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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/02/tech-how-to-l-series-cylinder-head.html?m=1

 

Check this link out, it has all the

L series heads and shows the differences. I have a w53 head on an l16 and love it. But I'd check your compression ratio out with what ever your planning on using just to be safe...

That is a more descriptive early head link than this one in the link below, but now I have both bookmarked. :)

http://www.olddatsuns.com/html/tech/head_ID_2.htm

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  • 2 weeks later...

Im getting my w53 tomorrow and have been thinking about what I want to do with it. I'm leaning more toward getting it ported with bigger valves then putting that on the lz22 since the z24 cranks can't spin as fast. I also came across those 45dcoe style throttle bodies and have been doing some research on megasquirt or something similar. It would be an easier way to go efi since no custom manifold would be needed. But I would source a dual side draft intake rather than trying to tune it on the cannon single.

Any info on those units would be great, and any recommendations for shops that know datsuns and can do good head work, but is cheaper than rebello as my pockets are only so deep. Looking forward to getting some more stuff done soon.

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The w53 comes with 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves. How much bigger do you think you can go?

Doesn't seem like there is too much room left for bigger valve.. just my opinion..

This is my w53 head .

20160211_152951_zpsduyuqteb.jpg

 

While I agree porting will be beneficial, (saving up for that personally)

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The w53 comes with 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves. How much bigger do you think you can go?

Doesn't seem like there is too much room left for bigger valve.. just my opinion..

This is my w53 head .

20160211_152951_zpsduyuqteb.jpg

 

While I agree porting will be beneficial, (saving up for that personally)

Yeah I was tired and didnt do much searching around (even though there were 2 links posted above...) but I did realize this morning they already have big valves. Thanks for the picture though, that's one clean head!

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Haven't driven the truck in a a few weeks so I took a cold start video. Exhaust rattles a bit still but it starts right up everytime.

 

 

I was talking to Draynor and I'm going to stick to the original plan of c notching and going lower. It will get drop spindles up front, new shocks all around because I'm pretty sure mine are original...and Belltech leafs so I dont have to use big blocks, if any. And new exhaust to tuck it up a bit more and step it all up to 2.25 all the way back. I was thinking about goimg back to stock wheels with 620 caps on them, but I think I'm going to keep what I've got and possibly do small flares. Even if I rolled the fenders they would end up rubbing when its lower.

Rhino does this truck have vented rotors? if it does the drop spindles will go right on.  15" wheels and up I did mods on my 520 too use 14" 78/79 620 disk brake wheels but still not not positive it will work.

 

The drop spindles work with the 85 86 720 front dust sheilds , calipers, and rotors or hard body brake parts.

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So this is a question about my hardbody, but it can transfer to other things...

I took the drive line out to change the u joints and carrier bearing, got all the u joints changed then tackled the carrier. When I got the bolt and washer off (after fighting it with my impact for over an hour) it looked as if the spline had turned together and got stuck. I tried to get a good picture but its hard to tell because its so small, but you can see down in between each spline where the shaft spline should be. Has anyone heard of this happening? I put it on my buddies 20 ton press and it still wouldn't come apart...which sucks since I put all those u joints in already.

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So i don't thinks there are spines where that bearing goes, I think the spines end, there just long enough for the end piece that's bolted on ... didnt you say you have a new carrier bearing ready to put back in? Take a look.. is the bore splinded or smooth?...

either way just get surgical with a cutoff wheel you should be able to cut deep enough into the bearing in a couple spots to break it off with a hammer and chisel.... I think your still ok ... just it's really stuck...

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So i don't thinks there are spines where that bearing goes, I think the spines end, there just long enough for the end piece that's bolted on ... didnt you say you have a new carrier bearing ready to put back in? Take a look.. is the bore splinded or smooth?...

either way just get surgical with a cutoff wheel you should be able to cut deep enough into the bearing in a couple spots to break it off with a hammer and chisel.... I think your still ok ... just it's really stuck...

Sorry I wasn't very clear about it, the end piece that's holding the carrier on is what's stuck on the spline. I got the bolt and washer off so the spline is exposed, but you can see gaps as if it somehow spun ever so slightly and locked itself in place.

Also was the stock drive line on the 90s d21 a spicer? All the joints and the line was all spicer and all very worn out.

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Oh that's a bit different. You definitely don't wanna cut that piece off... I follow what your saying now..

Only other thing I can say is try standing the driveshaft on end and soak the end in

Pb blast or wd40 or something for a day or so even try and make a puddle on top and let it soak down.. and finally heat and that press again... goodluck

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Oh that's a bit different. You definitely don't wanna cut that piece off... I follow what your saying now..

