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Finally got back into Datsuns.


spdcrazy

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Been a lurker for a long time, posted a bit about my old 510 goon a couple years ago, then i moved to Alaska where Datsun's do not seem to exist.

 

Now i'm back in the states, Denver Colorado to be exact, and on wed I should become the proud owner of a 71 datsun 521!

 

From what I have been told (little of this has been verified yet). I'll be the fourth owner. It was bought new at a dealership in Las Cruces by a farmer, He used it for a while, then sold it to his farmhand. Farmer passed away and the farmhand put it in a barn for 15 or so years. Then the now owner bought it 3 years ago for his son, who soon grew to 6ft 5 or something and couldn't fit in it. 

 

Now owner says it had a spare under it with the date 1971, and the odometer says 21k. Interior is completely shot thanks to the desert sun. but the body is completely rust free, and only a couple small dings visible on the lower part of the bed corners. There is a new weber on it due to the hitachi leaking, and the owner said the timing chain was rattling so he replaced it and learned the tensioner was broken, (thinking maybe due to sitting for years, and not due to wear?) also the freeze plugs were bad when he bought it, again most likely due to sitting for so long.

 

other than that it seems like a great start. Any thing more I could look at to help verify if it in fact is an original 21k truck? title was lost so I can't check that, new one comes with it, clean, not salvaged. 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/tznz0os91k9ruzi/AADnVeTm5kQbkZ92Njq5wN67ahopefully this will work. I don't know Mac's to well. 

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The timing chain should not rattle until at least 121,000 miles.

even with a lot of sitting time? That was my thoughts as well, but it was plastic right? maybe with heat of the desert it got brittle?

 

honestly It doesn't much matter, but if it were a original 21k truck, i'd be less inclined to swap in the 20b i found today

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Does the Colorado DMV offer a "Title Search" function?  Many states do.  It will trace the registrations back to delivery and if you are luck will record the odometer mileage at each title transfer.

 

This I don't know, I'll do some research, maybe call a NM DMV tomorrow, as well.. Thanks for the idea!

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Ohh found a 78 620 pickup today. So far I have found no benefit to the dizzy as its one year to old for the matchbox, 

Leaf springs won't help it when i lower it as its not a 4x4,

 

but, would the head be of any benefit for my factory L16? I know there are a few L series heads and i'll continue to search. Just not ready to buy the whole 20b yet, 

 

Anything else I should look into getting off the 78 for my 71?

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If the timing chain non metal pieces could not survive sitting in Arizona heat, how would they ever survive the heat of a running engine?

Compression on an USA L-16 engine should be 159 to 171 PSI.

 

How do the rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedal look?

The seat looks like way more than 21,000.

The fuel pump is not the original one.

those are not the original taillights.

 

But lack of rust is a huge bonus. 

 

In my mind, 21,000, or 121,000 or even 221,000 would not make a lot of difference.   This is a 45 year old truck.  The mileage is not that critical.   in fact, I would almost like it more if it did have 121,000 miles because than that would match the apparent wear of the seat, fuel pump replacement, taillight replacement, etc. 

 

The 620 is useful for the engine, and transmission, especially if a five speed.   Maybe rear axle.  Not much other useful stuff.   

 

Some 521 useful information.  All the body bolts are USA SAE sized.  That means bolt diameter in fractions of an inch, but with fine threads.

You must adjust the brakes a lot.  They are not self adjusting,  

Need parts?

Find part numbers here.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun520/Datsun520521Index.aspx

 

Wash under the front fenders, in front, over the top of the headlight buckets.  In the back of the front fenders, all along where they are bolted to the cab, especially low.

 

My suggestion, get it stopping, fix the brakes first, then get it running.  Leave it stock at first.  A stock Datsun is a reliable Datsun.

 

If you keep the L-16 engine, you need a tachometer.  You need to get used to 4,000 RPM, at 60 MPH.  The engine has a 6,500 yellow zone, and 7,000 RPM redline.  If you are driving at 2,500 RPM, and want to accelerate, you need to downshift.  You drive in 25 MPH zones in third gear.  This engine likes to be revved.   It is not your father's Oldsmobile.

 

A mostly accurate wiring diagram.

521wires.jpg

 

The fuse box is a weak link in the truck.  It is barely adequate for a stock 521 45 years ago.  Glass tube fuses can look good, and be bad.  It is a good idea to clean the contacts on the fusebox.

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If the timing chain non metal pieces could not survive sitting in Arizona heat, how would they ever survive the heat of a running engine?

Compression on an USA L-16 engine should be 159 to 171 PSI.

 

How do the rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedal look?

The seat looks like way more than 21,000.

The fuel pump is not the original one.

those are not the original taillights.

 

But lack of rust is a huge bonus. 

