Snake pit - rhino built

[Rhino13]

If a white bunny is that worth it, I'll have to run with my clutch until I can afford that haha. Hadn't thought about the fuel pooling thing, but there's only one way to find out I guess. I'll definitely take the carb off once it's running before any serious driving happens.

I will document every part, it'll be a learning process for me so I'll be happy to share it.

 

I'm also getting these wheels, my dad is picking them up for me in Portland so I probably won't see them until Thanksgiving unless I want to drive 3 hours round trip for wheels...

[Rhino13]

So I mentioned I was going to upgrade to a Weber 38, but I've been doing some research and I may try out a holley 390 because of the intake shape. I'm just curious as I read that 1 and 2bbl carbs are testing with a 3psi vacuum and 4bbl are tested with a 1.5psi vacuum, which makes sense because they have more air flow, but would that make 390cfm way too much? Would putting smaller jets in help at all? Ideally it would fit together so each intake runner was sealed to each venturi.

[Jester]

 Ideally it would fit together so each intake runner was sealed to each venturi.

 

They don't work that way. They work similar to a Weber. The two front barrels feed as your primaries and the two rear barrels only kick in when you engage all four. 

I don't understand why you are trying to get  around EFI when the engine was meant to run it in the first place. Doing a carb swap on that engine is NOT going to be easier. With all the research your doing to figutre out what carb to run and how to run it, you could have plenty of links on how to wire in the EFI. There are so many people here that have done this already. Trust me, you will not be alone brotha! We're here for you.  :console:

[datzenmike]

Clutch upgrade - white bunny clutch.

 

Engine mounts - Get the metal that goes to the engine. Use the rubber that goes to the chassis.

 

Ka and Z trans are fully interchangeable. No mods necessary.

 

It has been mentioned that truck intake runners flow uphill and this could cause fuel pooling issues when used with a carb. I haven't ever checked this, but it's something to consider.

 

Otherwise, please document the crap out of this. The ka question has come up with some frequency here lately and it would be awesome to have something concrete to point to.

 

The KA engine will bolt to the 720 transmission, yes. Bolt pattern is identical. If swapping to the stronger FS5W71C from a KA the shifter may fit the hole if using a D21 5 speed, an S13/14 is much longer. All KA 5 speeds are longer than the 720 long 5 speed. The D21 is the closest maybe a couple of inches. I wouldn't just assume a longer transmission will fit the 720 driveshaft. Better check.

 

 

D21 trans top. S13/14 below.

[Rhino13]

Yeah after reading more I realized they had the vacuum secondaries which wouldn't work, so a Weber 38 will do just fine. I'm not really doing that much work to get it going, all it needs is new holes for the distributor pedestal, the oil drive from an L series for the ka's oil pump, and a carb adapter. That sounds way easier than adapting a wiring harness and having to spend lots of $$$ on a box from blackmarkit, and most likely new injectors, maf, and other sensors.

 

I plan on using the 720 trans, I just want to get a single piece driveline so I don't have to deal with a carrier. My only concern would be a single piece hitting the cross member that the carrier sits on, but the truck is dropped 3 inches in the rear, most likely going to 4 inches with the new wheels, so I'm hoping that will clear? Haven't really seen anyone with a 720 do a single piece.

[datzenmike]

Short wheelbase 720s were one piece driveshafts I believe. King cab and long beds were two piece.

 

The carrier isn't much of a problem. Only one guy on here has had a confirmed bad bearing. The simple fact is that they (almost) never fail as they transmit no power but only allow the support to hold the driveshaft. It's the rubber isolater that rots away and the support is lost and the driveshaft de-stabilizes. I fixed mine by wrapping a 1" strip of rubber around the driveshaft at the bearing to build it up and clamped it down. Worked so well I never fixed it.

[Rhino13]

Mine is brand new as of a few months ago because the bushing had holes in it and the bearing was sticky in a few spots, I just figured a single piece would be better but it would have to wait anyway so I'm glad to hear it's fine to run with. I have a slight shake half way through 3rd gears range, I was thinking it was a u joint but I'm pretty certain I changed both of them when I did the carrier. What else could be causing that?