Only other thing I can say is try standing the driveshaft on end and soak the end in

Pb blast or wd40 or something for a day or so even try and make a puddle on top and let it soak down.. and finally heat and that press again... goodluck

It doesnt puddle on top since it can leak between the spline, but I did soak it the day before I tried the press. Its already been a week long ordeal, might be time to hit a wrecking yard...

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I've read through those links and a few others but couldn't find anything on this. Can I put a w58 cam in a w53 without issue? If so I'm going to swap it out and run the w53, should be able to get it done before Canby along with a few other things. I need to check out the clutch and trans so all of it is going to come out to make the work easier.

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The cam's are the same. However, if you swap the cam you really should swap all the rockers as well. They are a matched set as they wear together. Don't mix the order up either. They should swap directly in the same position. If that makes sense?

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The cam's are the same. However, if you swap the cam you really should swap all the rockers as well. They are a matched set as they wear together. Don't mix the order up either. They should swap directly in the same position. If that makes sense?

Makes perfect sense, thanks Craig. Would there be a more desirable cam for street use? I like it in the w58 but wouldn't mind a change. I'll already have it apart for valve stems and because the current cam is really rusty.

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I was surprised to find that out too...

I had the same cam in both my heads....

One is a w53, and the other is the 210 head.... and they both said u20 also...

The only other thing is you can look at the end of the cam shaft if someone had done a regrind most likely the info is etched on the end....

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First thing I would look at is valve size and intake port size, if the W53 head has small intake ports and smaller valves than the W58 head, then you are taking a step backwards as the W58 has large valves and large intake ports, what you may gain from the W53 closed chamber you will lose because the head cannot breath near as good.

Not all W58 heads are open chamber either, I have had 2 of them that were closed chamber, they are supposed to be rare, I also own a W53 open chamber head, so they exist also.

If the 210 head has a U20 cam in it, either that head was an SSS version, or someone else likely put it in it, be very careful when moving cams around, put the cam in first by itself and make sure it spins freely, if it doesn't spin freely fix that before continuing on, it sure would suck if it broke while you were driving down the road and took out all the valves that the pistons hit.

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It indeed has a U20 cam and the same size valves as the w58. The ports are definitely smaller though, so I'll get it ported first. I may even pick up a new cam, rockers, and valves for good measure. We'll see how the funds are after the head work.

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I guess I missed something here, why are we talking about L heads as this 720 at the start of this thread has a napZ engine?

What intake are you using on this L head, I ask because it does no good to port the intake ports on the head if the intake itself has small ports/runners also.

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It had a z24 stock, I built an lz22 with another block and w58 head and put it in last May. I have a 32/36 with a stock manifold but with the ported head I'm going to either run my cannon single sidedraft and get a weber 48, or hold out for a dual sidedraft intake and most likely get the 45mm throttle bodies and run megasquirt.

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OK, my LZ23 with dual SUs in my 521 work truck that weighs 3400lbs kicked the Z24's ass in another 521 I owned with a 32/36 Weber that weighed a lot less, I was not impressed with the Z24 engine, but maybe the carb was not adjusted right for the Z24, but it was only a couple months old.

The W58 head has large intake ports and large valves, it's hard to beat that, it's basically a 219 head if closed chambered, but with exhaust inserts, you would have to run the rpms up pretty high all the time to qualify needing a real 219 head.

What pistons did you use in your LZ22 block, if they were flat tops or had a very shallow dish you would be good with an open chambered W58 head.

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OK, my LZ23 with dual SUs in my 521 work truck that weighs 3400lbs kicked the Z24's ass in another 521 I owned with a 32/36 Weber that weighed a lot less, I was not impressed with the Z24 engine, but maybe the carb was not adjusted right for the Z24, but it was only a couple months old.

The W58 head has large intake ports and large valves, it's hard to beat that, it's basically a 219 head if closed chambered, but with exhaust inserts, you would have to run the rpms up pretty high all the time to qualify needing a real 219 head.

What pistons did you use in your LZ22 block, if they were flat tops or had a very shallow dish you would be good with an open chambered W58 head.

Yeah my lz22 pulls much harder than the z24 ever did, and also sounds better in my opinion. I am running stock z22 pistons, so they have a little dish to them. Its not that I'm not happy with the w58, I just acquired the w53 and want to take the build a different direction and step it up a bit by doing some head work and hopefully going efi. Here is what I'm thinking about using with the dual sidedraft intake. http://m.ebay.com/itm/272629239420

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Just added that to my ebay watch list too for future thoughts .. I was thinking something similar, i saw another one from fox injection, but it looked exactly like a weber 45 dcoe... but I think it was also twice as expensive..... I've heard of a few other ways too but I like that idea...

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