on dolly is the hammer hits the metal on the exact spot the dolly is making contact under the hammer impact. this stretches the metal in the area of the hammer impact. Think of hitting a small clay pellet with a hammer. the pellet gets thinner, and spreads out. Hammer off dolly is hitting the metal close to where the dolly is in contact with the metal. If the hammer hits a high spot next to a low spot that the dolly is on contact with, that can move both the high spot, and the low spot closer to flat, and the metal between both areas can actually shrink between the two. This technique is very useful, because a major part of the damage is metal that was stretched when the accident happened. It may be you need to do the "C" clamp major metal moving first, do some hammer and dolly work, "C" clamp some more,,and back to hammer and dolly work, several times. Try to bring the whole panel back to the original position together. If you do not have any hammers or dollys, I would suggest getting this kit. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-7-piece-professional-hammer-set.html There are three hammers, three dollys, and a dinging spoon. The dinging spoon is very useful in the final stages of removing the final creases of the dent. This is my selection of hammers. The hammers are arranged according to how flat the faces of the hammers are. The right hammer has a flat face. As you go to the left, each hammer has a rounder, or smaller radius face, up to the 8 OZ ball peen hammer. You can use a yardstick to see how close you are to getting the panel straight. You use your hand moving across the panel to feel the dents. If there is just paint on the outside of the metal, and paint on the inside, you do not need to remove the paint to do most of the metal work. Then when you think you are done moving metal, using a flat sanding block on the outside of the metal will show you the areas that still need more metal work. With patience, you could probably get this panel flat enough to not require any plastic body filler. Yes, it will take some time. A final thought. It is better to move a piece of sheet metal a half inch by moving it .001 of an inch 500 times, than moving it a quarter of an inch each time, by hitting it twice. 6 Quote Link to comment
Datsun510Boy Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 thanks for that information yeah i can access it all from the trunk i think I'm going to order the hammer and dolly kit maybe a glue pull kit i don't know . but yeah watching some of the videos i think i might be successful ill give you guys a update when i give a crack at it . also what size "C" clamp ? Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Wow...damn...can't begin to tell you what I'd do to someone that did that to my ride and refused to make it right, family or no. My wife backed her open door like a knife into my rear quarter, near 10 years ago, she's still paying for it in little ways. Her idea of making it right was buying some primer and filler so I could fix it myself. I said fuck the filler and roughed it out, her dad is going to help me with the rest of the body and paint. I hope you can get it back to where it should be, take your time on it, body work is time intensive. Quote Link to comment
DaBlist Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 lots of useful vids on Youtube Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 What size "C"? One that reaches to where you want to put pressure on the two flat pieces of metal clamping the sheet metal straight. Throat depth, more than length is what you need. You might need two or even three clamps. For flat pieces of steel, scrap flat stock, 1/2 inch thick, or more is fine. I live close to a place that sells new steel, and out in front, they have racks and bins of scrap steel that they sell by the pound. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=115&Itemid=113 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Another option if you get in too deep... just buy a replacement rear panel. Not a cheap option by any means. $255 plus shipping. Then cost to install.. paint.. But you get a nice new panel with no rust. Purely just another option. The panel could be repaired as mentioned above. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=51&category_id=15&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=75&vmcchk=1&Itemid=75 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 good info.....throat depth, more than length is what you need" quote of the day Quote Link to comment
Vinnie Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Iv been a body man for .....ever ....30 years now 400$ would be a good deal And it's pro done iv cleaned up after the owners have made "repairs" they caused more damage then they fixed. Have em just fix it to primer! and do the paint your self poof can style . Because it looks like there's a lot of Ummm patina on the rest of the rear of the car. If the shop paints it the fresh paint will look odd Quote Link to comment
Datsun510Boy Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 yeah i was thinking about just paying the 400 have it done right . that would just have to wait for 400 days to happen hahahaha nah few weeks but yeah i don't know maybe pull it see what happens Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Something like that is not for the faint of heart, if your ever going to re paint the car, remove all the lights an such, try to pop it out as best you can, and wait to pay some one to do all the body work. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Shit you are in San Diego take that shit to Mexico and get it done and tell them to work the metal not fill 1" dents with filler Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I would pay the $400 and forget about it. It was your fault for letting your inexperienced sister to drive your car she had not driven before. Man up! 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsun510Boy Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 haha i feel it your right charlie69 imma man up Get it done ! Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Always sad to see these sorts of accidents, seems the equivalent to a senior citizen falling and breaking a hip, the beginning to the end. Buy the replacement panel and have the shop replace the old. Should cost about the same as you could do the prep work such as removing the old panel, getting all the trim, lights, and rubber out of the shops way, then all they have to do is stitch in the new panel and you reassemble at home on your time$$$. No excessive body filler and you have a better ass than you started off with. My 2 cents 1 Quote Link to comment
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