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Snake pit - rhino built


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#41 Rhino13

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 11:29 PM

I think I met you kind of.. at the work party. I think and your friend took off as I got there in the white tacoma.


Yeah I remember seeing you. The giveaway truck is looking so killer! My truck will also look much different (better) next time you hopefully see it!

#42 datzenmike

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Posted 23 February 2015 - 07:44 AM

The adjuster is a ratchet mechanism. When the travel of the shoes is above the next notch on the star wheel the adjustor bares on it and it is turned ever so slightly and shoe travel is reduced. I remember 60s cars were supposidly adjusted by backing up but unless the shoe travel is farther in reverse than forward it shouldn't matter. Shoe travel is shoe travel, the shoes don't know forward from reverse, they only know out and in from the wheel cylinder and the return springs. The self adjusters were introduced in '82.5 on the 720. 

 

A friend showed me the coke bottle full of water trick back in the '60s on his 283. He uncapped the headers and the crap blew all over the driveway where you could see it. .


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#43 Rhino13

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Posted 23 February 2015 - 08:40 AM

So technically, assuming they are still working (for the sake of my knowledge), every time I go forward from reverse or vise versa, they adjust themselves?
When I saw you said it was ratcheting I pulled out a memory of completely taking apart the rear end on an 89 Ranger I had. It was a huge pain in the ass and I highly discourage anyone from those trucks. There's no fill cap/hole for the rear axle and rear diff. I guess Ford assumed once it's done you trash the vehicle?

I talked to my dad last night about the water trick and he's done it in a Z car he used to have.

So I trashed the idea of getting new rims and tires because my cash flow is limited. So I've been exploring my options, and I'm going to keep it stock mostly. I'm painting the rim itself black, and leaving the cap and beauty ring gray. I want to get 1-2" wheel spacers so they are closer to flush with the side of the truck.
Does anyone have experience with wheel spacers?

#44 Rhino13

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 12:11 AM

More progress on the truck! Got it lowered about 2 1/2" up front and went with 3" in the rear. Rides about an inch above the bump stop but it's smooth and feels great driving around, setting aside the fact that I have to dodge every little divet in the road.

Starting the day off
20150223_124329_zpseb9cb292.jpg

Rallye status
IMG_20150223_123753592_HDR_zpsa9d948fb.j

U bolts off all dirty
IMG_20150223_132849000_HDR_zpsad94c230.j

All cleaned up
IMG_20150223_132638576_HDR_zps90440ae2.j

Blocks in place, sorry for the out of focus
IMG_20150223_151159808_HDR_zpsfe2e444e.j

Rear profile
IMG_20150223_151120774_HDR_zps14427429.j

Front profile, painting the wheels black but keeping the beauty ring and center cap original. Also going to 205's all around, these 195's up front are too small.
IMG_20150223_151127963_HDR_zps259c5d0f.j

So one of the nuts was hard to thread on to one of the ends on a u bolt. I got it on about half an inch before I would've had to torque on it and ruin the threads. Limped it to work a few blocks away with everything besides that one bolt done. After work limped it to autozone to replace it and the bolt locked itself. Eventually got it off with a breaker bar I luckily had but it took us almost two hours to get it all set and done in the parking lot...
20150223_205611_zps666f215f.jpg

And the final product from earlier in the day when it was being limped around (it drove perfect but I didn't go over 30mph) getting new front end parts from denmarkboy sometime soon so it'll look complete!
IMG_20150223_151141211_HDR_zpse77b3bc8.j

I also cleaned up some visors from denmarkboy, still need a bit of scrubbing but one paper towel with simple green does a lot. Thanks again for hooking it up!
IMG_20150223_113248790_HDR_zps749a65ee.j

It's coming along!

#45 datzenmike

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 06:28 AM

So technically, assuming they are still working (for the sake of my knowledge), every time I go forward from reverse or vise versa, they adjust themselves?


Only when the shoe wears down. This increases the shoe travel enough that the adjuster travels past the star wheel. When the brakes are released the adjuster returns but catches the star wheel and turns it slightly which moves the shoe outward reducing the travel and restoring the brake setting. This attempt to adjust occurs every time you use your brakes not just backing up.