[Draker]

If your tires are balanced, and your suspension is tight.. The drive shaft could be out of balance now.

[Rhino13]

Would it shake if it was at too much of an angle? It's on 3 inch blocks with no shims, but it looks pretty damn straight just looking at it. I did notice the driveshaft had a few dings in it when I changed the carrier, but it just started doing the shaking a few weeks ago. Tires are balanced as far as I know, but I'll see how it feels with the new wheels, that'd be cool if that's all it was.

[Draker]

Yes 100% could be the angle too. There is a good gif to show this but I'm on my phone at the moment.

[datzenmike]

If your tires are balanced, and your suspension is tight.. The drive shaft could be out of balance now.

 

 

Would it shake if it was at too much of an angle? It's on 3 inch blocks with no shims, but it looks pretty damn straight just looking at it. I did notice the driveshaft had a few dings in it when I changed the carrier, but it just started doing the shaking a few weeks ago. Tires are balanced as far as I know, but I'll see how it feels with the new wheels, that'd be cool if that's all it was.

 

Driveshaft and tire out of balance manifests at certain highway speeds. If half way through 3rd was say 35mph then you can also do this speed in 4th and 5th, maybe even in 2nd? It can't know what gear you are in. Next time it vibrates place in the next gear and it should still be there.

[Rhino13]

My speedo is off, but I'd say roughly 30-35 in 3rd. If I shift into 4th when it starts, it doesn't shake. I've had a u joint do something similar to this, I just don't see how one of them could have gone bad this fast.

[Draker]

If the angle is bad, it can kill u joints quick.

[Jester]

Try spacing your Carrier up a couple inches and see if it goes away. 

[Charlie69]

Use a 3/4" spacer under your carrier bearing for a 3" rear drop.  1" for a 4" drop.  See if this smooths out your truck.

[datzenmike]

If the angle is bad, it can kill u joints quick.

 

Between any two U joints, the angle in, must equal the angle out...

 

 

 

The more one is out, the more the vibration.

[Rhino13]

Use a 3/4" spacer under your carrier bearing for a 3" rear drop. 1" for a 4" drop. See if this smooths out your truck.

Do you think a 1 inch square tubing would work?

 

Looking under the truck it actually looks very straight, but if you get up under so you can see it from the side it's definitely off a bit. Thanks for the info everyone!

 

So my dad scored the tires for $80 (got me a good deal!) but the rears are 15x10's and the fronts are 15x8. I'm not sure on the offset, but I'm fine with the rears being wider, I'm just thinking it will look silly without flares. Anyone have any idea on flares that'll work on a 720 other than stock 4x4 flares? I'm not a big fan of the stock ones.

[Lockleaf]

There isn't much info on other flares. There just aren't enough guys who have tried stuff that I can find. You can always go for zg style flares or 80s Toyota truck flares would likely work with minimal modification. I have a set of r50 pathfinder flares that I plan to test fit on my truck soon, but they are two piece and will likely need fiberglassing into one piece to make them look good.

 

 

You can see they have a body piece and bumper piece. They are just over 2 inches wide.

[Rhino13]

I was thinking zg style like this truck http://www.usedvictoria.com/ReportSelectUsedAdPhoto2?used_ad_id=22409424&position=1&hb=6

 

The ones they used on that truck dont fit the wheel wells all that great if you look at the side picture. I'll probably just have to order some and hope for the best!

[Rhino13]

Got my ka! I'll post better pictures tomorrow when I get it on the stand and start tearing it down.

 

Also got the L series distributor and L series oil pump drive.

[bananahamuck]

I thought Uber-guber said he was selling you that 240 sx engine,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, maybe that was someone else.

[Rhino13]

That was the plan until Al offered me one locally, couldn't pass it up. Depending on how long he has it for I might still pick it up if I get my hands on a cheap 620 or 521.

[bananahamuck]

[datzenmike]

L series oil pump internals won't work in the KA oil pump. Keep and use the KA oil pump complete.

[Rhino13]

I thought I should be able to use the ka pump as it is since people swap them on to L and Z motors, I've just been told by 2 different people that I need to put the oil pump drive from an L series into the ka pump so I got the part.

Glad to know that won't need changing, thanks datzenmike