 

 

I am aware of the not original fuel pump, I believe that they wired up an electric pump. Next to the battery, on the outside? and the mechanical pump is just used as a "block off plate" of sorts. I haven't seen the truck in person yet, so I can't tell ya the pedal wear, although that is something I didn't think of, Ive used it as a rule of thumb in the past, just forgot about it, thank you!

hate the trailer tail lights on it, but it'll be legal until i find a new pair, 620 maybe, I agree on the seat looking like its from the titanic era, but that i know sun and heat causes. 

I agree on the tensioner heat theory. Been a while since I was in the datsun game, didn't know if the tensioners had some issues that caused them to break of if this might be a 121k truck instead. 

 

 

up close inspection will tell me a lot, just trying to get my head in the game before i get there. price is already right, so I expect she will come home. Supposedly the owner was getting it ready for the road so there is new cap/rotor/plugs/wires, some exhaust pieces, brakes all around, tires. I expect thats where that mechanical fuel pump came into play as well. 

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Thanks DanielC. I have read this information recently but now it'll be easier to find. Agreed on getting it solid and reliable first, but dat sun's in salvage yards are hard to come by, so I might grab a few things for later on. Not sure what trans the 620 had, but i'll find out!

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Go back to the mechanical fuel pump.  Especially if you can get a used OEM one.  They are very durable, and last a long time. 

There is a stock fuel pump on this engine.

 

OilOneBottle_zps259b7dd4.jpg

 

This is a thread on one of my Datsun 521 trucks I originally bought as a parts truck.  It is a daily driver, "work in progress"  I got it on the road in August of 2013.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/

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Go back to the mechanical fuel pump.  Especially if you can get a used OEM one.  They are very durable, and last a long time. 

 

 

 

I plan too. 

 

also, i've "thumbed" through your build already, plan to go through it deeper as time allows. 

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Ok. It came home with me. Had to tow it the last half of the way. Having two issues. Haven't had a bunch of time to troubleshoot yet.

It's getting hot while driving on the freeway.

Then the carb isn't getting fuel. Mechanical pump isn't putting out. Then the aftermarket ele quit. As did my mr. Gasket replacement. Awaiting an oem pump from a junk yard.

Pictures to come as I can't post them via my phone

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Today I didn't have much time, but i removed the aftermarket electric fuel pump, and replaced the mechanical one with a Autozone replacement. Should have my OEM one in about a week. She ran and i took her around the block.

 

It is still overheating, but it seems to do so with constant higher RPM's. not neighborhood driving. I'll pull the T stat tomorrow and see what i see.

 

Computer is being slow so no pictures today. but i do have a couple questions.

 

The shifter seemed really loose, so I expected to find the bushings worn out, however that isn't my problem. Is there a common problem with really loose shifters. Any gear has a free range of motion at least 6in in any direction. Seems to be an internal Transmission thing.

 

Also, from what i can tell the original paint wasn't scuffed up before someone thought it was a smart idea to rattle can primer the whole thing. Is there a good way to take off the primer without tearing up the clearcoat of the original paint? Acetone to strong? graffiti remover? 

 

 

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In the 1970's I towed a two horse trailer wit two horses all over the Pacific Northwest.  With a 521/ L-16 or L-18 combo.

When climbing a 6% grade, over 5,000 RPM, almost WOT, in second gear, in summer heat, I would turn the heater on, to keep the temp not far off the normal line.  Once on top of the hill, the heater was off.  

 

First thing, flush out the cooling system, and radiator.  Get a thermostat from Nissan.  Nissan parts are more expensive than chain auto store parts, but are much higher quality.

 

There is no filter on the fuel pickup pipe in the gas tank.  If there is crud in the gas tank. it can collect around the pipel and block fuel flow.

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Acetone was my first thought as well. I'll try it on my door panels.

 

I am aware of the shotty quality and have a Oem pump coming this week.

 

I'm flushing the eaten today. And checking the tstat. Was going to go with a beck arnley. Could go Nissan just te same. Thoights?

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This is my daily driver 521.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/

I know from experience Datsun L-16 engines are cold blooded.  After flushing out the cooling system, and putting a Nissan thermostat in the engine, the temp gauge goes to a needle width above the black line on the temp gauge, and stays there.   If the engine sits for a minute or so, when it has been ran, and is fully warmed up, and I turn the engine off, and restart a minute or so later, the temp gauge flares higher, because water is not circulating, when the engine is stopped.  It goes right back to a needle width above normal within about 10 to 15 second after restart.

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The shift linkage is normally "loose". You just get used to it. You can shim the sides of the fork that goes over the rod going into the transmission, but other than that, not a lot to do.

It is all shimmed up. I can't believe it's made to be THAT loose. But I can deal with it. And prob will until a 20b and 5 speed finds it's way home

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