I want to get 1-2" wheel spacers so they are closer to flush with the side of the truck.
Does anyone have experience with wheel spacers?


You would also need to replace the wheel studs with longer ones. That's 24 of them at $5 ? or more each plus the spacers. I would hold off on this. Eventually you will be replacing the tires with something wider and the rims can also be replaced with a different off set or back spacing that gets you more flush.
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#46 denmarkboy

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 06:51 AM

More progress on the truck! Got it lowered about 2 1/2" up front and went with 3" in the rear. Rides about an inch above the bump stop but it's smooth and feels great driving around, setting aside the fact that I have to dodge every little divet in the road.

Starting the day off
20150223_124329_zpseb9cb292.jpg

Rallye status
IMG_20150223_123753592_HDR_zpsa9d948fb.j

U bolts off all dirty
IMG_20150223_132849000_HDR_zpsad94c230.j

All cleaned up
IMG_20150223_132638576_HDR_zps90440ae2.j

Blocks in place, sorry for the out of focus
IMG_20150223_151159808_HDR_zpsfe2e444e.j

Rear profile
IMG_20150223_151120774_HDR_zps14427429.j

Front profile, painting the wheels black but keeping the beauty ring and center cap original. Also going to 205's all around, these 195's up front are too small.
IMG_20150223_151127963_HDR_zps259c5d0f.j

So one of the nuts was hard to thread on to one of the ends on a u bolt. I got it on about half an inch before I would've had to torque on it and ruin the threads. Limped it to work a few blocks away with everything besides that one bolt done. After work limped it to autozone to replace it and the bolt locked itself. Eventually got it off with a breaker bar I luckily had but it took us almost two hours to get it all set and done in the parking lot...
20150223_205611_zps666f215f.jpg

And the final product from earlier in the day when it was being limped around (it drove perfect but I didn't go over 30mph) getting new front end parts from denmarkboy sometime soon so it'll look complete!
IMG_20150223_151141211_HDR_zpse77b3bc8.j

I also cleaned up some visors from denmarkboy, still need a bit of scrubbing but one paper towel with simple green does a lot. Thanks again for hooking it up!
IMG_20150223_113248790_HDR_zps749a65ee.j

It's coming along!

 

IMG_20150223_151141211_HDR_zpse77b3bc8.j
 

 

hell yes dude looking much better !



#47 datzenmike

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 07:44 AM

Any lowering or raising will affect the front camber and toe alignment. The more you lower the more it changes. Toe isn't that noticable on dry pavement but it wears the ties fast and unevenly. I found my truck would turn normally into a corner (like a driveway) but then the wheel would almost turn in more by itself. On wet pavement if one wheel hit a puddle the truck would dart over to that side. Parked in the driveway if a crossed the street and lookd at, it the two front wheels were pointed right at me they were that far out. 

 

 

You seem kind of a hands on guy so take a look in my 710 goon build thread. I have a way to check/adjust the toe in. Takes some time but costs nothing. 


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#48 Lockleaf

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 10:41 AM

Wheel spacers would require longer studs, wheel adapters have new studs in them and bolt to your old studs, the wheel bolts to the new studs. A basic set starts around $60 for two $100 for four

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#49 Rhino13

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 09:33 PM

Not doing wheel spacers. Just waiting until I find a good deal on rims and tires.

More work today...

Front end torn down to be replaced
IMG_20150225_100834028_zps2yocdgsu.jpg

Getting sexier by the minute
IMG_20150225_110046144_HDR_zpsgqtwoasv.j

Pretty damn good if you look at how rough the core support is
IMG_20150225_115142114_HDR_zpshwjnq35r.j

I bought the truck 20 days ago for $800, threw $200 into parts and spent a few hours here and there with a HUGE help from denmarkboy. Thanks again!
Before
IMG_20150206_173910725_HDR_zpsqwkbdpi4.j

After
IMG_20150225_125506_zpsdloccmiz.jpg

#50 datzenmike

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 07:24 AM

Not doing wheel spacers. Just waiting until I find a good deal on rims and tires.



Some marriage advice. Figurwe out what will fit and what will work on your truck NOW. This will avoid the problem of you falling in love with some bling rim that doesn't work and you trying to modify the truck to make it fit. I see this all the time and it never ends well. Marry within your species
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#51 Rhino13

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 09:38 AM

Some marriage advice. Figurwe out what will fit and what will work on your truck NOW. This will avoid the problem of you falling in love with some bling rim that doesn't work and you trying to modify the truck to make it fit. I see this all the time and it never ends well. Marry within your species


Haha I like your analogy. Thanks for the tip though, and not to worry this is something I've already considered. Denkmark boy is helping me find some wheels and his "Road Dog" 720 has a similar setup to what I'm looking for. A little bit wider for the profile and a bigger rim so a flat doesn't tear my undercarriage apart.

#52 denmarkboy

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 07:27 AM

Dang that truck looks better !  Now you just need to give that thing a good bath and wax .  :poke:



#53 Rhino13

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Posted 01 March 2015 - 09:45 AM

Well I did the entire cab last night and had to finish with a headlamp, and woke up to a layer of frost. So here's before waxing:
IMG_20150228_174232296_zpsncadlawt.jpg

I'll post finished when the bed is done.

#54 Scurrvy

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 02:05 PM

Looks really good man!

 

Motivating me to get mine looking that good!

 

 

So you have 205's on all four?



#55 Rhino13

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 07:59 PM

Looks really good man!

Motivating me to get mine looking that good!


So you have 205's on all four?


Thanks man! It's coming along, still needs a few things...
Right now the rear is 205 front is 195. Later this week I'm getting a set of Weld Racing 16" wheels. They're either 205 or 215, I'll let you know when I grab them.
If you look up where I posted the lowering process I put pictures of where it sits on the tires. I can pm you some when I throw the new wheels on to give you a idea.

#56 Rhino13

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 09:42 PM

And waxed!
IMG_20150303_104955403_HDR_zpsmpsfqs5o.j

New wheels and tires later this week, and I need to put a clear coat on that fender and the valance. Also really need to replace that big bushing that holds the bearing where the drive shaft splits. I know some of it is wheel vibration because of all the tires being out of balance, but I can feel it shake when I go into 5th around 60mph.

#57 Rhino13

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 12:24 AM

Got the new wheels on!
IMG_20150305_141415887_HDR_zpsanb78suk.j

They are 225/60r16 and they just BARELY don't rub. Denmark boy rolled the back fenders quite a bit then I kept going a bit more. Still want to do the front and more on the back but it's not rubbing so I called it a day. My rear springs are really worn out, so I'm considering just keeping the fenders where I have them and getting a new (used) set off of one that still sits right.

Also removed the Nissan logo on the console to find that Nissan was just clipped over Datsun! I cut it out to install gauges though. Gave both pieces a good fresh coat of black. The part that holds the gauges was tan. Can someone help me out with the location of the plug for the batt/oil gauges? I've located all the plugs visible to me with blue tape and none of them are the right size/shape.
IMG_20150306_240126221_zpsopyhsow4.jpg

#58 denmarkboy

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 06:01 AM

O what a change !

 

IMG_20150223_151141211_HDR_zpse77b3bc8.jIMAG0181_zpsqnmjm4at.jpg



#59 81SVN20

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 08:00 AM

That looks really good.... What size are the wheels all around 16x?

#60 Rhino13

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 09:52 AM

That looks really good.... What size are the wheels all around 16x?


Thank you! I'm really glad with how it's turning out. Yeah they're 16's on 225 tires. Not sure on the backspacing, I can measure if you're curious.


More pictures!
Here's where the rear sits completely maxed out with weight. If you can't tell, that's about a half inch of clearance.
IMG_20150306_093811398_zpsmhw9qf63.jpg

Also got the console back together with gauges and it looks pretty sweet, although I need help on the location of the plug for them.
IMG_20150306_093729318_HDR_zpspo063sg1.j

Getting a crack free dash soon, new corner running lights, and a few other small things. Does anyone have any tips for what to do with the empty space when removing the bumper on 83 and up trucks?